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> Need a little help- 914 project., Hell Hole- repair or walk?
C.Plavan
post Jan 1 2011, 05:02 PM
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Rockers look a little different.
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Spoke
post Jan 1 2011, 05:08 PM
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This car looks like an east coast rust bucket. The passenger long is gone on the outside and replaced by a piece of steel.

The firewall is rusted along the entire edge of the floor.

This car should be really cheap to be worth it.

Are you trying to save money and get a car to work on rust-wise, or do you want a 914 to drive?
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Mike Bellis
post Jan 1 2011, 05:10 PM
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Based on the last pictures... Buy a new tub and strip the good parts off that one. Someone has done major work to the longs and not done it correctly. I also see parts chopped off in the engine bay. You will spend way too much making this one right. Buy another roller with less rust. I have a similar car that I'm cutting up due to rust like yours. Your passenger long looks like a hack job, although it may be structually sound.
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brant
post Jan 1 2011, 05:19 PM
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Chad,

good to see you on this board and looking into 914's
I've read your posts frequently on pelican

this car used to be really rusty
someone put a lot of effort into repairing the rust
I'd probably try to form an opinion about that person's abilities to know how good their work was.

as a racer, its not going to be the lightest one because welding and patch panels add weight

looks like a lot of good parts though
not a complete total, but not pristine.
I'm guessing a cage will add back enough of the rigidity, and a suspension console may be necessary... but they aren't that hard to do

just time and money like everything else.

good to see you looking into 914's
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JoeSharp
post Jan 1 2011, 05:20 PM
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Post #21 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) It looks to me like that car has about 1000 pounds of scrapmetal.
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C.Plavan
post Jan 1 2011, 05:35 PM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Jan 1 2011, 03:08 PM) *

This car looks like an east coast rust bucket. The passenger long is gone on the outside and replaced by a piece of steel.

The firewall is rusted along the entire edge of the floor.

This car should be really cheap to be worth it.

Are you trying to save money and get a car to work on rust-wise, or do you want a 914 to drive?


Very true, after seeing those rockers, there was a reason those were put on. Thanks for confirming my suspicions.

QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Jan 1 2011, 03:10 PM) *

Based on the last pictures... Buy a new tub and strip the good parts off that one. Someone has done major work to the longs and not done it correctly. I also see parts chopped off in the engine bay. You will spend way too much making this one right. Buy another roller with less rust. I have a similar car that I'm cutting up due to rust like yours. Your passenger long looks like a hack job, although it may be structually sound.


Again, thanks for all this- I appreciate all the help and insight.

QUOTE(Joe Sharp @ Jan 1 2011, 03:20 PM) *

Post #21 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) It looks to me like that car has about 1000 pounds of scrapmetal.


LOL not good for a race car!


Brant- You have a PM
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 1 2011, 07:28 PM
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I would want to see pictures of the existing repairs in progress before I felt comfortable about building that chassis into a fast -6 race car.
More than likely, those pictures would convince me to keep looking.
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J P Stein
post Jan 1 2011, 07:35 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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MrHyde
post Jan 1 2011, 10:59 PM
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Those last pics look like what was done to my car before the "repair" pieces rusted out... Those are the same parts I'm cutting out and putting in proper sheet metal...
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SirAndy
post Jan 1 2011, 11:18 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jan 1 2011, 05:28 PM) *
More than likely, those pictures would convince me to keep looking.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Looks like your typical "Hey, what should i do with this old rust-bucket? I know, let's build a race-car!"
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)
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hot_shoe914
post Jan 1 2011, 11:57 PM
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Well, since nobody else asked, I will. Does that motor that is in it come with it? If so, what kind of shape is the motor in. Looks like a six to me, might be worth the money. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 2 2011, 06:12 AM
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QUOTE(hot_shoe914 @ Jan 2 2011, 12:57 AM) *

Well, since nobody else asked, I will. Does that motor that is in it come with it? If so, what kind of shape is the motor in. Looks like a six to me, might be worth the money. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


From Chad's 2nd post:
QUOTE
Its a 1973 roller with side shift trans (condition unknown), no hood or rear decklid, no seats or any interior.

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C.Plavan
post Jan 2 2011, 10:01 AM
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That was a 911 2.2L he had it in there to mock up an engine mount. It was something he designed. I would not of trusted the mount, and he did not either. I have an extra 2.5L 911 short stroke race motor that I plan on using.

This car might be to much of a "Hack" for what I am looking to do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
I really wanted to make a 914-6 GT clone. This car has its windshield cut off.
It's front susp is from a 911SC (with brakes). Rear 5 hub. Old Fuel Safe cell (square, not OEM position).
I'm just trying to figure out if I should buy it for parts.

To bring a little happiness to this thread, here is my 911ST race car that I just completed a makeover on. With English Wheel rear steel flares done locally.
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detoxcowboy
post Jan 2 2011, 10:01 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) This thread started with a small hole.... This is exactly why you have to investigate thouroughly.
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J P Stein
post Jan 2 2011, 10:30 AM
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That's one nice 9eleben. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
As for a parts car, I'd wait till you after find something you want. From what I could see, the other car will still be around..& cheeper....if you still need parts.
Too many "ughknowns" to trust anything on it.
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C.Plavan
post Jan 2 2011, 12:05 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jan 2 2011, 08:30 AM) *

That's one nice 9eleben. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
As for a parts car, I'd wait till you after find something you want. From what I could see, the other car will still be around..& cheeper....if you still need parts.
Too many "ughknowns" to trust anything on it.


Thanks- I love that Blue monster.

Would it change your mind if the 914 had a fully welded in roll cage already done by a well known professional in the area? The cage is not a hack job. Its good. It is also tied to the susp points. Would you overlook the rockers knowing the car is stiff?
The car is priced well under the cost of the cage itself, full 911 susp, sway bar, fuel safe fuel cell, two setrab oil coolers, rear 5 lug, rear Bilstein coil overs.
What would you consider a "good" deal? $1800 or less?
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Mike Bellis
post Jan 2 2011, 12:18 PM
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Buy it for parts. cut the cage out carefully and re use it. Pull the other stuff off too. Then find a cheap roller with less rust to build from.
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J P Stein
post Jan 2 2011, 12:44 PM
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QUOTE(C.Plavan @ Jan 2 2011, 10:05 AM) *


Thanks- I love that Blue monster.

Would it change your mind if the 914 had a fully welded in roll cage already done by a well known professional in the area? The cage is not a hack job. Its good. It is also tied to the susp points. Would you overlook the rockers knowing the car is stiff?
The car is priced well under the cost of the cage itself, full 911 susp, sway bar, fuel safe fuel cell, two setrab oil coolers, rear 5 lug, rear Bilstein coil overs.
What would you consider a "good" deal? $1800 or less?


That is, obviously, your quandary.
The car's chassis itself I wouldn't trust, flat out. The rockers are scary. The cage, as you describe *now*, does make it interesting, however. If you feel it can be removed without buggering to badly then yes, that is a good price....IF you know the cage was built by a pro....for sure.

The car was mis-represented from the git-go it seems or maybe , giving the benefit of the doubt, we didn't have enough info to make a judgment.

The problem I have (and you're probably the same) is when I see poor workmanship in one area the rest becomes suspect.....even parts. When you dig into a car to "make it your own" you shouldn't be surprised to find more shi....stuff not up to snuff. Your 9eleben show you to be the kind of guy that is gonna dig & fix.
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C.Plavan
post Jan 2 2011, 01:03 PM
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Earlier, I was more concerned with that rust hole, I figured a good eye would of seen the cage in some pictures. He just sent me the pics of the rockers yesterday.
So yes, I'm just trying to figure out if will be worth the headache- I'm going back and forth.
I would prefer a better chassis but the extras have me still thinking about it.

What's the cost of a complete 911 front susp nowadays? I have not priced that in years.
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 2 2011, 03:38 PM
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QUOTE(C.Plavan @ Jan 2 2011, 02:03 PM) *

Earlier, I was more concerned with that rust hole, I figured a good eye would of seen the cage in some pictures. He just sent me the pics of the rockers yesterday.
So yes, I'm just trying to figure out if will be worth the headache- I'm going back and forth.
I would prefer a better chassis but the extras have me still thinking about it.

What's the cost of a complete 911 front susp nowadays? I have not priced that in years.

The one pic of the drivers side floor shows a small portion of the cage. From what little I can see of it, I'm not impressed. The main hoop is located such that a full circumferential weld at the base looks impossible, and the visible door bar indicates a flat x-brace design. Outwardly bent X or Nascar bars would be much better IMO.
In the same picture I see more patchwork at the bottom of the firewall. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

A price of $1800 sounds very reasonable with all that's included.
Good roll cage - $2000+
Sportsman cell - $800+ (is it in good internal condition though? Unleaded kills fuel cell foam and rubber)
SC front end - $500.
Rusty tub - minus $500.
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