Alright 'six' guys..., need to pick your brains. Options

[BMXerror]

What is your resource for information regarding the early engines? I'm looking at anything from 2.0-3.2. I want to know what are the good parts to look for; cases and heads in particular. Also what parts are interchangeable. Is there some 'one-stop-shop' place where they break down all this info. -6 newbie in the planning stages here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
Mark D.

[Sleepin]

Having just driven my first six (thanks Wills!) ... a COTM winner and very sorted 3.2.....I can just say... you want one!

Rant over.....(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol3.gif)

[sixnotfour]

yup bang for your bucks 3.2

[Britain Smith]

I got a 2.7L race motor that would be the hot ticket! Even have all the conversion parts.

-Britain

[sixnotfour]

sorry britain, good deal in classifieds

[BMXerror]

Haha.. I know that all too well, Britain. Take a wild guess which class I have in mind. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) However, the phrase 'planning stages' means I'm too broke for that right now. Good luck with the sale, though.
How about this question. Anyone know if you can put a 2.7 crank in a 3.0/3.2 case?
Mark D.

I got a 2.7L race motor that would be the hot ticket! Even have all the conversion parts.

-Britain

[IronHillRestorations]

When it comes down to it, there's not a huge difference rebuilding a 2.0 six as a 3.2, one caveat would be the pistons & cylinders though. So get the biggest, newest engine you can afford.

I wouldn't get anything less than a 3.0, and hold out for a Motronic 3.2 if I could. But I wouldn't go for a 3.6, as it's a much more involved conversion. That doesn't mean you might not fall into a deal on anything else though. Plenty of guys are upgrading to larger engines, so good used ones are out there.

Good advice is available on this site, but there's a wee bit of BS too, so due dilligence is required.

[Mark Henry]

Anyone know if you can put a 2.7 crank in a 3.0/3.2 case?

No, different flywheel flange.

[MikeSpraggi]

Engine selection may depend on what you want to do with the car. I want to do vintage racing so my track car will be a small bore /6 per the rules. If I weren't doing the vintage thing, I would opt for a 3.2 hands down.

[Eric_Shea]

Get Bruce Anderson's 911 Performance Handbook. It walks you through engines and engine developement in chronological order. And... it gives you an engine chart that tells the years, case numbers, displacement etc. There's more... just buy that book and you'll be on your way.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[BMXerror]

Engine selection may depend on what you want to do with the car. I want to do vintage racing so my track car will be a small bore /6 per the rules. If I weren't doing the vintage thing, I would opt for a 3.2 hands down.

The engine would be built to a class, and it would be a punched out 2.7. So I know the dimensions I want to run. I just want to know the best parts to accomplish that. What parts to use. What parts to avoid. Thanks for the info, guys. Keep the advice comin'.
Mark D.

[carr914]

Get Bruce Anderson's 911 Performance Handbook. It walks you through engines and engine developement in chronological order. And... it gives you an engine chart that tells the years, case numbers, displacement etc. There's more... just buy that book and you'll be on your way.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Also if you are going to build an engine to class, my suggestion is to hunt for an early aluminum 2.0 Case. They are getting expensive ($1,200 - $2,500 just for the case). They are heavier, but aluminum is stronger than magnesium especially when they are 40 years old. Mag gets brittle and when pushed to the limit breaks. This has just been coming more common in the last few years. I have had Mag cases with no problems, but my newest motor is a 2.8 Twin-Plug built on a Aluminum case.

T.C.

[GeorgeRud]

If you're going to use a 2.7, also get Wayne Dempsey's book on rebuilding a 911 engine, as he goes through things step by step. A well built and running 2.7 is a great motor, but not easy or cheap to achieve. I'd agree with the others that a 3.2 with motronic is a great way to go (after the valve guides have been redone). All these engines have some issues, but the fixes are well known by now.

I'd definitely get both books and do my homework before you spend dollar one on actual parts.

[J P Stein]

I agree with the B. Anderson book bit. There is more information than my head would accept in one or two readings. Advantages/disadvntages of all the 911 motors, interchangeability, blows some myths....yada. Gud stuff.

[jim dorociak]

I agree with the B. Anderson book bit. There is more information than my head would accept in one or two readings. Advantages/disadvntages of all the 911 motors, interchangeability, blows some myths....yada. Gud stuff.

The early 3.0 turbo engine, or the european carrera engine used the 2.7 crankshaft. It was a six bolt crank, all the USA 3.0 SC or 3.2 Carrera engines cases use a 9 bolt crank (flange where the clutch attaches) so basically no a 2.7 crank will not work. Those two cases I mentioned are very rare and expensive if you can locate one to buy. Problem with the magnesium engine cases they are so old that the require so much work from the machine shop to use it almost becomes cost prohibitive at this point. Much cheaper to build off a 3.0 or 3.2 case even if you are going to run carbs. Jim

[J P Stein]

I built the engine in Brit's car.
The total bill for case work was just over $500 including:
Case savers
Drag hone of the mains **
Mag & polish the crank
Deck & square the spigots

** If the main bores are not straight/true enough for a drag hone, shit can it & find another one that is. The drag hone allows std/std bearings. Every mag case I've disassembleld was narrow across the case split at the main bores.

The 76 & later have the oiling up grades & larger scavenge section oil pump.
These are preferable.

The key to longevity of any mag case motor is keeping it cool. An aux oil cooler is a must, IMO. It seldom saw 100C (212F) and never an appreciable amount over that. Ignore this at your own risk.

The engine was stone reliable for 7 seasons then rebuilt as it was getting tired (scored cylinders probably from not getting it up to proper opperating temp before pounding on it....or the fer shit rings that came with the pistons). The bearings were fine as frog hair.

You want to spend some money at your machine shop? Get an early aluminum case. They need piston squirters, oil pump & mods,& layshaft boring for inserts.....that's about $3K or more over the price of the case..and for what? A marginal strength increase? Your machinist will love you.

[Root_Werks]

Depends on budget as well. You've listed a pretty variable range of engines which have a pretty variable range of prices.

I haven't looked in a few years, 'cause I can't afford one, so why bother. But use to be the early stuff was pretty good deals.

2.0T - non CW crank, cheap
2.0E or S - don't bother, collectors want them

2.2 or 2.4T's - really good deals, lots-o-torque

2.7's - anything used pretty much needs rebuilding unless you KNOW where it came from

3.0's - Good deal for money usually.

3.2's - Best bang for buck, PITA to wire up the FI and buy extra conversion parts to make it work in the 914.

2.0 - 2.7 are the easiest to slap on carbs, bolt on and go.

3.0's require a different flywheel.

You could range (I wager) from $2k-$10k for any of the listed above.

So depends on your budget.

[Mark Henry]

To me if you're going to the expense of an aluminum case why not just buy a 3.0> to start with.

[tradisrad]

Not to hijack the thread, but will stock 914 exchangers work with a 3.0 6?

[Cupomeat]

Not to hijack the thread, but will stock 914 exchangers work with a 3.0 6?

Hmm, Stock 914-6 heat exchangers?

They should be the right spacing for the exhaust ports, but they will be rather small for a 3.0l displacement.