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> Found a teener, 2 miles from my house
mepstein
post Dec 23 2010, 09:17 AM
Post #81


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Front hood latch attatchment point under cowl - mouse nest held water in pocket. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


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mepstein
post Dec 23 2010, 09:19 AM
Post #82


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Passenger side hellhole was caked with a combination of mouse nest and dirt. Held moisture next to metal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


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mepstein
post Dec 23 2010, 09:21 AM
Post #83


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Driver side hellhole- of course. - Haven't taken a good look at suspention console.


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mepstein
post Dec 31 2010, 10:26 AM
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Current condition. I need to heat up my workshop so the wire harness is flexible and can be removed. Freezing temps make it too stiff to work through the tunnel. Did I just say that? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


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PlaysWithCars
post Dec 31 2010, 11:31 AM
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What about the mechanicals? Any clue on condition of the engine or transmission?
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mepstein
post Dec 31 2010, 11:45 AM
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Ran when brought in to the mechanic but needed a new clutch. Maybe the guys coming for the Jan GTG will want to give it a try?
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mepstein
post Dec 31 2010, 01:25 PM
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"Driving" into the workshop.


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okieflyr
post Dec 31 2010, 03:12 PM
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Mark,

My suggestion will be to leave the car on the ground until the flange nut on the rear axles can get broke loose since they are usually a bi**h even with a cheater pipe. A little pre-planning with some penetrating oil on the fragile or difficult fasteners around the exhaust will help too.

I've had my heater on today so it's 75 degrees in the garage, and the sawzall is breaking a sweat. I just pulled the complete harness out as well, but I could cut the sheetmetal openings to make things easier.
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mepstein
post Dec 31 2010, 05:02 PM
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QUOTE(okieflyr @ Dec 31 2010, 04:12 PM) *

Mark,

My suggestion will be to leave the car on the ground until the flange nut on the rear axles can get broke loose since they are usually a bi**h even with a cheater pipe. A little pre-planning with some penetrating oil on the fragile or difficult fasteners around the exhaust will help too. Good idea - I have no jack anyway

I've had my heater on today so it's 75 degrees in the garage, and the sawzall is breaking a sweat. I just pulled the complete harness out as well, but I could cut the sheetmetal openings to make things easier.


I took my time with the wire harness and labled each conection, took pictures and even made a chart for the guages. I don't know how to read the wire diagram so I'm hoping this pre planning will help things go better when i put it back together. If I was just pulling it out to sell, it would be quick.

I could use a 4x4 piece of metal under the front trunk hinge where it rusted through. front hood release ataches with 2 bolts from the underside. picture is in this thread.
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okieflyr
post Jan 1 2011, 03:58 PM
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I could use a 4x4 piece of metal under the front trunk hinge where it rusted through. front hood release ataches with 2 bolts from the underside. picture is in this thread.
[/quote]

I had already cut the dash and firewall out, but I have a piece that may work.
I can also set aside the driver side suspension console if you want any patch metal for that repair? If not I'll leave it on the trailer going to the scrap yard in a couple weeks.
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mepstein
post Jan 1 2011, 04:23 PM
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[quote name='okieflyr' date='Jan 1 2011, 04:58 PM' post='1412355']
I could use a 4x4 piece of metal under the front trunk hinge where it rusted through. front hood release ataches with 2 bolts from the underside. picture is in this thread.
[/quote]

I had already cut the dash and firewall out, but I have a piece that may work.
I can also set aside the driver side suspension console if you want any patch metal for that repair? If not I'll leave it on the trailer going to the scrap yard in a couple weeks.
[/quote]

Sure, thanks, mark
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mepstein
post Jul 15 2014, 08:35 PM
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Paul P's turn to finish the story


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