 Dropping the front end, Any suggestions |
|
|
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
|
| xperu |
 Jul 5 2010, 12:05 PM
Post
#1
|
|
TEXAS  Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 13-June 06 From: League City Texas Member No.: 6,213 Region Association: None 
 |
I am planning on dropping the front od my 74 1"; can anyone give me a step by step on how to do it? Do I need to install a bump steer if I lower 1"? Thanks in advance. Mike
|
   |
 
|
  |
Replies(1 - 9)
| Spoke |
Jul 5 2010, 12:46 PM
Post
#2
|
|
Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,978 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None
|
It's pretty easy.
1) Identify a place on the chassis right behind the front wheels to make your ride height measurement. Do this on a flat surface. 2) Jack each side up and adjust the ride height with the torsion bar adjusters at the end of the torsion bars just behind the front wheels. Make an adjustment lower the car and drive it at least 1 block to get the car to settle, then measure chassis height on the same flat surface as in 1). 3) Once ride height is set, you will have to have front end alignment done as the toe will be off. Whether you need a bump-steer kit is up to you. Ideally the tie rods should connect to the rack and be parallel with the steering rack. I used a couple of large washers under the rack instead of the bump steer kit. |
|
|
|
| xperu |
Jul 5 2010, 12:53 PM
Post
#3
|
|
TEXAS Group: Members Posts: 597 Joined: 13-June 06 From: League City Texas Member No.: 6,213 Region Association: None
|
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jul 5 2010, 01:46 PM)  It's pretty easy. 1) Identify a place on the chassis right behind the front wheels to make your ride height measurement. Do this on a flat surface. 2) Jack each side up and adjust the ride height with the torsion bar adjusters at the end of the torsion bars just behind the front wheels. Make an adjustment lower the car and drive it at least 1 block to get the car to settle, then measure chassis height on the same flat surface as in 1). 3) Once ride height is set, you will have to have front end alignment done as the toe will be off. Whether you need a bump-steer kit is up to you. Ideally the tie rods should connect to the rack and be parallel with the steering rack. I used a couple of large washers under the rack instead of the bump steer kit. OK Thanks Jerry, I'll give it a go. Mike |
|
|
|
| SirAndy |
Jul 5 2010, 01:01 PM
Post
#4
|
|
Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,644 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
QUOTE(xperu @ Jul 5 2010, 11:05 AM) can anyone give me a step by step on how to do it? You need: 11mm wrench. No need to jack the car up, just get your arm under there to reach the 11mm adjuster bolts. One on each side. A ratchet with a 11mm nut is all you need. Tighten the bolt to raise the car, loosen the bolt to lower the car. If it's stock ride height right now, you might be able to get away without a bump steer kit. I don't like the spacers much anyways. You should consider getting an alignment afterward. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy |
 |
|
| Tom_T |
Jul 5 2010, 01:25 PM
Post
#5
|
|
TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
|
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
1/2" - 1" below stock ht. doesn't require spacers or bump steer kit (set of bolts & spacers basically which one can easily & more cheaply duplicate btw), but do get a realignment so you don't abnormally wear out your tires & get less steering traction with it "out" afterwords. 1/2" - 1" gets it almost 50:50 wt. dist. & really improves the steering response & handling, so I don't know why they didn't just send them from the factory like that, except that the front clearance is less (so watch those pot holes, wheel bumpers, rolled curbs & driveway aprons, etc.!) PS - if your alignment shop knows Porsches, it shouldn't cost you anything more to have them just adjust it for you on the alignment rack (or before) then shoot the wheels for true up! |
|
|
|
| URY914 |
Jul 5 2010, 01:29 PM
Post
#6
|
|
I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 120,662 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
I would soak the bolts with PB Blaster first. They get pretty rusty and dirty under there. It helps loosen them up.
|
|
|
|
| 914rat |
Jul 5 2010, 01:43 PM
Post
#7
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 279 Joined: 3-July 06 From: Maryland Member No.: 6,362 |
Good info I'll try to lower mine next weekend.
|
|
|
|
| charliew |
Jul 5 2010, 04:30 PM
Post
#8
|
|
Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
Somehow It didn't occur to me that the front to rear weight balance would change with a lowered front adjustment.
|
|
|
|
| Rob-O 1167 |
Jul 6 2010, 12:58 PM
Post
#9
|
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 54 Joined: 19-April 09 From: Mansfield, TX Member No.: 10,280 Region Association: None |
I thought they were higher due to DOT regulations regarding the headlight 'height' here in the states. If I remember correctly, the European cars were lower in the front then our USA models. Ask the Krusty one, he'd probably remember...
|
|
|
|
| markb |
Jul 6 2010, 01:01 PM
Post
#10
|
|
914less :( Group: Members Posts: 5,449 Joined: 22-January 03 From: Nipomo, CA Member No.: 180 Region Association: Central California
|
Have you got the rear set where you want it already?
|
|
|
|
|
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 18th May 2024 - 04:10 PM |
Invision Power Board
v9.1.4 © 2024 IPS, Inc.