Anybody using GT racing fiberglass doors, opinions on durability and how you mounted please Options

[byndbad914]

Anybody using the GT Racing fiberglass doors on their cars? I don't want to go skins and have to climb thru a small window - I want a full door I can attach and open.

http://www.gt-racing.com/pdfs/GTR914.pdf

I am just looking for general fitment and sturdiness - whether the gaps and overall surface finish is perfect doesn't matter as I can bodywork that, just want to know if they have held up well and if the mount locations for the door hinges were in the right spot. GT is not known for overall fit and finish so I am expecting those issues (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also interested in seeing what you used to actually hold it shut since there would be no more handle and latch mechanism - what did you tie into to hold it shut and has your mount concept held up over time. Just screwing a hook into the fiberglass can pull pretty easy so interested in seeing what folks came up with.

Thinking of hacking the longs out of my car finally (only kept them to support stock doors and they are welded to the tube chassis, so I have a full chassis there), mount my rocker covers on a couple Dzuses and have a lightweight door that I can weld a couple bars in to hold the mounting brackets. I think I can get about 100 lbs out of my car without going too crazy. What is left of the longs might be carrying about 50-70lbs based on some other info I got about what they weigh.

[J P Stein]

Just my .02.
I would use Shreidan. I quit dropping weight when I realized I couldn't make the
E Mod minimum. Sheridan's doors were on the list. I do have F&R deck lid from Roger.....nice stuff. Duzs hold nicely on the front. Light but strong....and fit then finish nicely.

[stewteral]

Anybody using the GT Racing fiberglass doors on their cars? I don't want to go skins and have to climb thru a small window - I want a full door I can attach and open.

http://www.gt-racing.com/pdfs/GTR914.pdf

I am just looking for general fitment and sturdiness - whether the gaps and overall surface finish is perfect doesn't matter as I can bodywork that, just want to know if they have held up well and if the mount locations for the door hinges were in the right spot. GT is not known for overall fit and finish so I am expecting those issues (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also interested in seeing what you used to actually hold it shut since there would be no more handle and latch mechanism - what did you tie into to hold it shut and has your mount concept held up over time. Just screwing a hook into the fiberglass can pull pretty easy so interested in seeing what folks came up with.

Thinking of hacking the longs out of my car finally (only kept them to support stock doors and they are welded to the tube chassis, so I have a full chassis there), mount my rocker covers on a couple Dzuses and have a lightweight door that I can weld a couple bars in to hold the mounting brackets. I think I can get about 100 lbs out of my car without going too crazy. What is left of the longs might be carrying about 50-70lbs based on some other info I got about what they weigh.

Hey Tim,

A suggestion would be Rennspeed:
http://www.rennspd.com/Products.asp?Task=S...=13&catID=9
They are door skins, but the quality is good (from my experience with 2 sets of rear flares and rocker panels) and the price is great! With a wee bit of welding (and/or fiber glassing) , you could create a frame that hinges.

For a latch, there are a number of automotive options out there. another option is McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#door-latches/=a72koy

I hope this is helpful,

Terry

[byndbad914]

Guys, not interested in using a skin only. The GT Racing doors have a full door shape and won't be flimsy. Skins will warble significantly without support at all four corners, etc and I want something I can pull a quick release pin and physically open a somewhat sturdy door.

I have Sheridan stuff and know Roger, went to his house when he was in Agoura Hills when I bought my body work and also up north when I rolled up to check his car out again before building my tube chassis setup - really nice guy and I would love if he made full doors, but I only remember him doing skins. I will likely get a roof skin from him and deck lids when the time comes for that.

[J P Stein]

"Roger".....
That's one mistake I'll not make again.

[sixnotfour]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1198307

[byndbad914]

JP - nothing negative meant by my post in any way... just talking about knowing of Roger's stuff and that he is a cool guy to work with. Certainly wish he had full doors v. just skins.

six - wow, that is exactly what I was afraid of with GT. My wing is from them and it is rough... that door appears to be rougher yet. I thought they had some sort of hinge mounting in them but apparently not, they are barren of any mounting reinforcement, etc.

[sixnotfour]

I cant be 100 % they are GT , There is alum blocks glued in the hinge mount area and hole shadows from the mold that indicate where they they may go.

[Randal]

Anybody using the GT Racing fiberglass doors on their cars? I don't want to go skins and have to climb thru a small window - I want a full door I can attach and open.

http://www.gt-racing.com/pdfs/GTR914.pdf

I am just looking for general fitment and sturdiness - whether the gaps and overall surface finish is perfect doesn't matter as I can bodywork that, just want to know if they have held up well and if the mount locations for the door hinges were in the right spot. GT is not known for overall fit and finish so I am expecting those issues (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also interested in seeing what you used to actually hold it shut since there would be no more handle and latch mechanism - what did you tie into to hold it shut and has your mount concept held up over time. Just screwing a hook into the fiberglass can pull pretty easy so interested in seeing what folks came up with.

Thinking of hacking the longs out of my car finally (only kept them to support stock doors and they are welded to the tube chassis, so I have a full chassis there), mount my rocker covers on a couple Dzuses and have a lightweight door that I can weld a couple bars in to hold the mounting brackets. I think I can get about 100 lbs out of my car without going too crazy. What is left of the longs might be carrying about 50-70lbs based on some other info I got about what they weigh.

Can you live with 13lbs?

[byndbad914]

yeah, that is what I have right now, about 12 lbs. I hacked the living daylights out of my early doors. Cantilevering 6lbs off of a couple mount pads and tubes v. 12 lbs probably isn't that much difference, so I am already weighing (how funny, reread for grammar and caught the pun) the idea of just using what I have, keeping just enough door frame to hold the latch and ID tag, and the front door mounts and just hack the longs out from under everything.

I think you and I talked before and you did the same thing to your doors as I did - hacked em up, and then you added back in some bracing. I just let mine flop around when open, when closed they stay in place without any bracing.

[grantsfo]

You know I was thinking of going to fiberglass door skins on my car but from practical standpoint fiberglass has a bunch of issues. I'd have to solid mount skins - I like being able to open doors easily. Steel doors dont wobble or flex even when they are hacked to pieces properly. Magnetic numbers dont stick to fiberglass. Steel offers a little bit more protection. I have to weigh one of my Boxster doors. I know even hacked to death they still feel like boat anchors.

This post has been edited by grantsfo: Dec 22 2010, 05:25 PM

[Randal]

yeah, that is what I have right now, about 12 lbs. I hacked the living daylights out of my early doors. Cantilevering 6lbs off of a couple mount pads and tubes v. 12 lbs probably isn't that much difference, so I am already weighing (how funny, reread for grammar and caught the pun) the idea of just using what I have, keeping just enough door frame to hold the latch and ID tag, and the front door mounts and just hack the longs out from under everything.

I think you and I talked before and you did the same thing to your doors as I did - hacked em up, and then you added back in some bracing. I just let mine flop around when open, when closed they stay in place without any bracing.

I took all the hinges off and replaced them with aluminum channel so saved some weight and (like you) took everything off the doors, including the cross bar braces. BTW if you want the same strength as cross bar braces just use wire and aluminum turnbuckles.

Mine are now bolted to the car and don't open, but not sure whether I want to go the next step of fabricating all the bits to fit a door skin. If i wanted them to open (like you) I'd keep the original hinges , which is so much easier as the door still functions properly and latches correctly.

I think the biggest weight saving thing I can do now is to remove the sail and replace it with fiberglass.

[sww914]

I haven't been happy with any of GT racing's stuff since Hank's kid took over several years ago. Does Getty make them? How about the guy in Hemet, Ca that's all over ebay? His stuff is good.

[Chris Hamilton]

Was that the stuff cliff bought that didn't fit very well?

[sean_v8_914]

John Rogers ran FG doors

[sean_v8_914]

he was on "club" . I dont know if he reads here

[byndbad914]

thanks for the additional info guys. I am not sure about the dude in Hemet, tho' I know I have seen some stuff on the forums regarding him. Getty doesn't list doors for 914s, I know they make 'em for 911s as a buddy had them on his car (Jack Olsen on the bird board). If they did make 'em they would certainly be my source as I know there stuff fits great like Sheridan's stuff does.

Anyone know more about the guy in Hemet area?

Randal - check for weight on the sail panel, I have notes I have been reviewing the past week and I had noted a forum post regarding various weights of parts (it was a thread I had on club regarding weight of the longs awhile back) and the sail I have noted as being about 15 lbs because it is a "hollow" part and Sheridan's replacement is around 4 lbs, so only about 11 lbs save. The rear window is better replaced with thin lexan/similar and that saves about the same weight I believe. Just FYI in case you were expecting that part of the car to be really heavy. For me I am considering spending the $$ on a roof skin from Roger as that is a big savings over a stock roof.

[grantsfo]

I took all the hinges off and replaced them with aluminum channel so saved some weight and (like you) took everything off the doors, including the cross bar braces. BTW if you want the same strength as cross bar braces just use wire and aluminum turnbuckles.

Mine are now bolted to the car and don't open, but not sure whether I want to go the next step of fabricating all the bits to fit a door skin. If i wanted them to open (like you) I'd keep the original hinges , which is so much easier as the door still functions properly and latches correctly.

I think the biggest weight saving thing I can do now is to remove the sail and replace it with fiberglass.

As an FYI SCCA Solo rules don't allow doors to be bolted shut. Not that I think it's a heavily enforced rule but just in case you were not aware. Maybe there is exemption for open top cars that I haven't found?

[J P Stein]

17.2 J

They must be removable.....but not bolted. Dzus are specifically allowed as are pins.

[Randal]

thanks for the additional info guys. I am not sure about the dude in Hemet, tho' I know I have seen some stuff on the forums regarding him. Getty doesn't list doors for 914s, I know they make 'em for 911s as a buddy had them on his car (Jack Olsen on the bird board). If they did make 'em they would certainly be my source as I know there stuff fits great like Sheridan's stuff does.

Anyone know more about the guy in Hemet area?

Randal - check for weight on the sail panel, I have notes I have been reviewing the past week and I had noted a forum post regarding various weights of parts (it was a thread I had on club regarding weight of the longs awhile back) and the sail I have noted as being about 15 lbs because it is a "hollow" part and Sheridan's replacement is around 4 lbs, so only about 11 lbs save. The rear window is better replaced with thin lexan/similar and that saves about the same weight I believe. Just FYI in case you were expecting that part of the car to be really heavy. For me I am considering spending the $$ on a roof skin from Roger as that is a big savings over a stock roof.

I had heard the same thing, i.e., the sail doesn't really save that much, especially if you put on a FG one. Wonder how ugly it would look to totally lose the sail?

I've already taken out the rear window.

Wheels are the next weight saving move.

I don't know where to go for weight savings after that!