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Full Version: Fuel Filters? what on earth do i use?
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red914
actually, a couple questions. first, i need to replace the fuel filter. it is a round, black unit, with little squeeze clamps holding the rubber fuel line on each end. it didn't look anything like any of the fram filters at schuck's. as long as the filter fits the line, does it matter (resistance to flow sorts of factors) what size the filter is? does size matter? confused24.gif

second, and this just occured to me over the weekend: how can i know what size engine i have? it is a 1.7, i think. at least that is what the previous owner told me, and he was a pretty honest guy.

i wish i had a digital camera, because i know that if i posted pictures of the fuel filter and the engine, members could tell me.
Mark Henry
What size are the lines in/out?

If they are 8mm/8mm then use a VW part# 311 133 511C or if it's a 8mm/10mm then use the '76-'83 VW bus filter (no number handy).

They are square but they work.
Dave_Darling
If you have fuel injection, use the high-pressure and high-flow FI fuel filters. Available from your favorite on-line vendors and elsewhere. (See my sig below for my favorite vendor.)

If you have carbs, probably just about any filter that fits will be OK.

Check for an engine serial number. Look on the right-rear part of the top of the crankcase. It's often obscured by dirt. One that starts with "W" or "EA" is a 1.7 crankcase, though you can build any-displacement 914 engine on any 914 crankcase.

The 1.7 is the smallest 914 engine, so it's unlikely someone would lie about a car having that.

--DD
red914
i knew i would get some scoop. thanks. pray.gif i should have mentioned it has a single solex carb. the lines going in and out are the same size; 8mm sounds about right. nothing so substantial as 10mm. is bigger better?

i will look for the "vw" or "ea" on the case. i doubt the PO would make it up. also, it doesn't have the neck snappig acceleration that i hear the 2.0 cars have. wacko.gif

another question: how difficult is it to do one of those "move the fuel pump to the front, away from the hot ol' engine" jobs? does it help out?
campbellcj
I have a factory 914-6 filter up front near the tank and pump, and I also just put a small inline AN-6 Russell filter immediately before the Webers. No clogged jets thus far...
Mark Henry
QUOTE(red914 @ Apr 12 2004, 06:52 PM)
i should have mentioned it has a single solex carb.

You have a what!!??!!??

Do you mean a single carb in the middle? or two single solex's one on each side?
This is part of your power problems. Most carbs in the middle are a Weber or Holly and they suck.

QUOTE
the lines going in and out are the same size; 8mm sounds about right.  nothing so substantial as 10mm.  is bigger better?


No, also the numbers I quoted are FI filters, they will work but a $1 bug filter will do the job.

QUOTE
another question:  how difficult is it to do one of those "move the fuel pump to the front, away from the hot ol' engine" jobs?  does it help out?


Not really required, the main reason to move the pump was a battery acid/corrosion issue.
rhodyguy
you can still use the stock one with carb/s. i wonder what type of fuel pump you have? if possible you need to put the filter up stream (ahead of the pump).

kevin
ruddyboys
I would pick up one of those clear fuel filters from your FLAPS, you can see all the crap the filter stops and know when to replace it.
red914
good idea, the clear filter. and the single carb in the middle is, i believe, a solex.

thanks. you all have put me on the right track.
Mark Henry
QUOTE(red914 @ Apr 13 2004, 05:23 AM)
the single carb in the middle is, i believe, a solex.


Like I said the single carbs sucks big ones.
It will work but one day you will want to put a set of dual webers on your to-do list.

smash.gif
red914
the duals are on the to-do list already, along with too many other things to list here. it is still fun, as it is, but i see so much unrealized potential now, having seen some other cars! wub.gif
RON S.
I finally got around to capping off a digi-pic last night.
I bought a Canton Products fuel filter and as you can see,I mounted it on the firewall.There's also a clear cheapo unit up front under the tank.
Ron
red914
that fiilter is a mighty impressive looking piece of engineering. that position would, i suppose, keep it from overheating. for the time being, i am going to replace the current unit with something comparable: in-line, and upstream from the pump.
7391420
I thought we moved the fuel pumps to a cooler spot to prevent vapor lock? isn't that right?

also,

I'm not sure about this, but I am sure that if I'm wrong someone will correct me!!

but isn't the vapor lock issue primarally a FI problem and not a carb problem? if so, it doesn't matter if you move the pump because your car has a carb and so won't be affected... then again, I cant see how if would hurt to move the pump to a cooler spot...
Qarl
7391420,

That's the fuel FILTER, not the fuel PUMP mounted on the firewall in the picture above.
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(7391420 @ Apr 14 2004, 07:09 AM)
but isn't the vapor lock issue primarally a FI problem and not a carb problem?

Nope. It's a fuel delivery system problem. In fact, it can be worse with carbs because the higher pressures of an FI system make it harder for the fuel to boil. Plus the fact that all FI fuel systems (in stock 914s, at least) recirculate the fuel back to the (cool) tank helps keep the fuel cooler.

--DD
tat2dphreak
man RON, that stock prop. valve looks way out of place on that car... you need an anondized red one with Blue fittigs wink.gif

j/k... very nice pic!
RON S.
Yea,
It's the stock 914/6 unit.I'll probably remove it and put a Tilton adjustable unit in the car later on.
I agree now after I took the pic.It does look bad.
Ron
red914
hmmm, vapor lock. haven't noticed any problems like that, and i, too, was under the impression that it was a FI problem. does vapor lock prevent the engine from starting hot? or does it prevent the hot engine from revving down? confused24.gif

someday, maybe, i will move the pump and filter to the front, or somewhere cool. as for now, unfortunately, cheaper is better. got a $4.50 filter, and hopefully it will keep my fuel clean as it heads into cumbustion heaven!

some of you guys are mighty imtimidating with your amazing cars. i don't know that i will ever have the know-how, or the means, to do the super cool stuff you do. i could look at the pictures of modifications in these threads for hours. wub.gif (heck, my wife will tell yo i already do! laugh.gif )
campbellcj
Ron, I am not sure this is a real issue or just paranoia...but I would be a tad concerned about the filter and lines being wiped out by a rock or debris in the event of a track off or other misc. "incident". idea.gif

(Mainly talking about the lower on on the filter can, which is down at the belly pan level of the car...would be <4" off the pavement on my car.)

We have a lot of ruts, rocks, sticks, tumbleweeds, small critters, and so forth on our local tracks and canyon roads, so I am trying to route and tie everything critical down with that in mind.


BTW your car looks sweet! Pretty similar to mine...except a whole lot cleaner!
Rusty
I agree with the clear fuel filters. I run two... one at the firewall and one near the battery where I can easily glance at it. The ones I bought at Autozone came with replaceable cartridges, so you can keep the same housing. I bought a bunch of the cartridges.

They seemed pretty good, and I haven't had junk in the idle jets since I installed them.

-Rusty smoke.gif
John
Geez, for my carbed setups, I usually use one large (low pressure differential) filter under the tank just before the pump and then a secondary filter just before the inlet on each carb.

Those anodized aluminum fittings look nice, but I'll stick with real pressure fittings made of steel. I get mine cheap from the local hydraulic hose supplier. Same threads, same looks, only WAY stronger...

I try to have a MINIMUM of fittings in fuel lines to reduce the risk of leakage. Fire is bad.

For the general run of the mill street car with carbs, just about any filter will do (as long as it is clean).

BTW, it is easier to unbolt that 914-6 mount from the car than taking it off the front of the engine when removing the engine........ laugh.gif
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