Phoenix Gold Build, the "NEW" stereo install Options

[jsayre914]

The schematic. I will fit all of this in my 1973 Porsche (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
It will not make it go any faster (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[silver74insocal]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rocking nana.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[jonferns]

How many amps is that?

[Black22]

Just my 2 cents, but I used to be heavy into car audio and was a Sound mixer in Hollywood for 15 years. I was always told that for every 1 subwoofer you put in a car you should have two of every other smaller speaker to have a balanced sound stage. Meaning if you want a 12" sub and 6" mids plus 1" tweeters you should install the 12" with 2 ea of the 6" and 2ea of the 1". That system would sound good if you deleted one of subs and used the 3rd amp for more mid and high range. IMO. It'll sound good the way the schematic shows, it's just overkill on the bass side unless your a mini truck from 1990.
Also I didn't notice any specs on the amps. You don't need a huge amount of power to be loud and clean. I once had a system in my Mustang that used 3 amps that had combined total 135 watts that produced a measured 140dB at a contest. It's not how much you use but how and what you use.

[rick 918-S]

Are you building a car or a stereo? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Never understood need or interest for that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[silver74insocal]

Are you building a car or a stereo? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Never understood need or interest for that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

i feel bad for you

[biosurfer1]

I used to be into car audio big back in the mid 90's, but mostly for SQ...I'm still amazed at how much being into car audio helped me in circuits class while doing my engineering degree.

[MoveQik]

Are you building a car or a stereo? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Never understood need or interest for that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

i feel bad for you

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Of course I had a lowered minitruck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[jsayre914]

Here is the list of what i got:

> CDA 9887 Headunit w/ 4volt preamp output X 3 (im gonna use 2)

> Phoenix PLD1 Line Driver will feed the 2 bass amps

> Phoenix EQ215i Equalizer w/ 15 adjustable frequency controlls for each channel to feed the mid/high amp

> Phoenix XS2500 Amplifier X 2
I will be running one of these for each 12" woofer
Bridged into 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms rated at 300 watts X 1 Continuous output (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
I also have the LPL44 remote bass knob to control both amps
you need adjustment with the top on vs off

> Phoenix XS 4600 Amplifier
This will be for the component set
Bridged into 2 Channels @ 4 Ohms rated at 150 watts X 2

> Phoenix DD5 Desmazes Delayeator
This little Baby turns on and off each amplifier and processor
it has adjustable delayed fused circuits for the remote and power wires to
eliminate any noises when components are turned on or off. (very cool)

> Phoenix RSDC122 12inch Woofers X 2
Each woofer has dual 2ohm voice coils
Rated at 600w Rms / 1200w Peak

> Phoenix RSD 6.5ds Component Speakers
6.5 inch component w/ tweets
Rated at 120w Peak

The Plan:

Headunit goes into the stock position. PLD1 goes in passenger footwell, hidden under carpet. DD5 goes into center console (havent figured that out yet). EQ goes between seats, hidden under center cushion. LPL44 Remote knob mounts to new center console consisting of (Knob/ Temp/ Volt/ GPS) 3 Amplifiers in rear trunk desigend by Me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) 6.5 drivers go into fiberglass kicks i will build. Tweets go on the pillars w/ more glass. Woofers go in front trunk w/ another wood/glass enclosure.

All of it completely hidden from view.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

[Black22]

I'm not sure how the woofers in the trunk will sound. Bass frequencies/sound is about moving air...are you going to port it into the cabin or just move the air around the spare tire. Subs in the rear trunk of a sedan work because the sound transfers through the rear seat padding, although with major attenuation. Your plan sounds pretty solid other than that. Good luck, I'd like to see sics when your done with the install.

[jsayre914]

Step 1 was the power upgrade. 2 Kinetik Batteries and a 120amp alternator. I also beefed up the wiring from the alternator thanks to Jeff Bowlsby (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) And I am running a large ground wire direct from the battery to the alternator. The batteries are wired togeather and the components all get a direct line pos/ neg.

The thread is HERE

Step 2 was the sound deadening project. Second skin products including damplifier, overkill, and luxury liner. Very nice products. I also replaced all the rubber for the targa, doors, windows, (thanks Mikey914) and resealed the rear glass. Still a work in progress

That thread is very recent, but HERE is the link anyway

Step 3 was the Headunit install, Easy Peasy.

Step 4 was the collecting all the equipment and painting it to match the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) I hired a hippe to paint everything. He does the best work.

Here is everything taken apart

The mismached pieces

And the Paint (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Alaska Blue Metallic

[jsayre914]

I'm not sure how the woofers in the trunk will sound. Bass frequencies/sound is about moving air...are you going to port it into the cabin or just move the air around the spare tire.

The Front trunk is ported into the cabin with 2 large round holes that used to be for the heater duct. They fire downward tward your feet on both sides under the dash. I am postive this soundstage works because i have been pushing 1 12 inch sub in the trunk for couple of years now.

I do really appreciate the comments, please keep em commin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jsayre914]

I think the amps came out Awesome, considering I have owned some of em since 1997. Not bad at all. Thanks to our very own ScottyB (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[jsayre914]

Next I started with the PLD1 footwell project. It has LED lighting and needs a piece of Lexan, but i like the way it looks. (stealthy) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif)

[jsayre914]

A little vynal and a quick test fit



Camel carpet thanks to 914 apperance and performance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jsayre914]

I even got new RCA from Stinger Audio (it had to match) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)

[jsayre914]

Here is a closeup of the DD5, it has led lights that will tell you right away if there is a problem with any circuit. My idea is to hide this baby somehow in the center console, but still be able to see the display. I also want room for the GPS in the console. Its gonna be pretty tight in there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Mike Bellis]

I think the amps came out Awesome, considering I have owned some of em since 1997. Not bad at all. Thanks to our very own ScottyB (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I thought you were kidding with all that equipment. If you bought those Amps in the 90's they are good ones. All the good Amps were built in the 90's. New stuff is junk unles you pay $1500 for a McIntosh. Back then they cared about quality and power supplies. Now it's all about price point and chinese parts.

I prefer single amp systems now. I run a Rockford Power 300 in my 914 and a Kenwood PS-500F in my truck.

Please keep posting pics of your system. I'm very curius about your woofer box set up. Front trunk? Remember for best sound your port needs to be tuned 1 octive above or below the resonance frequency of the sealed box. Rockford Fosgate has a great nomogram for plotting port length and diameter. PM me if you want a copy.

[IronHillRestorations]

Nice project Joseph! Your install looks very professional. The paint to match stuff is a very cool touch.

Since the early 90's I always wanted to try and make a very un-obtrusive system that had a baffled, tuned sub enclosure with a dual voice coil woofer in place of the foam footwell insert, tuned enclosures for the stock locations (it does give good stereo imaging), and then surface mount tweeters on the dash to reflect off the windshield. The 914 cabin is so small, I'd be curious to know if/where you'd find standing wave.

IMHO balancing all the speakers and getting the cross overs just right is important. Getting efficient, good sounding speakers makes a world of difference. The funny thing is that many times a great sounding speaker can be somewhat inefficient, like Bose for example.

The Morphenspectra stuff looks very nice too.

[Rod]

Superb! Another 914 sq install (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Nice system list, I can see two problems which you should address. You say that the bass will be coming through to the cabin via the two heater pipe holes... These are just above the kicks correct? I have looked at using these many times but came against a couple of hurdles.. When the front trunk is closed, the front section where your sub is (and everyone elses spare tyre) is sealed from the scuttle area where these holes through to the cabin are. So how does the bass get through?

Secondly as you are running the 6.5s in the kicks, you do not want the air from the sub interfering with the rear of the mid cone. I was going to do some builds with some heater hose as a sort of port, running from the hole in the scuttle down past the back of the mid to vent into the cabin next to it. But only if you can get the bass past the firewall ...

My sub is in the footwell, it's only an eight, yet with 600 McIntosh watts it sounds like a 10 or possibly 12!! My ideal bass solution in the 914 wouldn't to move the fuel tank and install a racing cell where the spare wheel sits. Then use the fuel tank space as the volume for the sub, with the sub mounted on the scuttle firing directly into the cabin.. I will do this next, and have an Image dynamics idw15 15 inch sub to do it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Subscribed!!!!