So I have 2 question, why is it that it takes so long for my lady (914) to warm up.
after she real warm she idles nice.... but before that it hard to keep it running?
btw she runs real nice.

also I just had the clutch replaced and now it seems to shifts poorly?
all the right busing have been replaced,
when the trans is removed does the shifter get out of whack?

try cleaning out the idle jets

FI or carbs??? If FI maybe cold start valve (injector) isn't working...on the clutch, was the flywheel turned? Check the plastic cup under the TO bearing arm? Clutch not adjusted right?

Sounds like a carb setup. This is why the -6 came with pedal linkage.

Mine needs a little help but not bad.

Check to see that the cone screws are tight. I had one back out and thought the shifter was out of adjustment.

No Andy its 1973 1.7 fi I meet you at c$c on Porsche day its the white car.

Rick so is the screen at the rear?

Yes fly wheel was turned.

you try cleaning your idle jets ..... sorry about that its FI

Screen? The linkage has 2 cone screws, 1 at the trans end of the linkage under the cover and the 2nd at the coupling just after the linkage exits the firewall.

Warming the car has to do with the thermostat and flaps, assuming you have a 4.

When the car is cold, try moving the flap 'lever' (the bar that goes under the tin/ has a cable screwed to it). If it easily goes through a full sweep, your thermostat is shot - they fail in the open/ hot position.

Who did the clutch job? I would take it back and have them make sure it works as well as it did BEFORE the work. On the bill there should be a list of parts and generally when pulling the transmission for a clutch job, the linkage is disassembled so new cone screws should be listed. If they were used over then they will come loose. I would look under the car to make sure there are TWO nuts locking the clutch adjuster and not just one nylock nut as the heat will destroy the locker and it will very slowly back off and shifting will become impossible.

Hey oldschool,, how's it going?
You would think that a 914 expert would take the time to make sure your shifting is good,, or did it get progressively worse? Because those cone screws DO come loose unless you loc-tite them (GREEN i think),, and using loc-tite isn't reccomended by the factory,, they want you to buy new screws. But I use loc-tite anyways and check on the screws now and then.

-Robert

HeY! Be nice!
She's new and trying to help.

On shift issue, check clutch cable travel,
Many, MANY times it's too loose, thus gears grinding
While you're checking the set screw in the shfter Rick mention
you can adjust the clutch cable
If needed that is

Check out brad anders site. He has a whole section on idle issues. Aar, both temp sensors, air bleed, idle mix. All pay a role in idle. If it idles well when warm you might want to check the aar first. Could be stuck closed. When cold pull off the intake hose - you should feel vacuum.

When a flywheel is turned, the clutch fork ball stud must be shimmer out with an extra washer and some sealant applied to the threads. This compensates for the clutch package now being farther from the throw out bearing. It's all explained in my 31 pages of notes in the link before.

Does it grind going into reverse?

yeah man, I just text you, I think you know who did the work,I will give him a call and talk to him about the screws

No grinding I was told that I need new trans mounts. I know that if they are bad it will shift like crap: so btw did you you t-shirt.

There is an air valve bypassing air to the plenum to help keeping rpm up when cold, gradually closing after startup by an electric heating element, and heat from engine case. If this is blocked, rpm is to lo when cold, and ok when warm. These valves tend to rust and get stuck.

AAR Stuck & Repair

HAVE YOU TRIED FOREPLAY???

Thanks jeff btw I really like the car your family design