Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Ready to throw in the towel with all this electronic crap!
Geezer914
post Jun 22 2010, 02:23 PM
Post #1


Geezer914
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,421
Joined: 18-March 09
From: Salem, NJ
Member No.: 10,179
Region Association: North East States



1975 1.8 L jet fuel injection. Pulled the engine to replace the engine head temp sensor. Put the engine back in and double checked the wires and vaccum lines. The engine cranked but no fuel. The fuel pump runs when you turn the key. I checked the wires and lines again. Tried it a few times and no luck. I put a battery tender on the battery overnight. The next morning I look at the charger and the charge light is still red. I pulled the battery and put the battery tender on the battery and the green light came on within a couple of hours. Put the battery back in to run more tests on the fuel issue and now the starter won't crank. I get nothing. The dash lights come on when I turn the key. This is a new rebuilt Bosch starter from NAPA. What did I screw up now???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Cupomeat
post Jun 22 2010, 02:51 PM
Post #2


missing my NY 914 in VA
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,336
Joined: 26-November 07
From: Oakton VA
Member No.: 8,376
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Check you ignition switch.

The fuel pump should not run with the Key on the "on" position, unless air is sucking through the flapper box, or your wiring is wrong.

Also, check the white wire at the back of the relay board in the engine compartment. If you have it on one of the wrong terminals (of 4) it will cause the fuel pump to always run, and 2 will result in the car not starting at all. There is only one correct terminal.

I'll see if I can dig up more to help you, in a specific manner.

Don't give up, you are close. Electrical issues are annoying but fixable!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JimmyG
post Jun 22 2010, 04:00 PM
Post #3


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 146
Joined: 10-September 04
From: Birmingham, AL
Member No.: 2,730
Region Association: South East States



Don't get too discouraged. The L jet is not a bad set-up. It has been a while since I have fooled with one but don't forget about the double relay attached to the battery tray support. It has given me trouble in the past and I would try another in my junk pile. I defer to the more experienced for the explanation,but if memory still serves this could also be the culprit. The ignition switch that Eric said could also be why the starter wants to be a problem. Have seen this give starter problems also.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
kerensky
post Jun 22 2010, 04:07 PM
Post #4


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 531
Joined: 1-February 06
From: Norman, OK
Member No.: 5,508
Region Association: Southwest Region



My standard advice when people talk about charging their battery - it's best to disconnect the battery cables when charging. The Owner's Manual gives you this sage advice - I did not heed that advice in my younger days, which resulted in two failed ECUs in about 6 weeks' time.

Note that this doesn't hold for many cars - most are just happy as clams to have you charge their batteries while they're hooked up. Why is the 914 different? :shrug:
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Drums66
post Jun 22 2010, 04:07 PM
Post #5


914 Rudiments
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,321
Joined: 15-January 03
From: Coronado,Cali
Member No.: 151
Region Association: Southwest Region



QUOTE(JimmyG @ Jun 22 2010, 03:00 PM) *

Don't get too discouraged. The L jet is not a bad set-up. It has been a while since I have fooled with one but don't forget about the double relay attached to the battery tray support. It has given me trouble in the past and I would try another in my junk pile. I defer to the more experienced for the explanation,but if memory still serves this could also be the culprit. The ignition switch that Eric said could also be why the starter wants to be a problem. Have seen this give starter problems also.


.....And also give the resistor pack a look. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jim_hoyland
post Jun 22 2010, 04:38 PM
Post #6


Get that VIN ?
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,302
Joined: 1-May 03
From: Sunset Beach, CA
Member No.: 643
Region Association: Southern California



and check the yellow wire...


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Tom_T
post Jun 22 2010, 05:12 PM
Post #7


TMI....
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 8,318
Joined: 19-March 09
From: Orange, CA
Member No.: 10,181
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(kerensky @ Jun 22 2010, 03:07 PM) *

My standard advice when people talk about charging their battery - it's best to disconnect the battery cables when charging. The Owner's Manual gives you this sage advice - I did not heed that advice in my younger days, which resulted in two failed ECUs in about 6 weeks' time.

Note that this doesn't hold for many cars - most are just happy as clams to have you charge their batteries while they're hooked up. Why is the 914 different? :shrug:


My `85 BMW 325e also advises to disconnect ground or remove the fuse to the on-board computer while jumping or charging.

It is SOP - so you don't fry the electronic chips in the "new" electronics & EFI's ECU, since we can't have surge protectors in our 914s' electrical systems & the chargers can pump a huge line surge maginfied by the charger.

The 914's & 411/412's were the first EFI cars back then with an IBM designed "black box" ECU, so that was why they were "different".

Back to the question at hand ...
... also check the starter wiring again, & verify that NAPA gave you the correct starter part no. - & if not- back it goes, as well as if it's still "no joy" after you sort out the other battery issues noted above. That's why they offer a reman/rebuild warranty on their parts, & IMHO only use the Bosch reman/rebuilt ones cuz they have a better warranty history due to their reputation they want to protect.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Geezer914
post Jun 22 2010, 08:02 PM
Post #8


Geezer914
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,421
Joined: 18-March 09
From: Salem, NJ
Member No.: 10,179
Region Association: North East States



The car started and ran when I put in the engine the first time. It would not re start after it warmed up so I was told to replace the head temp sensor. That is why I had to pull the motor. So everything worked before.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ClayPerrine
post Jun 23 2010, 05:50 AM
Post #9


Life's been good to me so far.....
***************

Group: Admin
Posts: 15,474
Joined: 11-September 03
From: Hurst, TX.
Member No.: 1,143
Region Association: NineFourteenerVille



Ok.. start by checking the plug at the relay board. The yellow wire attaches to one of the two rear most connections on the 4 pin connector. It doesn't matter which one, they are both connected together.

Second, Turn the key on, and open the air flow meter flap with your finger. The fuel pump should run.

Third, disconnect the yellow wire from the starter, and turn the key to the start position. The fuel pump should run.

Fourth, Check the white wire on the coil. It should hook to the negative side of the coil (same side as the green points lead). If it is wrong, the injectors won't fire.

Fifth, get a noid light from your FLAPS. It is a test light for the injectors (Looks like a nipple with two pins on the back). Plug it into an injector and crank the car. It should flash.

Sixth. Check the wire to the cylinder head temp sensor, located at the #3 cylinder. If it is disconnected, the car won't start, it will just flood. An open circuit on that tells the computer that it is 40 below zero, so we need more fuel.

And lastly, check the ignition system. Are you getting spark to the plugs?



On the starter, check to see that they yellow wire has not fallen off the spade connector, and that it is on the correct spade connector.

And some of the early 75s had a relay under the passenger seat that was designed to keep the starter from working if the seat belt was not buckled up. I suggest checking for it and bypassing it if it has one.



Let me know what you find.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JimmyG
post Jun 23 2010, 06:44 PM
Post #10


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 146
Joined: 10-September 04
From: Birmingham, AL
Member No.: 2,730
Region Association: South East States



That's really great help for him Clay. You sure know your stuff! Glad that you protecting another L jet from going to carbs! I thought all the 75's had done away with the logic relay.That is really important stuff for troubleshooting the starter problem.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 20th May 2024 - 01:42 AM