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> my old lady is a cold
oldschool
post Sep 22 2010, 08:23 PM
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So I have 2 question, why is it that it takes so long for my lady (914) to warm up.
after she real warm she idles nice.... but before that it hard to keep it running?
btw she runs real nice.

also I just had the clutch replaced and now it seems to shifts poorly?
all the right busing have been replaced,
when the trans is removed does the shifter get out of whack?
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Cj Honeycutt
post Sep 22 2010, 08:47 PM
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try cleaning out the idle jets
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jt914-6
post Sep 22 2010, 08:55 PM
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FI or carbs??? If FI maybe cold start valve (injector) isn't working...on the clutch, was the flywheel turned? Check the plastic cup under the TO bearing arm? Clutch not adjusted right?
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Socalandy
post Sep 22 2010, 08:58 PM
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Sounds like a carb setup. This is why the -6 came with pedal linkage.

Mine needs a little help but not bad.
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rick 918-S
post Sep 22 2010, 09:02 PM
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Check to see that the cone screws are tight. I had one back out and thought the shifter was out of adjustment.
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oldschool
post Sep 22 2010, 09:42 PM
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QUOTE(Socalandy @ Sep 22 2010, 07:58 PM) *

Sounds like a carb setup. This is why the -6 came with pedal linkage.

Mine needs a little help but not bad.


No Andy its 1973 1.7 fi I meet you at c$c on Porsche day its the white car.
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oldschool
post Sep 22 2010, 09:43 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Sep 22 2010, 08:02 PM) *

Check to see that the cone screws are tight. I had one back out and thought the shifter was out of adjustment.


Rick so is the screen at the rear?
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oldschool
post Sep 22 2010, 09:45 PM
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QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Sep 22 2010, 07:55 PM) *

FI or carbs??? If FI maybe cold start valve (injector) isn't working...on the clutch, was the flywheel turned? Check the plastic cup under the TO bearing arm? Clutch not adjusted right?


Yes fly wheel was turned.
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oldschool
post Sep 22 2010, 09:46 PM
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QUOTE(Cj Honeycutt @ Sep 22 2010, 07:47 PM) *

try cleaning out the idle jets


you try cleaning your idle jets (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) sorry about that its FI (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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type47
post Sep 23 2010, 06:23 AM
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QUOTE(oldschool @ Sep 22 2010, 07:43 PM) *

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Sep 22 2010, 08:02 PM) *

Check to see that the cone screws are tight. I had one back out and thought the shifter was out of adjustment.


Rick so is the screen at the rear?


Screen? The linkage has 2 cone screws, 1 at the trans end of the linkage under the cover and the 2nd at the coupling just after the linkage exits the firewall.
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nathansnathan
post Sep 23 2010, 08:52 AM
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Warming the car has to do with the thermostat and flaps, assuming you have a 4.

When the car is cold, try moving the flap 'lever' (the bar that goes under the tin/ has a cable screwed to it). If it easily goes through a full sweep, your thermostat is shot - they fail in the open/ hot position.
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john rogers
post Sep 23 2010, 09:25 AM
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Who did the clutch job? I would take it back and have them make sure it works as well as it did BEFORE the work. On the bill there should be a list of parts and generally when pulling the transmission for a clutch job, the linkage is disassembled so new cone screws should be listed. If they were used over then they will come loose. I would look under the car to make sure there are TWO nuts locking the clutch adjuster and not just one nylock nut as the heat will destroy the locker and it will very slowly back off and shifting will become impossible.
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Rotary'14
post Sep 23 2010, 09:38 AM
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QUOTE(john rogers @ Sep 23 2010, 08:25 AM) *

Who did the clutch job? I would take it back and have them make sure it works as well as it did BEFORE the work. On the bill there should be a list of parts and generally when pulling the transmission for a clutch job, the linkage is disassembled so new cone screws should be listed. If they were used over then they will come loose. I would look under the car to make sure there are TWO nuts locking the clutch adjuster and not just one nylock nut as the heat will destroy the locker and it will very slowly back off and shifting will become impossible.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Hey oldschool,, how's it going?
You would think that a 914 expert would take the time to make sure your shifting is good,, or did it get progressively worse? Because those cone screws DO come loose unless you loc-tite them (GREEN i think),, and using loc-tite isn't reccomended by the factory,, they want you to buy new screws. But I use loc-tite anyways and check on the screws now and then.

-Robert
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majkos
post Sep 23 2010, 09:55 AM
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QUOTE(oldschool @ Sep 22 2010, 07:46 PM) *

QUOTE(Cj Honeycutt @ Sep 22 2010, 07:47 PM) *

try cleaning out the idle jets


you try cleaning your idle jets (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) sorry about that its FI (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

HeY! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Be nice!
She's new and trying to help.

On shift issue, check clutch cable travel,
Many, MANY times it's too loose, thus gears grinding
While you're checking the set screw in the shfter Rick mention
you can adjust the clutch cable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
If needed that is
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swl
post Sep 23 2010, 07:38 PM
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Check out brad anders site. He has a whole section on idle issues. Aar, both temp sensors, air bleed, idle mix. All pay a role in idle. If it idles well when warm you might want to check the aar first. Could be stuck closed. When cold pull off the intake hose - you should feel vacuum.
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Dr Evil
post Sep 23 2010, 09:24 PM
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When a flywheel is turned, the clutch fork ball stud must be shimmer out with an extra washer and some sealant applied to the threads. This compensates for the clutch package now being farther from the throw out bearing. It's all explained in my 31 pages of notes in the link before.

Does it grind going into reverse?
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oldschool
post Sep 24 2010, 01:21 AM
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QUOTE(Rotary'14 @ Sep 23 2010, 08:38 AM) *

QUOTE(john rogers @ Sep 23 2010, 08:25 AM) *

Who did the clutch job? I would take it back and have them make sure it works as well as it did BEFORE the work. On the bill there should be a list of parts and generally when pulling the transmission for a clutch job, the linkage is disassembled so new cone screws should be listed. If they were used over then they will come loose. I would look under the car to make sure there are TWO nuts locking the clutch adjuster and not just one nylock nut as the heat will destroy the locker and it will very slowly back off and shifting will become impossible.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Hey oldschool,, how's it going?
You would think that a 914 expert would take the time to make sure your shifting is good,, or did it get progressively worse? Because those cone screws DO come loose unless you loc-tite them (GREEN i think),, and using loc-tite isn't reccomended by the factory,, they want you to buy new screws. But I use loc-tite anyways and check on the screws now and then.

-Robert

yeah man, I just text you, I think you know who did the work,I will give him a call and talk to him about the screws
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oldschool
post Sep 24 2010, 01:27 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 23 2010, 08:24 PM) *

When a flywheel is turned, the clutch fork ball stud must be shimmer out with an extra washer and some sealant applied to the threads. This compensates for the clutch package now being farther from the throw out bearing. It's all explained in my 31 pages of notes in the link before.

Does it grind going into reverse?


No grinding I was told that I need new trans mounts. I know that if they are bad it will shift like crap: so (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) btw did you you t-shirt.
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einic
post Sep 24 2010, 04:20 AM
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QUOTE(oldschool @ Sep 23 2010, 04:23 AM) *

So I have 2 question, why is it that it takes so long for my lady (914) to warm up.
after she real warm she idles nice.... but before that it hard to keep it running?
btw she runs real nice.

also I just had the clutch replaced and now it seems to shifts poorly?
all the right busing have been replaced,
when the trans is removed does the shifter get out of whack?



There is an air valve bypassing air to the plenum to help keeping rpm up when cold, gradually closing after startup by an electric heating element, and heat from engine case. If this is blocked, rpm is to lo when cold, and ok when warm. These valves tend to rust and get stuck.
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Jeffs9146
post Sep 24 2010, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE
There is an air valve bypassing air to the plenum to help keeping rpm up when cold, gradually closing after startup by an electric heating element, and heat from engine case. If this is blocked, rpm is to lo when cold, and ok when warm. These valves tend to rust and get stuck.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

AAR Stuck & Repair
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