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> on the ground!, 72 - making slow progress -new pics
raw1298
post Jun 28 2010, 03:31 PM
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I bought this as a stripped down rolling chassis. The sller put wheels on it to get it on the trailer. That was 4 long years ago. I also had a son at the same time so working on the car has been a second priority. Now the engine is in and the brakes are on, I should be able to get some work done more quickly. I plan on firing this up within the next couple of weeks and taking on a drve by the end of July. I got the 3m adhesive today to get the fenders bonded on and then the fun stuff begins. Hope to get it completed in time for next years West Coast Ramble. Thanks to the support and motivation of the 914World. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

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raw1298
post Jul 8 2010, 05:21 PM
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Yes Scotty! That is the color! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) You would not happen to know the #'s for that would ya? It would be cool to photo shop that to see what it could look like.
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Lennies914
post Jul 8 2010, 07:28 PM
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I agree, that color would look sharp on your car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Keep us up to date!
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scotty b
post Jul 9 2010, 03:03 PM
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QUOTE(raw1298 @ Jul 8 2010, 03:21 PM) *

Yes Scotty! That is the color! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) You would not happen to know the #'s for that would ya? It would be cool to photo shop that to see what it could look like.



Not off hand, but a quick trip to the paint supplier ( or Scion dealer ) could tell you. They have chip books broken down by manufacturer and by year for paint colors. I'll check and see if I have any books new enough for Scions to be in.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) FWIW try p.m. to Todd Enlund and kiss his ass a little. Offer him some cookies, beef (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) and beer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) . He might do that photoshop for ya (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)
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raw1298
post Jul 11 2010, 05:42 PM
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wooohooo!!!! After some help finding a thread from Andy the car is running!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) Now we can start on the shift linkage. I still need to fine tune and adjust the carbs, But it is real close to where it should be. Starts on the first try every time! My wife was even amazed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)
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raw1298
post Jul 12 2010, 06:10 AM
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QUOTE(charliew @ Jul 8 2010, 02:28 PM) *

Dang it's amazing how many different 17 wheels sizes there are for boxters. My boxter wheels were sold to me by a dealer as winter wheels. They are 7x17 et 55 with 205-50-17 and 8.5x17 et50 with 255-40-17. what thickness spacers did you use? what width are the flares?


These are Italian made( do not say Porsche anywhere) 7.5x17 et? and 9x17 et 47. I am using the AA wheel adapters which are 1" thick. The flares are the ones from QRS Fiberglass in Hemet, Ca.. They are supposed to be made for 7" and 9" wheels, but I could easily squeeze 8's up front and 10's in the rear with the right offset.
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raw1298
post Oct 3 2010, 09:53 AM
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Ok, more progress after regress. The mentioned defective throttle cable is being replaced today. The biggest setback was the rear paasenger caliper aftersitting too long seized. I am glad I double checked these things before my first drive around the block. I now have the rear calipers rebuilt and have read the thread on how to adjust them. I was unclear on which direction to turn the adjusters to move the pistons. I know the inner one is the opposite of the outer. To extend the piston out, do I turn the adjuster clock wise or counter clockwise (on the outer piston)??
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raw1298
post Oct 3 2010, 04:07 PM
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I figured it out on my own. The outer you turn counter clockwise and the inner is turned clockwise. seems too simple once you do it. The Haynes manuel did not specify turning direction either.?.
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nsr-jamie
post Oct 3 2010, 08:45 PM
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Looking good, that would be nice to see the car done in the same as the picture of the bus.
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raw1298
post Oct 9 2010, 06:05 PM
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After a final check this past week. The car was driven under its own power for the first time in over 11 years. Since there are no lights or seat belts, among many other parts still missing, I only drove it out of the garage and down to the street and back in the garage. I did this several times (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . What an awsome feeling! And it feels real smooth. I can't wait to get it ready for the real drive. Now it is on to body work.


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raw1298
post Dec 13 2010, 09:57 AM
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I decided I would get some of the pics up of the progress I have made the past few weeks. I will do a more detailed "how to" later and cover the steps better. Not hard to do if you follow instruction well. Solid as a rock!!! Should be easy to fill gaps. Last pic is after the edges were smoothed out. Next will be the kitty hair filler.


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raw1298
post Dec 13 2010, 10:03 AM
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Couple of different angles. It takes about a tube of adhesive per flare. I left a huge area in front and in rear of opening to bond to. You could use less if you cut down flare more than I did.


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raw1298
post Dec 13 2010, 11:36 AM
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The drivers side before taking off excess glue. Fronts are next!!


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raw1298
post Dec 13 2010, 06:22 PM
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Just a couple more angles. The flares from QRS seem to fit well. It made the final bonding easier by spending many hours getting the fitting correct. I also took everything down to bare metal and then cleaned all parts with a degreaser and wax remover. A thin layer of adhesive to cover bonding area on both surfaces making sure to cover completely. Then used self tapping screws to secure. I let each flare sit a minimum 24 hours before removing screws.


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raw1298
post Dec 29 2010, 04:43 PM
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Since it has been raining I decided to test fit the rear bumper I have. The question I have for those of you with fiberglass bumpers, is this supposed to be notched out to fit the area below the tail lights? It has the notch to fit the side, but the metal has two notches.


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raw1298
post Dec 29 2010, 05:49 PM
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I guess I should say that I will not be bonding this on. I also will be glassing the outer pieces to match the flares. It looks like I need to trim the entire top edge about 3/8" to get a better fit??


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raw1298
post Feb 9 2011, 11:15 AM
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Had some nice weather and a few spare hours so I made a little progress. The kitty hair is great stuff! It applied easily and was easy to sand. The final thickness is about an eighth inch.


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charliew
post Feb 9 2011, 11:31 AM
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I don't use kitty hair for the final skim coat because it is so porous. Rage goes on a lot smoother and doesn't show as much shrinkage over time as the strands in the kittyhair. Shrinkage is your main enemy on fg work. It is good stuff though and is waterproof they say.
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raw1298
post Feb 9 2011, 11:43 AM
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I am using a final coat of a thin putty, cant remember the name, but it is a 3m product. I will post more pics after final coat of the glaze, putty, whatever it is called.
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nathansnathan
post Feb 9 2011, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Jul 8 2010, 02:58 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) The more I think about it that blue would look pretty damn good on your car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Someone needs to photoshop that for you

That color on the bus is dove blue (hovering over the image, the filename comes up confirming this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ). The scion seems a bit more on the green side. It looks more along the lines of Neptune blue, which is more a 70's bay window color than the dove split color. They do look very much the same, Neptune is less saturated and more aqua.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i141.photobucket.com-11782-1297273447.1.jpg)

edit, forgot to post the valuable link to the codes
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/colorstype2.php
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charliew
post Feb 9 2011, 11:57 AM
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Don't try to use the scratch filler to replace a good regular filler though. Most of the scratch fillers are really thick paint and if the product is put in too deep of a spot it will shrink later.
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