Cleaning/rebuilding injectors Options

[lmcchesney]

Does anyone have a proven method of cleaning injectors. What is involved in the rebuilding of injectors. Ray Green gave me a method of cleaning involvine muric acid and injector cleaner and penatrating oil. Did that last month. Now the injectors will not pulse.
Here we go again. The persuit of truth.
L. McChesney

[mightyohm]

Last time I cleaned mine I soaked them in a bath of acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner (can you say fire hazard?). Since then, DD and others have told me that acetone can eat the injectors and destroy them. If I did it again, I'd probably try mineral spirits or maybe B12??

I'm interested to hear what others say also.

[lmcchesney]

This is Ray's method:
Here is a couple of things you can try. It really depends upon the definition of "bad" injectors. IF YOU HAVE: (1) and injector whose pin or pintle moves well, but the injector appears to be blocked up internally or...(2) you have noticed minor rust bleeding around the pintel of an injector that has not been in use for a while, and that pintle still moves freely, try these things.

Attache a pressureized fuel hose in reverse...or over the injector end. Clamp it well. Put on you safety glasses. Trigger the injector repeatedly. It back-flushes the injector.

One problem noted above is the growth of light rust from water vapor or water in the fuel. The pintels are hardened. So ..as long as rust does not pit the seat ,wherin the injector leaks....you can clean that rust out. Here's how.

Get a pressure vessel...like an old freon tank. Clean it out well, by takinng the valve off and rinsing it. You will fill it halfway with a mixture of muratic acid andclean water. Screw the valve back on tight. Put on your safety glasses and make sure you have a garden hose nearby just in case. Put only about 15-20 psi on the tank of air pressure. Close the valve. Connect fuel line....connect injector. Turn the tank upside down, so you only get liquid under pressure. Trigger the injector...open the valve. DO NOT BREATH ANY ACID AIR MIX. USE A MASK. Spray the injectors into a glass of water.

Muratic acid literally dissolves ALL rust...down to bare clean metal. It will clean EVERYTHING out of the injector. Then go over it with chemtool. Then WD-40. Ray

[Rusty]

Check the Classic Message section. There is a thread in there about a home-made ultra-sonic fuel injector cleaner. I thought the whole idea was pretty cool.

Hope this helps.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[mangrum]

For around $20 each I've taken FI's to:
KINSLER FUEL INJECTION
1834 THUNDERBIRD DR, TROY, MI 48084
Phone: (248) 362-1145

They clean, test and change the screen; then ship to my house. Not free but professionaly done and convinient.

There are probably shops nearer to you, but Kinsler probably would do yours if you shipped them to them.

[mangrum]

L,

Just noticed you are in Toledo, OH, not too far from me. The SE MI 914 Owners Group (SMOG) will be participating in the Vintage Volkswagen Festival in Ypsilanti, MI, on May 23. (http://www.mvvc.net/) Last year we had 22 cars on display. I think pics were posted on this BBS. I'm sure the group would be happy to have you display your car. Contact "Gary Stellmach" (our BS Chairman) if you would like to attend.

Mike

[darisb]

Send them to RC Engineering. They testt them, then clean them in an ultrasonic tank, then test them them again. They give you a report that tells you the before and after performance, rate them after the cleaning, and tell you what the stock performance. They charge like $30 an injector. http://www.rceng.com/

Daris

[Mark Henry]

Check the Classic Message section. There is a thread in there about a home-made ultra-sonic fuel injector cleaner. I thought the whole idea was pretty cool.

Hope this helps.

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

That was my old post. Works good you should see the crap that came off of them. I just used the stuff you put in your gas tank.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...njector+cleaner

[SLITS]

Send them to RC Engineering.  They testt them, then clean them in an ultrasonic tank, then test them them again.  They give you a report that tells you the before and after performance, rate them after the cleaning, and tell you what the stock performance.  They charge like $30 an injector.  http://www.rceng.com/

Daris

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) He is a customer - seen his operation - know what machine he uses. He also puts new filters in the inlet and can supply new seals too!

BTW - acids will not remove grease/oil. Muriatic acid (Hydrochloric acid) will eat any metal it comes into contact rapidly.

[lmcchesney]

Thanks Guys,
Mangrum, thanks. That's close to me. I could stop by the Bass ProShop for David(My David) while I'm up there. I'll call but do you know if they can calibrate the injectors as well? I would love to come to the meet. Since my engine is still out, I'll drag that succker up there. That is, if you think the gang would be interested in my unpainted, fiber flares, no interior, no engine skelton. I could remove the beer cans. Oh yeah, LOL. Really, if we can pull it together, I would love for the boys an I to come up. Engine is still at Autocraft Engines, but we may be able to pull it off.

Darisb, the way the weather has been in the west end of lake Erie, I wish I could drive them there. Very well known and respected company though.

Mark, I remember that when you did that, you found Jimmy Hoffa.

Slits, (gotta whatch that right hand when I type you name), are you sure about that? I'v used Muriatic(HCl) to remove the carbon soiling on the fire place lentel. Most grease is long chain fatty acids are they not? However, if you cannot get them covered with oil following use, it oxidizes metal, it seems all metals, very fast.

I was able to pick up two used ones from Charles this morning. I'll keep looking. What have I got to loose, I'll try HCl on one and CLR on another and see. I've been using Koil oil following since it is a great penetrating oil.
L. McChesney

[SLITS]

Spent 25 years in water treatment. Rating of acids for cleaning and metal removal:

Sulfric - eats everything
Hydrochloric - eats everthing a little slower (not much)
Phosphoric - a little more gentle, slow on metals
Sulfamic (dry) least agressive of all, but slow

I won't go into Flouric or Nitric acids - both highly dangerous.

Acids were used to remove mineral deposits. Fats and oils are unaffected by acids. Basic materials will remove oils, fats, etc. If you use Sodim Hydroxide (NaOH), it will cut the oils, fats almost instantly. The old solutions they used to clean engines, carbs, etc., were not acids, they were basic. NaOH will also eat metal. Has a lot to do with the relative activity of the radical.

It is my belief that the cleaning solutions used on injectors are neutral/basic in nature with the additions of dispersants and solubilizers. I have not investigated this.

I know that, personally, I would not use an acid to clean oils and fats. Drain cleaners are NaOH or similiar materials). Radiator cleaners (removal of scale and rust) were acidic and I believe if they disclosed what was used, it would be sulfamic acid.

My main concern in using HCl were the metal parts in the injector (pintle, filter screen, electrical contacts).

OH - BTW - I am not a chemist and have been out of water treatment for about 10 years.

If you need a couple of 2.0 injectors, I may have them in my junk uh stock pile.

[lmcchesney]

Thanks Slits,
That's right. NaOH will consume fats with extreme predigious. That is why when people swallow HCl, yeah, but not big deal. Swallow that NaOH Draino stuf, and it's off to the OR not just once but many times.
Thanks for keeping our water clean. And that's from a conservative.

Why YES. Let me know your needs for the injectors.

L. Mcchesney

[tracks914]

Here is my ignorance showing again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
How do you know that your injectors need cleaning?

[lmcchesney]

30 years old. Sat arround awhile. Probably.
L. McChesney

[Korijo]

OK, my set-up didn't seem to be working very good anymore, I thought my engraver was wearing out. I then found out if I pressed the tip in it worked better.

Doh! When you engrave something your always pressing on the tip!

So I've put a spring on the engraver body to the tip clamp, to pull in on the tip and it now works better then ever!

Hey I did say TIP clamp!!!

Mark,

Do you have a pic of the spring location on the tip ? I dont understand... 'splain, please ?

[TimT]

Marren Fuel Injection cleans injectors also

they are in Connecticut

http://www.injector.com/

[Korijo]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) for Mark...