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> 15 years in storage - Paint Code pic added
dlee6204
post Aug 31 2010, 08:53 AM
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Before you do ANYTHING, you should sit in the driver's seat and make high revving engine noises while moving the shifter around (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) THEN get to work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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tornik550
post Aug 31 2010, 09:02 AM
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I am absolutely convinced that this is a bumblebee. I say this based on the vin and the paint code. I think the owner will post more info in a little bit.
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rick 918-S
post Aug 31 2010, 09:10 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Bristol
post Aug 31 2010, 09:32 AM
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I would do what others have recommended on thoroughly going through the brakes and fuel system.

As for the engine, personally I would drop the engine, check that the exhaust and headers are clear, and I would go as far as to remove the heads and oil pan and make sure the pistons, valves, push rods, etc. all operate and turn as they should. A co-worker of mine got a '71 911 Targa from storage like this last year. He's been working on it ever since. The engine ran like crap, but he just tried squirting various things into the cylinders to free them up. Car still smoked and ran rough. Finally, about a week ago it threw a rod and punched a hole in the case - engine is ruined. I think he would have been better off just dropping the engine in the first place and going through it a little more thoroughly. So that is my advice to you.

Kirk
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Tom_T
post Aug 31 2010, 10:36 AM
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All good advice above - don't run the motor until you go through & replace all fuel system lines, etc. - ditto on the brake system.

IMHO - POR15 & similar products just covers up the problems with rust if it hasn't been cut out, converted & replaced with good sheet metal or panels (see Restoration Design for replacement panels). Even if not a Bee, it looks to be in great shape & well worth fixing any rust damage properly to get another 40 years out of her!

See the LE info here - it ma be on the registry -
http://www.bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/
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Rav914
post Aug 31 2010, 10:57 AM
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When I bought my '74, it had been 'stored' or parked for 21 years. Here's what I did:

Dropped motor.
Pulled gas tank and cleaned it
New rubber fuel lines everywhere
All four brake calipers to PMB Performance
New stainless brake lines
Turned rotors
New brake pads
New 19mm Master brake cylinder
Replaced ALL hoses on FI system
Injectors rebuilt by Witchhunter
Ignition tune-up
New tranny fluid

Add'l stuff you may not need:
Turned flywheel
new clutch kit
rebuilt CV's

Car fired right up, ran and stop. Plus I'm sure there were quite a few little itmes I'm forgetting. But that's the main stuff for safety.
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budk
post Aug 31 2010, 11:10 AM
Post #27


Yes! It's a Bumblebee!
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ Aug 31 2010, 12:36 PM) *

All good advice above - don't run the motor until you go through & replace all fuel system lines, etc. - ditto on the brake system.

IMHO - POR15 & similar products just covers up the problems with rust if it hasn't been cut out, converted & replaced with good sheet metal or panels (see Restoration Design for replacement panels). Even if not a Bee, it looks to be in great shape & well worth fixing any rust damage properly to get another 40 years out of her!

See the LE info here - it ma be on the registry -
http://www.bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/


It's tough to live in the East and not have some rust issue to deal with on a constant basis. I plan on using por15 on any surface rust that I can, but if I run into a bigger issue it will be time to cut and replace.

The CanAm site is the first place I looked. It's not listed there ... not yet anyway.

Thanks.
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strawman
post Aug 31 2010, 11:28 AM
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QUOTE(budk @ Aug 31 2010, 10:10 AM) *


It's tough to live in the East and not have some rust issue to deal with on a constant basis. I plan on using por15 on any surface rust that I can, but if I run into a bigger issue it will be time to cut and replace.



I am nearing the end of the rustoration of my CA car (they ALL rust if exposed to the elements!), and I agree that proper prep and conversion works best for surface rust / minor pitting and that replacement panels are necessary for rust-through / major pitting. But I don't agree that you'll need to replace EVERY panel that has evidence of rust... these tubs were not galvanized from the factory and I frankly believe that it would be impossible to truly eradicate all rust and/or prevent it completely. There are just too many nooks/crannies/seams to get at it all...

Good luck with your project. In hindsight, I really shoulda started with a cleaner tub.

Geoff
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Dr Evil
post Aug 31 2010, 12:27 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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Score, the guy who bought the car is a neighbor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Hi neighbor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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budk
post Aug 31 2010, 12:48 PM
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Yes! It's a Bumblebee!
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 31 2010, 02:27 PM) *

Score, the guy who bought the car is a neighbor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Hi neighbor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)


Hey Doc.

Good to "talk' to you via email. Hope to see you soon.
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Dr Evil
post Aug 31 2010, 12:54 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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20 min away with a nice car to start with. There is not one single thing that we can not do to that car: engine, tranz, fuel, brakes, suspension, steering, wiring, environmental controls, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I think I will be able to save you lots of time and $$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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markb
post Aug 31 2010, 01:08 PM
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QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Aug 31 2010, 07:53 AM) *

Before you do ANYTHING, you should sit in the driver's seat and make high revving engine noises while moving the shifter around (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) THEN get to work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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RFoulds
post Aug 31 2010, 01:29 PM
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I am doing the same thing. Mine was in storage 22 years.
Fuel tank and fuel lines.
Brakes, brake lines and master cylinder.
take cap off from timing hole, above th eflywheel, and stick a clean screwdriver in to see if flywheeel turns easily. Mine did, which tells me pistons and rings were not rusted to the cylinder as I feared.

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budk
post Aug 31 2010, 01:37 PM
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Yes! It's a Bumblebee!
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Aug 31 2010, 02:54 PM) *

20 min away with a nice car to start with. There is not one single thing that we can not do to that car: engine, tranz, fuel, brakes, suspension, steering, wiring, environmental controls, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I think I will be able to save you lots of time and $$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)


Sound like fun!
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SirAndy
post Aug 31 2010, 04:08 PM
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QUOTE(budk @ Aug 31 2010, 10:10 AM) *
I plan on using por15 on any surface rust that I can

Please don't ...

I'm afraid POR-15 does not work quite as advertised. I had very mixed results and i will NOT use it on my car anymore.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Andy
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underthetire
post Aug 31 2010, 04:30 PM
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QUOTE(Bristol @ Aug 31 2010, 08:32 AM) *

I would do what others have recommended on thoroughly going through the brakes and fuel system.

As for the engine, personally I would drop the engine, check that the exhaust and headers are clear, and I would go as far as to remove the heads and oil pan and make sure the pistons, valves, push rods, etc. all operate and turn as they should. A co-worker of mine got a '71 911 Targa from storage like this last year. He's been working on it ever since. The engine ran like crap, but he just tried squirting various things into the cylinders to free them up. Car still smoked and ran rough. Finally, about a week ago it threw a rod and punched a hole in the case - engine is ruined. I think he would have been better off just dropping the engine in the first place and going through it a little more thoroughly. So that is my advice to you.

Kirk



Can someone point me to the oil pan? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Rod
post Aug 31 2010, 04:33 PM
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First thing you should do is pull up a deck chair, open a beer and spend a few good minutes just looking at your new purchase!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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windforfun
post Aug 31 2010, 05:40 PM
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QUOTE(Rod @ Aug 31 2010, 03:33 PM) *

First thing you should do is pull up a deck chair, open a beer and spend a few good minutes just looking at your new purchase!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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scotty b
post Aug 31 2010, 05:51 PM
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rust free you say ?
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Do yourself a favor and spend the money to have the gas tank professionaly boiled and sealed. Do not be surprised if they tell you it has pinholes in it. If they do, get the tank back from them and get it to a competent fabricator/welder to have somepatched made, then take it back to be sealed.
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Ian Stott
post Aug 31 2010, 06:48 PM
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I have a 73 2.0 and it had been stored for quite some time as well, I got the complete hose kit from George at Auto Atlanta, some other gaskets and injector seals, etc., fuel tank reconditioned, new filters,(there is a filter inside the tank sometimes called a sock), bled the brakes a lot til fluid came real clean at each caliper, changed the oil 4 times in the first 2000 miles, new optima battery, played with the idle a lot and am still messing with it! Got new tires, followed all the advice from this group ref rust hunting and have driven over 5000 trouble free miles to date and have thoroughly enjoyed all of them! Welcome to the club! My wife asks when will the car be done, I don't know I just picking away at it, all I know it is getting back to how it was meant to be and I'm not on a deadline.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada
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