sway bar adjustment |
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sway bar adjustment |
Jerry75914 |
Jul 27 2010, 01:36 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 124 Joined: 13-October 08 From: Half Moon Bay, CA Member No.: 9,640 Region Association: Northern California |
I'm installing a swaybar in my teener that the DAPO decided wasn't a necessary option.
My question is on how to set the adjustable end links. This is a Weltmeister bar, 22mm I belive. Which way do I adjust the links to effect stiffer / softer? I believe by making the links shorter, the bar becomes "softer"? is that right? Is there an initial setting that I should be aiming for? thanks! |
SirAndy |
Jul 27 2010, 01:50 PM
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#2
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,669 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
is that right? No. The length of the links is used to dial out any 'preload' you might have. The softer/stiffer comes from sliding the top of the links on the 'arm' of the bar. While that does effectively lengthen or shorten the bar, it's different than just making the links longer/shorter. After the bar is installed, but the drop-links not yet connected, get the car on the ground and the suspension settled. Then attach the drop-links so the 'arms' point straight forward, level with the ground and position the drop-links at the center of the arms. If your bar is a Weltmeister, it should have notches on the arms for markings. If not, it's always a good idea to add some markings. I like to number the notches so you don't have to count every time you make an adjustment. With the drop-links centered on the arm, you need to the fine-tune the length of the drop-links until there is NO preload on the links, meaning the link portion rotates freely on the threads and feels lose. The wheels have to be pointed straight for this. Once everything is in place tighten all the clamps and nuts on the drop-links. Then go for a drive and *carefully* explore the handling. The reason to set the drop-links in the center of the arm is to leave room for adjustment in either way. Now: - if the car 'pushes' in the front (understeer) move the drop-links towards the front of the car (loosen the bar) and re-test. - if the car feels lose in the rear (oversteer) move the drop-links towards the back of the car (tighten the bar) and re-test. Rinse and repeat until you're happy with the handling ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy |
EdwardBlume |
Jul 27 2010, 01:54 PM
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#3
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
Hey Jerry, I'm glad you're getting around to installing that bar... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
Andy's got it right... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) |
Jerry75914 |
Jul 27 2010, 02:07 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 124 Joined: 13-October 08 From: Half Moon Bay, CA Member No.: 9,640 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks Sir Andy! Now the postings talking about moving front to back on the adjustment make sense...I was always trying to reconcile that to changing the length of the links.
Rob, yep, been a long time...many parts scrounged, many moon cross sky, many camels cross desert! Putting in your Bilsteins and springs too...got my Engman kit welded in...can't wait to see the difference! |
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