Bulkhead 6 Motor Mount!, Update to Brakes Pressure Regulator! Now W/bulkhead photos! Options

[Jeffs9146]

OK I got my Maddog mount and it looks like I am still having to do more than just weld it in!

What did you guys do with the Brake Proportioning Valve? Also, how high do I mount this? It looks like it will have to be high to clear the heater pulls?

[McMark]

70-74 cars have the P-valve mounted on this rib.

[Jeffs9146]

So what should I do for my 75? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Maddog advertizes that it works on "early & late cars"! So I guess I have to make some brake line extensions to move everything over???

[SLITS]

Depending upon what you are going to run ....

Carbed or MFI engines .... center the mount to the centerline of the car and set the shelf 7" above the lower body seam.

CIS engines .... same procedure, but set the shelf height at 6.5"

You need to move the valve or use a "t" fitting and remove it. However, if you remove the valve, Admin Eric and a couple of others will tell you you are going to die as the rear brakes will lock up before the fronts and send you spinning wildly into the oncoming traffic or somewhere.

I run a "t" so don't listen to me as I will probably be dead before you read this.

[sww914]

I'm already dead once from that. I was a nice guy last time around, after the resurrection I thought I'd try something different.

[Jeffs9146]

Depending upon what you are going to run ....

Carbed or MFI engines .... center the mount to the centerline of the car and set the shelf 7" above the lower body seam.

CIS engines .... same procedure, but set the shelf height at 6.5"

You need to move the valve or use a "t" fitting and remove it. However, if you remove the valve, Admin Eric and a couple of others will tell you you are going to die as the rear brakes will lock up before the fronts and send you spinning wildly into the oncoming traffic or somewhere.

I run a "t" so don't listen to me as I will probably be dead before you read this.

7" would put the lower part of the mount below the lower body seam!?? It is a CIS motor but I am modifing the injection to fit without cutting or lowering!

I read the coments about the rear brakes locking up and I may have to join you in death (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) unless someone else has any other ideas! I will be upgrading to larger fronts later but not right away!

Here is a photo with the tape messure!

[MDG]

So what should I do for my 75? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Maddog advertizes that it works on "early & late cars"! So I guess I have to make so brake line extensions to move everything over???

On my '76 conversion I moved it over to the same location as on my '73 - the area Mark shows in that pic. It wasn't hard at all. I changed the hard lines accordingly. You can get new hard lines from a VW dealership with the proper flares. I measured exactly how long I needed, gave them the measurements and two days later picked them up and bent as required. Just get a good tube bender.

[kconway]

I'm doing this too. Eric sent me these for placement of the regulator. You'll need an early regulator or valve and the hardlines.

Kev

[SLITS]

Depending upon what you are going to run ....

Carbed or MFI engines .... center the mount to the centerline of the car and set the shelf 7" above the lower body seam.

CIS engines .... same procedure, but set the shelf height at 6.5"

You need to move the valve or use a "t" fitting and remove it. However, if you remove the valve, Admin Eric and a couple of others will tell you you are going to die as the rear brakes will lock up before the fronts and send you spinning wildly into the oncoming traffic or somewhere.

I run a "t" so don't listen to me as I will probably be dead before you read this.

7" would put the lower part of the mount below the lower body seam!?? It is a CIS motor but I am modifing the injection to fit without cutting or lowering!

I read the coments about the rear brakes locking up and I may have to join you in death (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) unless someone else has any other ideas! I will be upgrading to larger fronts later but not right away!

Here is a photo with the tape messure!

That's what a grinder is for. I cut that "tab" so that the bottom rested on the seam and welded it in. I also welded all around the mount ... no bolts ... just welds.

Unless he modified the mount, you may have to open up the cutout for the main loom gooseneck to go through. I had to on a '70 conversion ... didn't have to on the '74 conversion.

[IronHillRestorations]

K. Conway has a Rich Johnson mount, not Maddog.

[kconway]

K. Conway has a Rich Johnson mount, not Maddog.

Yes, sorry I wasn't paying attention. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I thought they were the same until I saw the photo posted above. Photos are of Eric Shea's mount but I am using a RJ also.

Kev

[MikeSpraggi]

I don't have a Maddog mount and I am running a T in the rear .... sure death. I'm going with a bias adjuster somewhere in the cabin.

[Eric_Shea]

I thought they were the same

They are basically. All copies of the Vellious (sic) mount.

Get an early style "PRESSURE REGULATOR" (it's not a proportioning valve as it doesn't proportion anything) and get the early lines too. Do not follow my picture, do what McMark says and mount it on that rib. Here's how:

1. Mock install the lines. There are two clips that should be on the firewall, one for each side. These (if they're still there) should help hold the lines in place.

2. Hold the pressure regulator up to where the lines would meet it and mark the loaction on that rib.

3. While you are in there welding the motor mount in, weld two 8x1.25x20 fasteners on that rib in the proper location (take said valve under there with you to ensure they are in the proper location.

Then sit back... have a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) and revel in the fact that you did it right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

70-74 cars have the P-valve mounted on this rib.

The switch was made in 74 so... a lot of 74 cars have the late model location.

[Jeffs9146]

They are basically. All copies of the Vellious (sic) mount.

Get an early style "PRESSURE REGULATOR" (it's not a proportioning valve as it doesn't proportion anything) and get the early lines too. Do not follow my picture, do what McMark says and mount it on that rib. Here's how:

1. Mock install the lines. There are two clips that should be on the firewall, one for each side. These (if they're still there) should help hold the lines in place.

2. Hold the pressure regulator up to where the lines would meet it and mark the loaction on that rib.

3. While you are in there welding the motor mount in, weld two 8x1.25x20 fasteners on that rib in the proper location (take said valve under there with you to ensure they are in the proper location.

Then sit back... have a and revel in the fact that you did it right.

Lennie and I just decided that we have everything on his parts car to convert the "regulator" and lines to earlier stuff!

As long as 7" is the location for the mount then I can work with what I have, cutting and grinding around everything!

Any other coments on the hight above the lower body seam are welcome!!!

[Eric_Shea]

I'm going with a bias adjuster somewhere in the cabin.

This isn't about bias on a 914. It's about saftey. That valve has nothing to do with bias.

A mid engine car has polar moment inertia (think spinning top). It's tough to get it to spin but, when it does... you're screwed. This valve prevents your rears from locking, causing spin in a panic stop.

A "Bias Valve" can only "restrict" fluid movement to the rears (you can't really hook it up backward). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Our rear brakes are small (matched perfectly to the fronts by those dumb guys at the Porsche factory). You want your rears working 100%... 99.9% of the time. The only time you don't want them working is in a panic stop. This is when your pressure regulator kicks in.

Another way to look at it is: 70 + 30 = 100%

Now... add a bias control valve and give it a turn: 70 + 20 = 90% Give it another turn: 70 + 10 = 80%

I'd rather have 100% of my brakes being used when I come into a corner. Especially these brakes. Just say'n. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Any other coments on the hight above the lower body seam are welcome!!!

Mock install the lines and let them be your guide... or, check on the parts car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Jeffs9146]

Mock install the lines and let them be your guide... or, check on the parts car.

Thanks Eric! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/KMA.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

I ment the motor mount!

[Eric_Shea]

I ment the motor mount!

Hmmmmmmmm... hard to say with that one. As you can see in the yellow pics above, my RJ mount is against the floor pan. It measured out that way using the instructions (something like the shelf 7" up from the floor pan if I recall??) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Lennies914]

Any other coments on the hight above the lower body seam are welcome!!!

Mock install the lines and let them be your guide... or, check on the parts car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Jeff,

I think Eric is refering to the pre-drilled holes in the mount for the brake line. Check the shelf height with that hole lined up and see if you get the 7" Slits mentioned.

[Jeffs9146]

Any other coments on the hight above the lower body seam are welcome!!!

Mock install the lines and let them be your guide... or, check on the parts car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Jeff,

I think Eric is refering to the pre-drilled holes in the mount for the brake line. Check the shelf height with that hole lined up and see if you get the 7" Slits mentioned.

I held up the mount and the holes don't mean anything on the 75 so it won't help in establishing the proper engine hight to weld the mount!