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Rusty |
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#21
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Wanted: Engine case GA003709 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 7,942 Joined: 24-December 02 From: North Alabama Member No.: 6 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree with the clear fuel filters. I run two... one at the firewall and one near the battery where I can easily glance at it. The ones I bought at Autozone came with replaceable cartridges, so you can keep the same housing. I bought a bunch of the cartridges.
They seemed pretty good, and I haven't had junk in the idle jets since I installed them. -Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) |
John |
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#22
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member? what's a member? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None ![]() |
Geez, for my carbed setups, I usually use one large (low pressure differential) filter under the tank just before the pump and then a secondary filter just before the inlet on each carb.
Those anodized aluminum fittings look nice, but I'll stick with real pressure fittings made of steel. I get mine cheap from the local hydraulic hose supplier. Same threads, same looks, only WAY stronger... I try to have a MINIMUM of fittings in fuel lines to reduce the risk of leakage. Fire is bad. For the general run of the mill street car with carbs, just about any filter will do (as long as it is clean). BTW, it is easier to unbolt that 914-6 mount from the car than taking it off the front of the engine when removing the engine........ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
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