1975 1.8 L jet fuel injection. Pulled the engine to replace the engine head temp sensor. Put the engine back in and double checked the wires and vaccum lines. The engine cranked but no fuel. The fuel pump runs when you turn the key. I checked the wires and lines again. Tried it a few times and no luck. I put a battery tender on the battery overnight. The next morning I look at the charger and the charge light is still red. I pulled the battery and put the battery tender on the battery and the green light came on within a couple of hours. Put the battery back in to run more tests on the fuel issue and now the starter won't crank. I get nothing. The dash lights come on when I turn the key. This is a new rebuilt Bosch starter from NAPA. What did I screw up now????

Check you ignition switch.

The fuel pump should not run with the Key on the "on" position, unless air is sucking through the flapper box, or your wiring is wrong.

Also, check the white wire at the back of the relay board in the engine compartment. If you have it on one of the wrong terminals (of 4) it will cause the fuel pump to always run, and 2 will result in the car not starting at all. There is only one correct terminal.

I'll see if I can dig up more to help you, in a specific manner.

Don't give up, you are close. Electrical issues are annoying but fixable!

Don't get too discouraged. The L jet is not a bad set-up. It has been a while since I have fooled with one but don't forget about the double relay attached to the battery tray support. It has given me trouble in the past and I would try another in my junk pile. I defer to the more experienced for the explanation,but if memory still serves this could also be the culprit. The ignition switch that Eric said could also be why the starter wants to be a problem. Have seen this give starter problems also.

My standard advice when people talk about charging their battery - it's best to disconnect the battery cables when charging. The Owner's Manual gives you this sage advice - I did not heed that advice in my younger days, which resulted in two failed ECUs in about 6 weeks' time.

Note that this doesn't hold for many cars - most are just happy as clams to have you charge their batteries while they're hooked up. Why is the 914 different? :shrug:

.....And also give the resistor pack a look.

and check the yellow wire...

My `85 BMW 325e also advises to disconnect ground or remove the fuse to the on-board computer while jumping or charging.

It is SOP - so you don't fry the electronic chips in the "new" electronics & EFI's ECU, since we can't have surge protectors in our 914s' electrical systems & the chargers can pump a huge line surge maginfied by the charger.

The 914's & 411/412's were the first EFI cars back then with an IBM designed "black box" ECU, so that was why they were "different".

Back to the question at hand ...
... also check the starter wiring again, & verify that NAPA gave you the correct starter part no. - & if not- back it goes, as well as if it's still "no joy" after you sort out the other battery issues noted above. That's why they offer a reman/rebuild warranty on their parts, & IMHO only use the Bosch reman/rebuilt ones cuz they have a better warranty history due to their reputation they want to protect.

The car started and ran when I put in the engine the first time. It would not re start after it warmed up so I was told to replace the head temp sensor. That is why I had to pull the motor. So everything worked before.

Ok.. start by checking the plug at the relay board. The yellow wire attaches to one of the two rear most connections on the 4 pin connector. It doesn't matter which one, they are both connected together.

Second, Turn the key on, and open the air flow meter flap with your finger. The fuel pump should run.

Third, disconnect the yellow wire from the starter, and turn the key to the start position. The fuel pump should run.

Fourth, Check the white wire on the coil. It should hook to the negative side of the coil (same side as the green points lead). If it is wrong, the injectors won't fire.

Fifth, get a noid light from your FLAPS. It is a test light for the injectors (Looks like a nipple with two pins on the back). Plug it into an injector and crank the car. It should flash.

Sixth. Check the wire to the cylinder head temp sensor, located at the #3 cylinder. If it is disconnected, the car won't start, it will just flood. An open circuit on that tells the computer that it is 40 below zero, so we need more fuel.

And lastly, check the ignition system. Are you getting spark to the plugs?



On the starter, check to see that they yellow wire has not fallen off the spade connector, and that it is on the correct spade connector.

And some of the early 75s had a relay under the passenger seat that was designed to keep the starter from working if the seat belt was not buckled up. I suggest checking for it and bypassing it if it has one.



Let me know what you find.

That's really great help for him Clay. You sure know your stuff! Glad that you protecting another L jet from going to carbs! I thought all the 75's had done away with the logic relay.That is really important stuff for troubleshooting the starter problem.