front caliper re build Options

[BigDBass]

eric shea in UTAH? got an e mail or contact number, thanks

Can PM him through his post a couple above yours, or get to his website via the link in his sig: www.pmbperformance.com

By the way, I agree, just send in your cores and get some of his rebuilts. That was my first 914 parts purchase and project after I got my car! Eric rocks.

[Eric_Shea]

Thanks Dan!

how do i block the bleeder valve or the bleeder valve hole to prevent the pressurized air from escaping? should this be this difficult or am i just encountering newbie-itis?

Ummm... do I have to be the one to say "put a bleeder valve in it"? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[underthetire]

Thanks Dan!

how do i block the bleeder valve or the bleeder valve hole to prevent the pressurized air from escaping? should this be this difficult or am i just encountering newbie-itis?

Ummm... do I have to be the one to say "put a bleeder valve in it"? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Yes, I wasn't gonna do it. I figured if he had to ask that question I didn't want to be in front of that car at a stop light. Thats why your the Masterbraker (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[biggy72]

I got two of the calipers completely apart tonight with the grease gun method. Worked really well.

On the other front caliper One piston popped out easily, the other slid most of the way out and then I can't get it to budge the last little bit for anything. On the other rear caliper the adjusters were messed with and they both seem to be broken. I can't get the lock nut off because the thread on the screw is all stripped off and the adjuster on the other side just spins.

[Eric_Shea]

the other slid most of the way out and then I can't get it to budge the last little bit for anything

It is cocked in the bore (all you "Juvies" are now free to flail away on that one). You need to take a close look at it to determine which way it's angled, then use a c-clamp to snap down the high side. I say "snap" because it will kinda "pop" or "snap" when it goes back into alignment. Do that and try again.

I can't get the lock nut off because the thread on the screw is all stripped off and the adjuster on the other side just spins.

OK... couple of options here:

1. Use a high speed wrench and a 4mm hex to power those things out. Remember - Counter Clockwise. They should move right out with speed.

2. (You'll probably have to do this anyway) Take a Dremel and a Carbide Cut-Off Wheel and cut "straight down" through the "center" of the adjuster and 13mm hex. Make sure you're on center so the cut-off wheel doesn't score your caliper. You can ease over to one side or the other to get a decent slice on the 13mm nut. Make sure you do not go through to the caliper surface or that adjuster bore. Then, when you're almost through, finish it off with a sharp cold chisel. Remove the pieces of the nut and push the adjuster through. I can replace both those parts for $20.00 if you go that route.

3. If the threads aren't too chewed up, try this method. Put a 13mm socket in a pair of vise grips and use a 4mm hex through the opening to "hold" the adjuster shaft. Use the hex to just hold and try to turn with the socket set-up. You may be able to spin the 13mm nut up and correct the threads as you go. If not, you'll strip the 4mm hex. Once that happens, go back to #2.

[solo1]

Thanks for the digs about the bleeder valve. D'oh!!
you guys friggin rock got the pistons out cleaned, re-brake fluid, replace inner seal split the halves to get the pistons back in and correctly alligned am working n the outer seal which i was told in a PIA the first time but ill get it. gonna clean the caliper up a bit as it is really unnattractive. have gone back and forth with eric in utah the rear doesnt look like something i want to tackle so im going to pull them and send to eric to do the re build etc. cant begin to thank you guys enough. with this repair am i no longer a newbie/virgin?

[Eric_Shea]

am i no longer a newbie/virgin?

Once we do your rear you will no longer be a virgin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

(sorry... couldn't pass that one up)

[underthetire]

Ouch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)

[solo1]

Outstanding!!!

[biggy72]

WOOO!!! finally got all of the pistons out.

But I do have a couple of problems with the one rear caliper:

1. The outter adjuster had a couple threads pulled off and a c clip was used to hold the jam nut in place.

2. The inner adjuster doesn't move the piston at all, but after spinning it for a little bit and then hitting the parking brake it does push out the piston. When I got close to having the piston out the adjuster gear that you put the 4mm hex in fell out.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? Also do you end up covered head to toe in grease every day? I now completely respect what you do.

[bigkensteele]

Guys I need help. I took the front left caliper off about a week ago to loosen it up as it was sticking, replaced pads. Drove the car it still got hot so the caliper is sticking. Rebuild kits arrived for all four corners. took same caliper off, pads out. Now what? if any one can give me or direct me to, a step by step way of re doing this I would really be grateful. Assume Im a "special needs" brake mechanic. I have always had some concern about brakes cause it has to be done right. I keep staring at the caliper thinking this cant be that tough have one side piston secured with a C clamp and block. Thats as far as Ive gotten. Thinking I may be in too deep and am considering taking them to a shop and having them to the re build with the fresh parts.

As he said be careful when blowing the pistons out. Make sure no body parts are in the way as it will hurt. What part of Cincy you from? There's not too many teeners around here.

Southeast is the only place to live if you are a teener... That is common knowledge, an coincidentally most convenient for me...

[Eric_Shea]

But I do have a couple of problems with the one rear caliper:

1. The outter adjuster had a couple threads pulled off and a c clip was used to hold the jam nut in place.

2. The inner adjuster doesn't move the piston at all, but after spinning it for a little bit and then hitting the parking brake it does push out the piston. When I got close to having the piston out the adjuster gear that you put the 4mm hex in fell out.

1. The outer adjuster is supposed to have a c-clip holding the lock nut in place. You need to take it off prior to removal of the nut otherwise you'll muck up those threads. We have replacement adjusters.

2. The inner adjuster gear is loose in the cavity and comes out. This is not a problem. If you're close to having the piston out... the adjuster will lose it's affect as the piston has come off the adjuster. If you then pull the handbrake arm, the adjuster will move in the bore and come in contact with the piston again pushing it slightly. At this point it's time to remove the piston manually.

Any ideas on what could be wrong?

So... based upon all of this, it doesn't sound like anything is wrong other than a buggered up outer adjuster.

Also do you end up covered head to toe in grease every day? I now completely respect what you do.

Cody does! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Latex gloves and coveralls help... actually, what work's best is a USPS Flat Rate Box and $249.00 bucks.

[biggy72]

Ok I guess my problem was just that my other rear caliper didn't have this c clip in place. I thought the clip was a piece of pulled out thread, until I pushed it out of the way. This adjuster appears to be in ok shape since I didn't beat on it too much.

Also on the rear caliper the inner adjuster pushed the piston out. I couldn't get the other caliper to do it without pushing on the parking brake. I don't think I did anything different between the two calipers, but I may have.

And if I could afford it I would have sent them to you, but we just bought a house and that tends to get all of the extra money. I set a $500 limit on getting back on the road and that includes relocating the fuel pump and running new fuel lines. I think I will probably end up pretty close to that amount, but probably a little over.

[Ericv1]

Guys I need help. I took the front left caliper off about a week ago to loosen it up as it was sticking, replaced pads. Drove the car it still got hot so the caliper is sticking. Rebuild kits arrived for all four corners. took same caliper off, pads out. Now what? if any one can give me or direct me to, a step by step way of re doing this I would really be grateful. Assume Im a "special needs" brake mechanic. I have always had some concern about brakes cause it has to be done right. I keep staring at the caliper thinking this cant be that tough have one side piston secured with a C clamp and block. Thats as far as Ive gotten. Thinking I may be in too deep and am considering taking them to a shop and having them to the re build with the fresh parts.

As he said be careful when blowing the pistons out. Make sure no body parts are in the way as it will hurt. What part of Cincy you from? There's not too many teeners around here.

Southeast is the only place to live if you are a teener... That is common knowledge, an coincidentally most convenient for me...

How far east Big Ken?

[solo1]

am puting the calipers back together,fronts. when i took them out neither side had the piston retaining plate. the kit came with and eric says to use them. was very careful to make accurate markings on the housing to insure the pistons went back at the same angle they were at. however the retaining plates look as though they fit into the deep space on the front of the piston. if they werent thee the first itme do i need to use them? if thats the case then the guy that rebuilt them was incorrect in his angle and i will need to blow out the pistons and re assemble using the reataining plate. thoughts ?

[Eric_Shea]

Blow them out and do it right. If the plates don't match them... they're in wrong. What year is your car?

If it's a late model car, do this:

1. Blow the pistons back out.
2. Paint "brake caliper" assembly lube on the backside of the dust seal.
3. Install the piston positioners. Make sure the center prongs are positioned properly. To do this, install the prong closest to the angle itself, first. Then push the remaing prongs down.
4. Starting with your two inside caliper 1/2's - look at the bleeder openings. Each caliper should have a round indent on one of the bleeders that I like to use as the "top". That is the direction of rotor travel, from that top. Make sure your positioning plates angle those pistons so the angle is facing the oncoming rotor.
5. Press the pistons/dust covers and positioning plates into the caliper using a steel plate. This will press the internal metal ring in the seal onto the flange on the caliper (this is why you needed the assembly lube).
6. Repeat the proper angle and piston installation proc. for the outside 1/2's
7. Bolt them back together using the proper piston angles and torque in the proper sequence to 17 ftlbs.

If it's an early model car you won't have:

a ) Dual bleeders.
b ) Integrated seal in the dust clip.
c ) Piston positioners in the kit (if you have single bleeder calipers and you received positioners, you probably got the wrong kit).

If you have early calipers with no positioner clips simply draw an imaginary line down the center of the pad cavity and place the bottom notch of the piston recess along this line. This will give you a 20 degree angle every time.

(I need to get paid by the word) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[solo1]

got it thanks eric. talked with underthetire yesterday talked me thru it. next idiotic question the tie rod...mine is in good shape howevr at the joint closest to rotor there is a castlenut with cotter pin there is a rubber seal/gasket/cover mine is shot seems everyone wnats to sell the whole tie rod know we=here i s= can get this seal?

[Ericv1]

got it thanks eric. talked with underthetire yesterday talked me thru it. next idiotic question the tie rod...mine is in good shape howevr at the joint closest to rotor there is a castlenut with cotter pin there is a rubber seal/gasket/cover mine is shot seems everyone wnats to sell the whole tie rod know we=here i s= can get this seal?

George at Auto Atlanta might be able to get that seal. He has a bunch of parts most people wouldn't even think of.

[solo1]

no luck finding this idiotic tie rod end dust boot. considering the age of the car is it worth it just to replace the tie rod end? how do i make sure that it is scewed back in to the correct depth or will it self set when it is in far enough?

[solo1]

ok, okay im back with a brake question. when you take the calipers apart then get ready to re-assemble a couple of pages out there are talking about a brake rebuild grease, or something. The question begs, should something be put on the faces of the split calipers before re-assembling them? lube the piston with brake fluid only?