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> Bee Jay's 914-six Conversion, The car just burned down!
GeorgeRud
post Oct 30 2010, 07:25 AM
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I also have carbs on my conversion, but am rethinking that daily. The problem is that with today's fuels and the difference in the vapor pressure of ethanol laced fuel (currently 10%, proposed 15%), the carbs are going to be more likely to vapor lock. The only way to raise the boiling point of this fuel is to increase the pressure, and there's a reason that all of today's engines are running fuel injection at higher fuel pressures!

With the increased availability of EFI systems (even consider the Bitz conversion for your CIS system), I think it would be a better idea for both performance and mileage. If money isn't an object, PMO has some very nice pieces that let you run fuel injection and keep the look of the Webers.

As much as I love the look of my Webers, I wonder if they are not becoming relics as the available fuels keep changing. You have to remember that the EPA and the gas companies really have no interest in the old car hobby.
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SLITS
post Oct 30 2010, 07:56 AM
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Carbs = 12 mpg

CIS = 22 - 27 mpg

I kept the CIS. Butt simple and when in tune, starts first time everytime, even at 11,000 feet.

I didn't know you could change the dizzy in a simple swap as the 3.0 is hall effect, reverse rotation. I have an 007 dizzy someone was trying to swap the drive gears to make the 007 reverse rotation. Stock 3.0 ignition requires a 6 pin CDI .... can be had used for about $300 if you watch the boards.

Brain ... I don't think so ... just eliminate the Frequency Valve (as in take it out of the fuel lines).

Fuel pump, fuel accumulator and filter can cost some bucks.

Fuel distributor, WUR and injectors can be cleaned (Sorry Cap'n, I will argue with you on this one) with cans of Brake Cleaner and lo pressure air. Most rebuilders won't touch CIS mechanical injectors as there is no money in it for them. I cleaned and flowed my own. I also cleaned my own fuel distributor and WUR. Rebuilts can be had on the FD for about $400 and on the WUR for about $250 if necessary. Nothing else in the system.

I'll take relialibilty over Bling anyday.

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Bee Jay
post Oct 30 2010, 08:53 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Oct 30 2010, 06:56 AM) *

Carbs = 12 mpg

CIS = 22 - 27 mpg

I kept the CIS. Butt simple and when in tune, starts first time everytime, even at 11,000 feet.

I didn't know you could change the dizzy in a simple swap as the 3.0 is hall effect, reverse rotation. I have an 007 dizzy someone was trying to swap the drive gears to make the 007 reverse rotation. Stock 3.0 ignition requires a 6 pin CDI .... can be had used for about $300 if you watch the boards.

Brain ... I don't think so ... just eliminate the Frequency Valve (as in take it out of the fuel lines).

Fuel pump, fuel accumulator and filter can cost some bucks.

Fuel distributor, WUR and injectors can be cleaned (Sorry Cap'n, I will argue with you on this one) with cans of Brake Cleaner and lo pressure air. Most rebuilders won't touch CIS mechanical injectors as there is no money in it for them. I cleaned and flowed my own. I also cleaned my own fuel distributor and WUR. Rebuilts can be had on the FD for about $400 and on the WUR for about $250 if necessary. Nothing else in the system.

I'll take relialibilty over Bling anyday.

I just now figured it out. Yea I'm slow, I rode the little yellow bus. But Slits is Glen of Ron and Glen fame. When I lived in LA, I used to ride all the way out to Riverside for your swap meets. I think I bought half of my 914 parts from you or at your swap meets. How you doing man?
I'm originally from the East Side of San Antonio, so I'll take the bling for now. I'm keeping the CIS stuff, so maybe after I get the conversion running and sorted out a little, I'll upgrade to FI. Keeping it simple for now, like I said, I'm a little slow.
Bee Jay
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patssle
post Oct 30 2010, 10:04 AM
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QUOTE
I'll take relialibilty over Bling anyday.


I'll disagree. My 914 is to enjoy, have fun with. As long as it's decently reliable, which it is with carbs, I rather have the bling!

My water cooled, A/C, heater, radio car is for reliability. The 914 is for fun!
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moparrob
post Oct 30 2010, 12:52 PM
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I've been watching you build, which seems to parallel my own. Nice job!

I'm running a 3.0 also, with the 901 trans, and was wondering if you had made a decision about which flywheel, ring gear and pressure plate/clutch to run. I know that Patrick Motorsports has one, but I was curious if there were any other alternatives out there.

I currently have the stock 3.0 flywheel on the engine and it appears to be in good shape. Thanks for the inspiration, its a lonely world in the six conversion game.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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echocanyons
post Oct 30 2010, 12:59 PM
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Patrick Motorsports sources there conversion ring gear from Kennedy eng. between the two I think those are about the only options out there.

With this you retain your stock flywheel.
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sixnotfour
post Oct 30 2010, 01:57 PM
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call Kennedy you'll save $$$
http://www.kennedyeng.com/index.htm
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rfuerst911sc
post Oct 30 2010, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(moparrob @ Oct 30 2010, 10:52 AM) *

I've been watching you build, which seems to parallel my own. Nice job!

I'm running a 3.0 also, with the 901 trans, and was wondering if you had made a decision about which flywheel, ring gear and pressure plate/clutch to run. I know that Patrick Motorsports has one, but I was curious if there were any other alternatives out there.

I currently have the stock 3.0 flywheel on the engine and it appears to be in good shape. Thanks for the inspiration, its a lonely world in the six conversion game.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)



On my 3.0 conversion I used the original flywheel with a Kennedy Engineering ring gear, Stage II pressure plate and clutch disc with throwout bearing. It all fit perfect and works great with easy clutch feel/engagement and handles the power easily.
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Bee Jay
post Oct 30 2010, 08:56 PM
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QUOTE(Bee Jay @ Oct 30 2010, 07:53 AM) *

QUOTE(SLITS @ Oct 30 2010, 06:56 AM) *

Carbs = 12 mpg

CIS = 22 - 27 mpg

I kept the CIS. Butt simple and when in tune, starts first time everytime, even at 11,000 feet.

I didn't know you could change the dizzy in a simple swap as the 3.0 is hall effect, reverse rotation. I have an 007 dizzy someone was trying to swap the drive gears to make the 007 reverse rotation. Stock 3.0 ignition requires a 6 pin CDI .... can be had used for about $300 if you watch the boards.

Brain ... I don't think so ... just eliminate the Frequency Valve (as in take it out of the fuel lines).

Fuel pump, fuel accumulator and filter can cost some bucks.

Fuel distributor, WUR and injectors can be cleaned (Sorry Cap'n, I will argue with you on this one) with cans of Brake Cleaner and lo pressure air. Most rebuilders won't touch CIS mechanical injectors as there is no money in it for them. I cleaned and flowed my own. I also cleaned my own fuel distributor and WUR. Rebuilts can be had on the FD for about $400 and on the WUR for about $250 if necessary. Nothing else in the system.

I'll take relialibilty over Bling anyday.

I just now figured it out. Yea I'm slow, I rode the little yellow bus. But Slits is Glen of Ron and Glen fame. When I lived in LA, I used to ride all the way out to Riverside for your swap meets. I think I bought half of my 914 parts from you or at your swap meets. How you doing man?
I'm originally from the East Side of San Antonio, so I'll take the bling for now. I'm keeping the CIS stuff, so maybe after I get the conversion running and sorted out a little, I'll upgrade to FI. Keeping it simple for now, like I said, I'm a little slow.
Bee Jay

OK, The Captain corrected me. Your Ron of the Ron and Glenn show. You used to work at Pelican. Remember that wild weekend in Vegas for SEMA about ten years ago? Well SEMA is next week. You going. I'll be there. I never miss SEMA.
Bee Jay
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Bee Jay
post Nov 9 2010, 09:33 PM
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I got restless this past weekend and decided to test fit everything, the engine shroud, engine tin, valve covers, headers, fan and fan housing. I'm glad I did. The fiberglass engine tin required quite a bit of trimming, filing, and drilling. It all fits good now. Now, should I take it off (the engine tin) and paint it black? The current black finish is too obviously fiberglass. I would sand and paint the top side gloss black, but leave the rough backside alone. The shroud will have to come off when I get the wiring harness. How does it look so far?
Bee Jay
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359986.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359988.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359989.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359990.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359991.5.jpg)
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moparrob
post Nov 9 2010, 10:12 PM
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Looks great! My engine is at about the same stage yours is. Valve covers and fan going to the powder coater this month. I also am running ceramic coated headers.

I can't wait to get it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Did you fab that hard oil line under the engine yourself? If not where did you get it?

Also, where will you be venting your crank case to? Does that breather vent to the oil tank?

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Cairo94507
post Nov 10 2010, 07:12 AM
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That is looking sweet; I would definitely remove and paint the engine tin. Very clean job.
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Bee Jay
post Nov 11 2010, 09:40 AM
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QUOTE(moparrob @ Nov 9 2010, 09:12 PM) *

Looks great! My engine is at about the same stage yours is. Valve covers and fan going to the powder coater this month. I also am running ceramic coated headers.

I can't wait to get it running. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Did you fab that hard oil line under the engine yourself? If not where did you get it?

Also, where will you be venting your crank case to? Does that breather vent to the oil tank?

The hard line came with the engine. It gets in the way. I'm new to 911 engines and I don't know yet where this line goes. Can it be replaced with -12 braided hose? I'm going to need help plumbing this puppy to the oil tank. I got the oil tank temporarily mounted inside the fender, but with no lines to it.
Bee Jay
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Eric_Shea
post Nov 11 2010, 10:02 AM
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Glenn works at Pelican.

Ronnie... do tell about the wild weekend at SEMA. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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RFoulds
post Nov 11 2010, 10:38 AM
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Wait. 70's Corvette, ferrari, AND a 914-6?? Soory. two toys per customer. gonna have to give one up.

And I'll take the vette off your hands. Is it L-82 4 speed??
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Bee Jay
post Nov 12 2010, 12:53 AM
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QUOTE(RFoulds @ Nov 11 2010, 09:38 AM) *

Wait. 70's Corvette, ferrari, AND a 914-6?? Soory. two toys per customer. gonna have to give one up.

And I'll take the vette off your hands. Is it L-82 4 speed??

It's an L-82 with four speed alright, 700 R4 four speed. I bought it new in 1979. Check it out here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/garage/197...268-BeeJay.html

Bee Jay
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moparrob
post Nov 12 2010, 01:02 AM
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I still haven't figured out what the best option will be regarding that hard oil line, either. I'm using a stock 914-6 oil tank, so I guess once I get the tank mounted and have the engine installed I will have a better idea of how to connect the two.

Do you know where the crankcase breather connects to??
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sawtooth
post Nov 12 2010, 01:03 AM
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QUOTE(Bee Jay @ Nov 9 2010, 08:33 PM) *

I got restless this past weekend and decided to test fit everything, the engine shroud, engine tin, valve covers, headers, fan and fan housing. I'm glad I did. The fiberglass engine tin required quite a bit of trimming, filing, and drilling. It all fits good now. Now, should I take it off (the engine tin) and paint it black? The current black finish is too obviously fiberglass. I would sand and paint the top side gloss black, but leave the rough backside alone. The shroud will have to come off when I get the wiring harness. How does it look so far?
Bee Jay
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359986.1.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359988.2.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359989.3.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359990.4.jpg)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i52.photobucket.com-3964-1289359991.5.jpg)

That is beautiful, crazy nice work.
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rfuerst911sc
post Nov 12 2010, 05:12 AM
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QUOTE(moparrob @ Nov 11 2010, 11:02 PM) *

I still haven't figured out what the best option will be regarding that hard oil line, either. I'm using a stock 914-6 oil tank, so I guess once I get the tank mounted and have the engine installed I will have a better idea of how to connect the two.

Do you know where the crankcase breather connects to??


On my six conversion I used -16AN braided hose from the tank to the engine mounted cooler. I also added a tee so I can drain the tank by simply removing the tee cap. The rest of the oil lines I used -12AN. I have a front mounted cooler with a Mocal thermostat mounted near the engine and this setup ran cool in the Florida summers.
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jt914-6
post Nov 12 2010, 06:01 AM
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QUOTE(SLITS @ Oct 30 2010, 07:56 AM) *

Carbs = 12 mpg

CIS = 22 - 27 mpg


I have Weber 40's on my 3.0 RS spec engine and am getting 21 mpg....a friend with a stock injected 3.6 isn't getting much better......

EDIT.....took a weekend trip and on the two fill ups using GPS for milage I got 21.9 and 21.2 mpg driving some freeway, two lane roads with some sprited driving mixed in....
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