Remove Engine, How High Do I Need to Lift the Car to Get Engine Out |
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Remove Engine, How High Do I Need to Lift the Car to Get Engine Out |
Drums66 |
Sep 2 2011, 12:12 PM
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#21
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914 Rudiments Group: Members Posts: 5,321 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Coronado,Cali Member No.: 151 Region Association: Southwest Region |
.....Get that Porsche butt.....way-up in the air (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 2 2011, 07:11 PM
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#22
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The rear of the car needs to be about 2" higher than it will go with regular jack-stands on the "donuts" and the front wheels on the ground. That's assuming you pull the intake and oil filler off the engine, but forget the dipstick (D'OH!) and have the engine sitting on a floor jack with a piece of wood for a cushion. Then, if you're motivated, you can push the back of the car up a little higher by hand while your buddy pulls the engine the rest of the way out.
If you put the engine down on a dolly, or a piece of wood, or some such, you'll have more clearance. If you have any question at all about the clearance available, just remove everything from the top of the engine. Carbs, manifolds, distributor, oil filler, dipstick. You need less clearance that way. Make sure to cover the openings so you don't drop dirt or tools or fasteners down into the engine. --DD |
Kirmizi |
Sep 2 2011, 08:06 PM
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#23
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 836 Joined: 12-February 06 From: Wyoming, US Member No.: 5,568 Region Association: None |
Having done this recently, I'd suggest taking some pics with a digital camera so you have a reference point for the inevitable "hmm, where'd this go" moments during reassembly.
Mike |
VaccaRabite |
Sep 2 2011, 08:26 PM
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#24
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
High.
I put my jackstands on 4x4 timbers. Make sure the car is stable! Give it a good shake test. Pulling the engine is not hard. Its easier to raise the car off the engine then to lower the engine out of the car. A lifting plate from Tangereen (Racer Chris here on the boards) makes it easier still. The first time is intimidating. it gets easier after that. Pulling the engine is not all that hard. Unhooking everything is what is the PITA. Zach |
bigkensteele |
Sep 2 2011, 08:26 PM
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#25
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Major Member Group: Members Posts: 2,197 Joined: 30-August 04 From: Cincinnati, OH Member No.: 2,660 Region Association: South East States |
I swear by the "threaded rod" method. You get the car up on stands and then put your jack under each side of the engine bar. Remove the nut and bolt and replace with 18" piece of 3/8" threaded bar with a double nut on the top, and a nut with a flat washer on the bottom. Then you put your jack under the end of the tranny. This allows for COMPLETE control of the lowering process at 3 points. AND no problem whatsoever doing it alone. You just loosen the bottom nut on each side incrementally to lower the front of the engine and lower the jack to move the back.
Works just as well to get it back in. Sure it takes a while to crank down/up all those threads if you use a regular wrench, but I bought a cheap set of ratcheting wrenches from HF, and it is all good. I lower it straight down onto an HF furniture dolly, and I can wheel it right out. My problem was getting it up onto an engine stand. Mine was so covered with grime that I was not about to ask a couple of friends to come over and risk a hernia or possible smashed foot to get it up there, so I had to rent an engine hoist. 30 bucks, problem solved in less than an hour. Now that it is all clean, and the chance of dropping it due to hands slipping on grease is greatly diminished, I may lower it back down using the "friend" method. |
larss |
Sep 2 2011, 11:06 PM
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#26
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Member Group: Members Posts: 428 Joined: 10-September 09 From: Sweden Member No.: 10,787 Region Association: Scandinavia |
I swear by the "threaded rod" method. You get the car up on stands and then put your jack under each side of the engine bar. Remove the nut and bolt and replace with 18" piece of 3/8" threaded bar with a double nut on the top, and a nut with a flat washer on the bottom. I use the "threaded rod" (M10 rod) method also, this is since Im alone and it is a safe method for both me and the engine. I use a second jack at the front which lifts/lowers the engine so the rods are mostly unloaded (and really just there for safety) making it easy to twist the rod nuts by hand as the engine goes up or down. /Lars S (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.lsmteknik.se-10787-1315026941.1.jpg) |
rhodyguy |
Sep 3 2011, 08:23 AM
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#27
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,090 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
with carbs on a 4 if you remove the carbs as an assembly leaving the linkage intact you'll buy yourself a bunch of room and preserve your current linkage adjustment. remove the 8 nuts securing the carbs to the intakes, disconnect the throttle cable, lift carbs off, and a paper towel in each runner to keep stray items out of the engine.
k |
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