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> engine issue, WEAK ENGINE
914itis
post Oct 15 2010, 03:00 PM
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Ok, I finally got it running and took it for a spin. started fine, put it on gear and took off.

The issue is the engine is weak when i put it on third gear it lost complete power. There is also a sharp rattling noise as i press the gas. I don't get the noise when the car in parked as I accelerate. The car refuses to go up a hill as it becomes weak. any idea of what can be wrong?

I DIDN'T MENTION THAT THERE WAS OIL LEAKING ON TOP OF THE EXHAUST, LEFT AND A LOT OF SMOKE. THE SMOKE IS NOT THE OIL BURNING ON THE MUFFLER. ITS ALL OVER THE CABIN.


ANY SUGGESTIONS?
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jsayre914
post Oct 15 2010, 03:13 PM
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a picture of the undercarrige would help, i bet the oil is comming from a pushrod tube seal. not a huge job, but when you say a lot of smoke comming into the cabin??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

What engine, induction etc etc.
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914itis
post Oct 15 2010, 03:15 PM
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QUOTE(jsayre914 @ Oct 15 2010, 05:13 PM) *

a picture of the undercarrige would help, i bet the oil is comming from a pushrod tube seal. not a huge job, but when you say a lot of smoke comming into the cabin??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

What engine, induction etc etc.

1.7 4 DUAL WEBBER CARBS.

would the push rod oil leak causes the weakness on the engine?
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pcar916
post Oct 15 2010, 03:19 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Oct 15 2010, 01:00 PM) *

The issue is the engine is weak when i put it on third gear it lost complete power. There is also a sharp rattling noise as i press the gas. I don't get the noise when the car in parked as I accelerate. The car refuses to go up a hill as it becomes weak. any idea of what can be wrong?


Does the smoke in the cabin smell like electrical insulation? Stop driving it until you know what that's about.

We need to know a lot more about your car to even start asking things.

- year and engine size
- carburetors or fuel injection?
- Are all of your vacuum hoses on properly and seal like they should?
- Was it running well and this is sudden development?
- Try to list the steps you took to get the car running?
- New fuel or old fuel that's been sitting in the tank a long time?
- Can you tell if the rattling noise in the engine was mechanical or did it sound like really bad spark knock (pre-ignition).

That'll get things started in the right direction!
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messix
post Oct 15 2010, 03:22 PM
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timing advanced too far would make it rattle [ping] and kill power under load. and cause the engine to get hot and do really bad things.

don't drive it like this .
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pcar916
post Oct 15 2010, 03:24 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Oct 15 2010, 01:15 PM) *

would the push rod oil leak causes the weakness on the engine?


Nope. Not until there was no oil and the motor froze up!
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914itis
post Oct 15 2010, 03:34 PM
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QUOTE(pcar916 @ Oct 15 2010, 05:24 PM) *

QUOTE(ppetion @ Oct 15 2010, 01:15 PM) *

would the push rod oil leak causes the weakness on the engine?


Nope. Not until there was no oil and the motor froze up!

Well I just purchased it. Scoffing to the previous owner, his father rebuilt the engine. And he drove it twice since. The only thing I Sid was changed the accelerator cable . The gas is new.
The railing sound is like a lose piece of metal in side the engine
It gets weaker as it gets hot
As for vacuums I am not sure what should be there. I don't see none, just the ones for the heat (hose)
The some smell is not electrical it s the same smoke that I see all over the engine.
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 15 2010, 03:43 PM
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These steps are iterative. More or less.


Change your oil and see if there are metal bits in the oil.

Pull the valve covers and look at the valves. Make sure all the retainers are torqued down properly (4 nuts that hold the valve rockers to the heads. 10 ft/p)

Do a valve adjustment. Are any of the valves way out of spec?

Turn the engine by hand with the plugs out and feel for where (if) you get resistance.

Do compression and leakdown testing (compression testers are cheap, leakdown tester can be rented but you need an air compressor to do it.

Zach
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914itis
post Oct 15 2010, 08:23 PM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 15 2010, 05:43 PM) *

These steps are iterative. More or less.


Change your oil and see if there are metal bits in the oil.

Pull the valve covers and look at the valves. Make sure all the retainers are torqued down properly (4 nuts that hold the valve rockers to the heads. 10 ft/p)

Do a valve adjustment. Are any of the valves way out of spec?

Turn the engine by hand with the plugs out and feel for where (if) you get resistance.

Do compression and leakdown testing (compression testers are cheap, leakdown tester can be rented but you need an air compressor to do it.

Zach


I took it to the old owner's father. He claims that he rebuit the engine and never drove it since. (about 2 years) he say by the sound, the engine is fine, it may be an exhaust issue. he will let me know in the morning. I am waiting impatiently...
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silver74insocal
post Oct 15 2010, 08:37 PM
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are you sure you werent missing 3rd and going straight into 5th? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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914itis
post Oct 15 2010, 08:40 PM
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QUOTE(silver74insocal @ Oct 15 2010, 10:37 PM) *

are you sure you werent missing 3rd and going straight into 5th? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I am sure i did not.. even at 1st it gets weaker as you drive. the hotter it gets the weaker
it gets better when cools off
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Bleyseng
post Oct 16 2010, 07:19 AM
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as Zach says:
check the valve adjustment
check the compression
check the timing
check the AirFuel Ratio as the carb jetting could be way off-too lean so when it gets hotter its even more lean..no power..

Lots of small things can be wrong here but you must go step by step to check and correct em. no magic wand to go "poof its fixed"
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914itis
post Oct 16 2010, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Oct 16 2010, 09:19 AM) *

as Zach says:
check the valve adjustment
check the compression
check the timing
check the AirFuel Ratio as the carb jetting could be way off-too lean so when it gets hotter its even more lean..no power..

Lots of small things can be wrong here but you must go step by step to check and correct em. no magic wand to go "poof its fixed"


Its with the mechanic. O forgot to mention that it was misfirering also.
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 16 2010, 10:46 AM
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If the engine is misfiring and knocking, its not fine. And taking it to the father of the guy you just bought it from is not going to give you an unbiased opinion. Why would a fresh engine be allowed to sit for 2 years? What you are telling me is raising red flags.

Zach
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underthetire
post Oct 16 2010, 11:08 AM
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rattling sounds like timing to me.
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pcar916
post Oct 16 2010, 11:35 AM
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If the engine has to come apart after all else is eliminated...

Depending on the fitting of the pistons and cylinders (i.e. if the pistons are a little oversized and/or the cylinders a bit tight) there could be some piston seizure as well. Seen it with forged pistons that weren't given enough expansion room. Only a problem if they didn't come as a matched set (by a good manufacturer) and they were fitted badly.

It's immediately apparent when the pistons are removed. If they're galled then they're too tight.
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914itis
post Oct 16 2010, 03:03 PM
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QUOTE(pcar916 @ Oct 16 2010, 01:35 PM) *

If the engine has to come apart after all else is eliminated...

Depending on the fitting of the pistons and cylinders (i.e. if the pistons are a little oversized and/or the cylinders a bit tight) there could be some piston seizure as well. Seen it with forged pistons that weren't given enough expansion room. Only a problem if they didn't come as a matched set (by a good manufacturer) and they were fitted badly.

It's immediately apparent when the pistons are removed. If they're galled then they're too tight.




Here is the update,


Compression test result
1-3 100
2-4 150


car starts fine now after swapping plug wire 2 and 4. good power at first take off, after driven for a 5 minutes it starts loosing power , smoking bad and rattling. it feels as if its overheating. I also have oil dripping on both sides... oil trail....

when I open the oil cap there is a lot of smoke I also see sign of oil on the heat-sink like block on top.

I am thinking the head gasket could do that... was thinking of removing the heads tomorrow.... any suggestion will be appreciated....

also would it be easier if I take the engine down to work on the heads..?? of should I attemp to remove them and see whats going on?//

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914itis
post Oct 16 2010, 03:05 PM
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QUOTE(ppetion @ Oct 16 2010, 05:03 PM) *

QUOTE(pcar916 @ Oct 16 2010, 01:35 PM) *

If the engine has to come apart after all else is eliminated...

Depending on the fitting of the pistons and cylinders (i.e. if the pistons are a little oversized and/or the cylinders a bit tight) there could be some piston seizure as well. Seen it with forged pistons that weren't given enough expansion room. Only a problem if they didn't come as a matched set (by a good manufacturer) and they were fitted badly.

It's immediately apparent when the pistons are removed. If they're galled then they're too tight.




Here is the update,


Compression test result
1-3 100
2-4 150


car starts fine now after swapping plug wire 2 and 4. good power at first take off, after driven for a 5 minutes it starts loosing power , smoking bad and rattling. it feels as if its overheating. I also have oil dripping on both sides... oil trail....

when I open the oil cap there is a lot of smoke I also see sign of oil on the heat-sink like block on top.

I am thinking the head gasket could do that... was thinking of removing the heads tomorrow.... any suggestion will be appreciated....

also would it be easier if I take the engine down to work on the heads..?? of should I attemp to remove them and see whats going on?//


I forgot to mention that there is no more misfire
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 17 2010, 01:15 AM
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It could be a head leak that opens up as the engine starts to heat up.

Compression test numbers are an issue. If the engine really is new, it could be that the rings have not yet seated for 1 & 3. But given what else you are saying I don't buy it.

Have you confirmed timing yet?
what grade gas are you using?
Did you do an oil change? Was there metal flake in the oil?

Zach
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914itis
post Oct 17 2010, 07:44 AM
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I just don't buy the new part. He seems like his da was just playing with the engine. He is not experienced. How do I confirm timing? I did not do an oil change. I am about to go and check the oil now. Will update in a few.
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