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> My sound deadining projeck
jsayre914
post Aug 15 2010, 04:21 PM
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Well,

I am waiting for my exhaust to come back from the ceramic coater, so why not start the next project (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just recieved my shipment of second skin. I bought the damplifier, overkill and luxury liner. I am not sure if i will use it all but I want to see what works better where. I will post some pics once i get underway. I already have an aftermarket engine bay pad from evil bay. it works pretty good. this stuff i just got will go on the interior only. I also plan to reinstall the rear window with some new butyl tape when i begin. (just say NO to water)

i wonder how many projects i can start at one time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

here is the link to the stuff i bought

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
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RJMII
post Aug 15 2010, 04:26 PM
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That spectrum sludge looks pretty interesting, with its rust inhibiting properties.
Make sure and take pictures and give an honest opinion, I am quite interested in the results you have with the products that you did purchase.
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 15 2010, 04:48 PM
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Funny! This Second Skin product JUST showed up on the Jeep board that I am on too. Let me know what you find out.

Zach
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Gint
post Aug 15 2010, 06:12 PM
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I'm also interested in the results!
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PanelBilly
post Aug 16 2010, 09:26 AM
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Me two
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nsyr
post Aug 16 2010, 10:03 AM
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I just removed a product similar to spectrum sludge from my interior because it was causing rust. I don't remember the brand.
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charliew
post Aug 16 2010, 12:13 PM
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Was it causing rust or had it been put on top of existing rust?
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jsayre914
post Aug 18 2010, 12:49 PM
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I didnt get very far, but i started yesterday. I got the seats out, center console, carpets, backpad, and the rear trunk as much as i could remove in 2 hours. It dosnt look pretty, but i am not done yet

I still have the front trunk to do as well as door panels and targa bar. the pedal cluster needs to come out, its a little funky because of a leaky rear window glass.

I will have to replace the rear glass seal before anything eles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)


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jsayre914
post Aug 18 2010, 12:52 PM
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trunk pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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McMark
post Aug 18 2010, 01:30 PM
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I've used all those products. The Spectrum Sludge doesn't deaden a whole lot of mid/low frequency sounds, but does have an effect on high frequency sound. I have a video of tapping on metal before and after. The knocking isn't a whole lot quieter, but if you listen to the 'ring' of the metal between knocks you can hear how that gets reduced by quite a bit. It's a great first layer and you could even apply more Sludge after the Damplifier and before the Luxury Liner.

Attaching the Luxury Liner is a PITA. I used Gorilla Glue but holding it in place while the glue set up was challenging.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHs3Glkn0eE
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jsayre914
post Aug 18 2010, 06:06 PM
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cool video, thanks. I will not be using spectrum on this project. Just the three layers, or 2 in some places.

How do i prep the metal. Should i use a chemical solvent, or wire brush everything. I thought a good coat of Por51 kinda paint should be applied first. then when it is dry add the dedner.

whacha think???
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 18 2010, 06:21 PM
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When I did mine, this is how I did it.

I wire brushed all the surface rust out of the pan, and coated it with POR-15. Followed the POR instructions to the letter, using Marine Clean, then the Metal Ready, then fresh water rinse and the silver POR.

On the firewall, I used liquid decal remover to get all the gum off. Then I painted it (with the rest of my car)

With the cabin painted, I put the sound deadening right over top. I used RaaMaat, and it is seriously sticky stuff. I put 2 layers on the firewall, one on the floor, and one inside the doors.

On the engine side, its just metal.

It works pretty well, but my car is still loud.

Zach
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scotty b
post Aug 18 2010, 06:25 PM
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IMHO you should remove the factory tar boards and be ready to do some clean up. Those things are the WORST " addition ": Porsche could have made. The areas that sit in the channels never bonded, and water creeps under there and just sits in the channels. A Mapp gas torch and a stiff putty knife gets the job done in about 2.5 hours Then solvent clean, wire brush the rusty spots and paint, then apply new deadening ONLY on the raised parts. That keeps the channels open to dry out in the future.


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jsayre914
post Aug 18 2010, 09:04 PM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Aug 18 2010, 08:25 PM) *

IMHO you should remove the factory tar boards and be ready to do some clean up.


um, where in my picture is the factory tar boards.?? and explain about the channels. i dont speak english so well thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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McMark
post Aug 19 2010, 11:32 AM
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The 'tar boards' are on the floor pan and the center tunnel. Poke with a screwdriver and you'll get the picture. The 'channels' are the ridges/valleys/lines you see in the floor pan.
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SirAndy
post Aug 19 2010, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Aug 19 2010, 10:32 AM) *

The 'tar boards' are on the floor pan and the center tunnel. Poke with a screwdriver and you'll get the picture. The 'channels' are the ridges/valleys/lines you see in the floor pan.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Judging from the surface rust on your floor-pans, there will be more rust under the factory tar.

The factory painted over the tar, that's why you haven't noticed it yet. But after 40 years, the tar has cracked and water has made it's way underneath eating away on your floorboards ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) Andy
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SirAndy
post Aug 19 2010, 11:51 AM
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Btw. the tar comes off in fairly large chunks if you heat it up with a heat gun and use a medium sized scraper ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1131937424.jpg)
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SirAndy
post Aug 19 2010, 11:52 AM
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After tar removal:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/blog-1115347793.jpg)
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jsayre914
post Aug 19 2010, 12:42 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) so what you guys are telling me is that what i think is the floor is really not the floor, its like a parrelell dimension, and if i start at it with a putty knife i will discover the truth


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) whoa


thats deep



thanks for the info, now i got a bigger job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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ellisor3
post Aug 19 2010, 02:28 PM
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QUOTE(jsayre914 @ Aug 19 2010, 02:42 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) so what you guys are telling me is that what i think is the floor is really not the floor, its like a parrelell dimension, and if i start at it with a putty knife i will discover the truth


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) whoa


thats deep



thanks for the info, now i got a bigger job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

In looking at the pictures, it looks like the tar was previously removed and the bare floor was repainted. Tar does not rust.
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