QUOTE(Jerry75914 @ Jul 27 2010, 12:36 PM)
is that right?
No.
The length of the links is used to dial out any 'preload' you might have.
The softer/stiffer comes from sliding the top of the links on the 'arm' of the bar. While that does effectively lengthen or shorten the bar, it's different than just making the links longer/shorter.
After the bar is installed, but the drop-links not yet connected, get the car on the ground and the suspension settled.
Then attach the drop-links so the 'arms' point straight forward, level with the ground and position the drop-links at the center of the arms. If your bar is a Weltmeister, it should have notches on the arms for markings. If not, it's always a good idea to add some markings. I like to number the notches so you don't have to count every time you make an adjustment.
With the drop-links centered on the arm, you need to the fine-tune the length of the drop-links until there is NO preload on the links, meaning the link portion rotates freely on the threads and feels lose.
The wheels have to be pointed straight for this.
Once everything is in place tighten all the clamps and nuts on the drop-links.
Then go for a drive and *carefully* explore the handling. The reason to set the drop-links in the center of the arm is to leave room for adjustment in either way.
Now:
- if the car 'pushes' in the front (understeer) move the drop-links towards the front of the car (loosen the bar) and re-test.
- if the car feels lose in the rear (oversteer) move the drop-links towards the back of the car (tighten the bar) and re-test.
Rinse and repeat until you're happy with the handling ...
Andy