Newbie with (I assume) common questions!...with intro pictures! Options

[billh1963]

I've been a long time 911 owner but have decided I want a 914/4 as a "hobby" car. I was going to buy an older 911SC; however, I rode in a friend's 914 a few weeks ago and decided that's the car for me!

So, I have several questions. I did a search with success in some areas and no luck in others. My questions are as follows:

• I have some mechanical experience....how hard are the cars to work on?
• Are 914's like most cars in that you should buy the best you can afford?
• Other than hell holes, rockers, and floor pans are there any other "gotcha!" places to look for rust?
• I know this is subjective; but, is any year just "better" than another?
• Is a car that still has its original fuel injection better than one that has been converted to carbs?

Since everyone likes pictures I have attached pictures of my previous 911's and my current one:

My 993 C4S....the car I should have kept!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i268.photobucket.com-12871-1301594458.1.jpg)

2004 996 40th Anniversary...sold

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i268.photobucket.com-12871-1301594459.2.jpg)

2006 997 Carrera...current

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i268.photobucket.com-12871-1301594459.3.jpg)

[messix]

'73 2.0L is the favored car. Lighter and first year of the 2L.

The suspension mounts in the rear and rust in the longetudnals are places to look carefully.

Pelican has a good buyers guide in thier 914 forum

[matthepcat]

My opinion is always buy to the level of project you are looking for. Visit the recommended Pelican page mentioned above.

Think in the terms of future too. Do you think you will ever want to convert a different engine, or keep it stock?

If you think the first option, buy one that is done or almost done. In the end you will save $, unless you have lots of $$ to spend and a very unique idea.

[Mike Bellis]

If you have $20k, you should buy Elliot Cannon's car. It's all done and very cheap. I think he is running a 3.2L.
Look in the classifieds here http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1451716

[type47]

In my opinion. looking at your past and present cars. I think you will be disappointed in a 914, in my opinion. You have already tasted FAST and I don't think a 914 will satisfy you from what you're used to. Also consider non-galvanized body, probably no air conditioning and lack of HP. Many people I see new to 914's almost immediately ask "What can I do for more power" and I've seen so many people get out of 914's after owning them for a short time. If you're going to get a really nice example, it'll cost ... 8-12k? not pocket change for me. Then you'll have 2 cars to drive and one might get rarely used. I just wanted to express my OPINION but good luck on whatever you decide to do and ...
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[Andyrew]

Rear trunk by the lights typically has rust due to poor drainage, but this is an easy fix.
Rear suspension "ear" has potential for stress cracks that can be dangerous.

Bla bla bla. You should tell us how much your looking to spend and what kind of car your looking for. (Totally stock, semi modded, fully modded street machine [like Elliots car]) and we can probably steer you to some nice examples. Its a much better deal if you get a car thats already done, or a project car with lots of spares/upgrade pieces (With a body thats already been gone through) if your looking for an actual project.

Most have been modified beyond their original engine/ect so its the body that is important with the modifications your looking for.

Fuel injection is better.

[moparrob]

Fuel injection is better.

Better for what...

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[Andyrew]

Everything (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[billh1963]

Thank you for the replies.

Let me start by saying I pretty much love all cars....I have owned over 60 cars in the last 26 years....including a couple of old beetles. I am a degreed engineer and love mechanical things...I don't even own a quartz watch!

Speed isn't a big thing for me. My other current cars include a 2006 Ford F-250 Turbodiesel, a 1989 Alfa Romeo Graduate and a 1966 Thunderbird. None one of them are classified as fast! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm into stock cars. The only mods I typically make are for safety (I upgraded my t-bird to a dual master cylinder) or for reliability to address known weaknesses. At this point I am open to either a really nice stock example or a really solid "tired" car that needs minor to moderate restoration.

I hope that helps give a little more clarity to the questions I was asking.

[ConeDodger]

In my opinion. looking at your past and present cars. I think you will be disappointed in a 914, in my opinion. You have already tasted FAST and I don't think a 914 will satisfy you from what you're used to. Also consider non-galvanized body, probably no air conditioning and lack of HP. Many people I see new to 914's almost immediately ask "What can I do for more power" and I've seen so many people get out of 914's after owning them for a short time. If you're going to get a really nice example, it'll cost ... 8-12k? not pocket change for me. Then you'll have 2 cars to drive and one might get rarely used. I just wanted to express my OPINION but good luck on whatever you decide to do and ...
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DIS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Sorry Jim but I have to disagree. I have chased Elliot through the backroads of Sonoma County. Him in the Zonker me in the Bumblebee Racer. Him 3.2 me 2.7. We were FLYIN' which is ok because we both have pilots licenses (Elliot used his a lot more than I used mine). He probably would have left me in his vapor trail if it wasn't for the broken shock he had! I own a 911 as well and these cars with a good 4 cylinder (think 2270 or even 2056) or a healthy 6 cylinder are scary fast...

[Andyrew]

Thank you for the replies.

Let me start by saying I pretty much love all cars....I have owned over 60 cars in the last 26 years....including a couple of old beetles. I am a degreed engineer and love mechanical things...I don't even own a quartz watch!

Speed isn't a big thing for me. My other current cars include a 2006 Ford F-250 Turbodiesel, a 1989 Alfa Romeo Graduate and a 1966 Thunderbird. None one of them are classified as fast! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm into stock cars. The only mods I typically make are for safety (I upgraded my t-bird to a dual master cylinder) or for reliability to address known weaknesses. At this point I am open to either a really nice stock example or a really solid "tired" car that needs minor to moderate restoration.

I hope that helps give a little more clarity to the questions I was asking.

Whats your budget? We can probably point you towards a good car in your budget as between all of us we are aware of most of the 914's for sale on the market.

[Andyrew]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=115659
This would be a great starting project if you want an actual start to finish project. Put 5k into a 2056 motor (with stock injection), 1k into a rebuilt trani (Attend one of DR Evils trani rebuild seminars. 1k into suspension and brake rebuilding, 1.5k into interior and seals, 2k into paint, 1k in wheels and tires and about 1.5 years of weekend work and you have yourself a car that you built the way you want it and that shows your love and dedication towards it. This would be a fully rebuilt car, aka a NEW 914.


However if you want to get a nice DONE 914 to just drive, a good place to start is below.
http://www.camp914.com/carsforsale.html
Craig @ Camp 914 typically has very nice examples for sale.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=116394
This is a FINE example. WORTH the money.

[Pat Garvey]

I will disagree with most posts here. If you loved the ride in the 914, you should go for it. I've had 2 911's & a wonderful 924 (yeah guys, rag on me - but it ate a lot ove hotshoe 911's in the day in autocross - but was modified). My 911's are gone, and I still miss them. But my 914, which I bought new will always stay with me.

Why? Simplicity. It's the 356 od the modern era. Ant fool can make it work.

Now, I would suggest that the '73 2.0 is the perfect 914 four cylinder car. Has the most output & is still easy to maintain. You'll have to spend some bucks for a ready-to-run resto, but it's worth it. Take a stock 2 liter, lower it an inch. swaybar it and you have performance that can bring smiles.

Regardless of the posts from other guys, you'll be happy with a 914. The 911 thing...so what! Been there, done that & guess what's still in my garage? 914, and it's stock.
Pat

[jmill]

If you like your Alfa you'll like the 914. Comparing the two I'd say the 914 corners better and swaps ends a bit worse. It's lower wider and doesn't feel like it leans as much. Your Alfa is peppier than a stock 914. The Alfa gearing seems perfect and you have the right gear for every corner. The 914 stock gearing isn't quite there.

I say go for it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Tom_T]

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Here's my 2 cents .....

* I have some mechanical experience....how hard are the cars to work on?
Not hard, plus there are a few "experts" on 914s in your area if you want to take it to a shop. One of the reasons which I looked for a 2.0 H4 back in 75 when I got mine, was that I figured that I could always find somebody who worked on aircooled VWs in Podunk wherever with parts & know how to get me to a real Porsche+Audi dealer in a pinch on longer & XC trips, and the 2.0 was engineered by Porsche from the 1.7L, because VW thought the 1.8 was as far as they could get it!

* Are 914's like most cars in that you should buy the best you can afford?
Yes - unless you're looking for something to work on & tinker with, restore, etc.

* Other than hell holes, rockers, and floor pans are there any other "gotcha!" places to look for rust?
In addition to the suggestions above - remove the steering rack cover & look for rust up under there - esp. at the brackets for the steering cross member, F cowl to fender joints - remove seals & look into joints, trunk floors F & R, remove the seals at the trunks & check channel for rust, remove the outer door seals on the door & look in channel & door bottoms, around the windshield, rear of floor pans below rear window (esp. if the rear window rattles or is loose) F & R door jambs & all nooks-n-crannies therein, around the windshield moulding, at sail mouldings at roll bar (esp. with vinyl/chrome trim), around taillights & rear of R trunk below same, & on 73-76 MYs look behind the engine bay firewall heat/sound pad for rust on the firewall & engine shelf there.

* I know this is subjective; but, is any year just "better" than another?
IMHO the 73 2.0 is best, but then I highly prejudiced having owned mine since 75 - the 70-71 (-72 very few) 914-6 is the most rare & preferred by many (3000+ built), and then the 73-74 914/4 2.0L is the next best with nearly the same HP (110 hp stock -6 vs. 95 hp stock 2.0 -4 in USA spec or 100 hp with Euro heads), but better TQ lower in & across the range (you have to wind up the -6 pretty high to get the same TQ). Within that 73-74, there are the 1000+/- 74 LEs that are unique for paint & details, and the early 73 MY 2.0s came "fully loaded" with pretty much all available options included in the Appearance & Performance Group option packages (including the F&R sway bars Pat mentions & the 10# lightweight forged alloy Fuchs "2L" wheels) - & most of the USA 73 MY 2.0s came so equipped. The USA distributors marketed the early 73 MY 2.0's as the "914 S" - although Porsche in Germany didn't buy off on it & made them drop it in early 73. Some of the very early 73 2.0's had the black vinyl on the A-pillar/Windscreen Frame as well for the first 1100 or so VINs (1103 is confirmed), as well as those made in Aug-Sept having a mix of the 72 MY parts, such as chrome interior door handle cup surrounds (instead of black plastic) & chrome window winder base, different air cleaner box top (embossing simplified over time), etc.

* Is a car that still has its original fuel injection better than one that has been converted to carbs?
IMHO stock EFI is best for a 914 you're keeping as original &/or for Concours, but if you're looking for a mildly hopped up H4 (e.g.: a Raby 2056 or 2270, etc.), then you'll get more HP with dual carbs, but then you're back to synchronizing carbs that the EFI intended to get around in the first place. A 2056 with stock EFI gets about 115 hp, while carbed can be built to 125 ro 140 hp & more wile more displacement up to 250+ hp in some race motors.

Here are some websites with great info on 914s, in addition to the 914 Info section at the top here, and the Originality & History Forum's various topics:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/
(the above also has a PPI check list in its many pages that Jeff has compiled)
http://www.bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/
p914.com

Info on early 73 MY -
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=61696&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=67816&st=0

"914S" Info -
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=107851&st=

There is an early 73 2.0 with the A-pillar vinyl sorta near you FS now in Columbus GA, that the 26 year owner needs to sell due to moving. It's not perfect & needs some work to get back to original, and needs a good PPI to be sure it's solid, but is priced reasonably from what I can tell (not related nor have I seen/driven it).
It's listed here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...20&t=117270

Others have also given you a variety of FS links, depending upon your druthers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

PS - in some states some MYs are exempt from smog &/or other certifications, such as CA is exempt for 75 & earlier - so that also may make a difference, in addition to the 75-76 2.0 dropping to 86 hp due to smog eqpt. & they have the big black "rubber" 5 mph impact bumpers (some prefer those).

Good Luck & post lotsa pix of what you get!
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[avidfanjpl]

Buy the best 1973 2.0L you can find.

I did, and I skipped a lot of heartache, but not all of it.

It took a full 2 years to get it to this.

John

[abnrdo]

Bill that C4S is Awesome!! You shoulda kept it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

Get a 914, you'll fall in love!

[hot_shoe914]

Jake Raby has a super nice '74 2.0 with a Raby 2056 already in it with only 3000 iles on the motor reported to be putting out 140 HP. Rest of it looks all stock. Nice car with a good price.


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[Cevan]

Why is the '73 2.0 typically put before a fully optioned '74 2.0? Aren't they essentially the same? Actually, isn't the '74 D-Jet a little better as some of the parts were also used in the 75-'76 cars and are more readily available?

Having said that, I say buy the most rust-free, accident-free one you can find. Anything else that needs to be done to the car you can probably do yourself.

[scotty b]

If you like your Alfa you'll like the 914. Comparing the two I'd say the 914 corners better and swaps ends a bit worse. It's lower wider and doesn't feel like it leans as much. Your Alfa is peppier than a stock 914. The Alfa gearing seems perfect and you have the right gear for every corner. The 914 stock gearing isn't quite there.

I say go for it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

All that and you don't have to turn your right foot at a 90deg angle to use the pedals (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) Plus Porsche never used a leather belt to hold any suspension parts in place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)