I've been a long time 911 owner but have decided I want a 914/4 as a "hobby" car. I was going to buy an older 911SC; however, I rode in a friend's 914 a few weeks ago and decided that's the car for me!

So, I have several questions. I did a search with success in some areas and no luck in others. My questions are as follows:

• I have some mechanical experience....how hard are the cars to work on?
• Are 914's like most cars in that you should buy the best you can afford?
• Other than hell holes, rockers, and floor pans are there any other "gotcha!" places to look for rust?
• I know this is subjective; but, is any year just "better" than another?
• Is a car that still has its original fuel injection better than one that has been converted to carbs?

Since everyone likes pictures I have attached pictures of my previous 911's and my current one:

My 993 C4S....the car I should have kept!



2004 996 40th Anniversary...sold



2006 997 Carrera...current

'73 2.0L is the favored car. Lighter and first year of the 2L.

The suspension mounts in the rear and rust in the longetudnals are places to look carefully.

Pelican has a good buyers guide in thier 914 forum

My opinion is always buy to the level of project you are looking for. Visit the recommended Pelican page mentioned above.

Think in the terms of future too. Do you think you will ever want to convert a different engine, or keep it stock?

If you think the first option, buy one that is done or almost done. In the end you will save $, unless you have lots of $$ to spend and a very unique idea.

If you have $20k, you should buy Elliot Cannon's car. It's all done and very cheap. I think he is running a 3.2L.
Look in the classifieds here http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1451716

In my opinion. looking at your past and present cars. I think you will be disappointed in a 914, in my opinion. You have already tasted FAST and I don't think a 914 will satisfy you from what you're used to. Also consider non-galvanized body, probably no air conditioning and lack of HP. Many people I see new to 914's almost immediately ask "What can I do for more power" and I've seen so many people get out of 914's after owning them for a short time. If you're going to get a really nice example, it'll cost ... 8-12k? not pocket change for me. Then you'll have 2 cars to drive and one might get rarely used. I just wanted to express my OPINION but good luck on whatever you decide to do and ...

Rear trunk by the lights typically has rust due to poor drainage, but this is an easy fix.
Rear suspension "ear" has potential for stress cracks that can be dangerous.

Bla bla bla. You should tell us how much your looking to spend and what kind of car your looking for. (Totally stock, semi modded, fully modded street machine [like Elliots car]) and we can probably steer you to some nice examples. Its a much better deal if you get a car thats already done, or a project car with lots of spares/upgrade pieces (With a body thats already been gone through) if your looking for an actual project.

Most have been modified beyond their original engine/ect so its the body that is important with the modifications your looking for.

Fuel injection is better.

Better for what...

Everything

Thank you for the replies.

Let me start by saying I pretty much love all cars....I have owned over 60 cars in the last 26 years....including a couple of old beetles. I am a degreed engineer and love mechanical things...I don't even own a quartz watch!

Speed isn't a big thing for me. My other current cars include a 2006 Ford F-250 Turbodiesel, a 1989 Alfa Romeo Graduate and a 1966 Thunderbird. None one of them are classified as fast!

I'm into stock cars. The only mods I typically make are for safety (I upgraded my t-bird to a dual master cylinder) or for reliability to address known weaknesses. At this point I am open to either a really nice stock example or a really solid "tired" car that needs minor to moderate restoration.

I hope that helps give a little more clarity to the questions I was asking.

DIS

Sorry Jim but I have to disagree. I have chased Elliot through the backroads of Sonoma County. Him in the Zonker me in the Bumblebee Racer. Him 3.2 me 2.7. We were FLYIN' which is ok because we both have pilots licenses (Elliot used his a lot more than I used mine). He probably would have left me in his vapor trail if it wasn't for the broken shock he had! I own a 911 as well and these cars with a good 4 cylinder (think 2270 or even 2056) or a healthy 6 cylinder are scary fast...

Whats your budget? We can probably point you towards a good car in your budget as between all of us we are aware of most of the 914's for sale on the market.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=115659
This would be a great starting project if you want an actual start to finish project. Put 5k into a 2056 motor (with stock injection), 1k into a rebuilt trani (Attend one of DR Evils trani rebuild seminars. 1k into suspension and brake rebuilding, 1.5k into interior and seals, 2k into paint, 1k in wheels and tires and about 1.5 years of weekend work and you have yourself a car that you built the way you want it and that shows your love and dedication towards it. This would be a fully rebuilt car, aka a NEW 914.


However if you want to get a nice DONE 914 to just drive, a good place to start is below.
http://www.camp914.com/carsforsale.html
Craig @ Camp 914 typically has very nice examples for sale.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=116394
This is a FINE example. WORTH the money.

I will disagree with most posts here. If you loved the ride in the 914, you should go for it. I've had 2 911's & a wonderful 924 (yeah guys, rag on me - but it ate a lot ove hotshoe 911's in the day in autocross - but was modified). My 911's are gone, and I still miss them. But my 914, which I bought new will always stay with me.

Why? Simplicity. It's the 356 od the modern era. Ant fool can make it work.

Now, I would suggest that the '73 2.0 is the perfect 914 four cylinder car. Has the most output & is still easy to maintain. You'll have to spend some bucks for a ready-to-run resto, but it's worth it. Take a stock 2 liter, lower it an inch. swaybar it and you have performance that can bring smiles.

Regardless of the posts from other guys, you'll be happy with a 914. The 911 thing...so what! Been there, done that & guess what's still in my garage? 914, and it's stock.
Pat

If you like your Alfa you'll like the 914. Comparing the two I'd say the 914 corners better and swaps ends a bit worse. It's lower wider and doesn't feel like it leans as much. Your Alfa is peppier than a stock 914. The Alfa gearing seems perfect and you have the right gear for every corner. The 914 stock gearing isn't quite there.

I say go for it.

Here's my 2 cents .....

* I have some mechanical experience....how hard are the cars to work on?
Not hard, plus there are a few "experts" on 914s in your area if you want to take it to a shop. One of the reasons which I looked for a 2.0 H4 back in 75 when I got mine, was that I figured that I could always find somebody who worked on aircooled VWs in Podunk wherever with parts & know how to get me to a real Porsche+Audi dealer in a pinch on longer & XC trips, and the 2.0 was engineered by Porsche from the 1.7L, because VW thought the 1.8 was as far as they could get it!

* Are 914's like most cars in that you should buy the best you can afford?
Yes - unless you're looking for something to work on & tinker with, restore, etc.

* Other than hell holes, rockers, and floor pans are there any other "gotcha!" places to look for rust?
In addition to the suggestions above - remove the steering rack cover & look for rust up under there - esp. at the brackets for the steering cross member, F cowl to fender joints - remove seals & look into joints, trunk floors F & R, remove the seals at the trunks & check channel for rust, remove the outer door seals on the door & look in channel & door bottoms, around the windshield, rear of floor pans below rear window (esp. if the rear window rattles or is loose) F & R door jambs & all nooks-n-crannies therein, around the windshield moulding, at sail mouldings at roll bar (esp. with vinyl/chrome trim), around taillights & rear of R trunk below same, & on 73-76 MYs look behind the engine bay firewall heat/sound pad for rust on the firewall & engine shelf there.

* I know this is subjective; but, is any year just "better" than another?
IMHO the 73 2.0 is best, but then I highly prejudiced having owned mine since 75 - the 70-71 (-72 very few) 914-6 is the most rare & preferred by many (3000+ built), and then the 73-74 914/4 2.0L is the next best with nearly the same HP (110 hp stock -6 vs. 95 hp stock 2.0 -4 in USA spec or 100 hp with Euro heads), but better TQ lower in & across the range (you have to wind up the -6 pretty high to get the same TQ). Within that 73-74, there are the 1000+/- 74 LEs that are unique for paint & details, and the early 73 MY 2.0s came "fully loaded" with pretty much all available options included in the Appearance & Performance Group option packages (including the F&R sway bars Pat mentions & the 10# lightweight forged alloy Fuchs "2L" wheels) - & most of the USA 73 MY 2.0s came so equipped. The USA distributors marketed the early 73 MY 2.0's as the "914 S" - although Porsche in Germany didn't buy off on it & made them drop it in early 73. Some of the very early 73 2.0's had the black vinyl on the A-pillar/Windscreen Frame as well for the first 1100 or so VINs (1103 is confirmed), as well as those made in Aug-Sept having a mix of the 72 MY parts, such as chrome interior door handle cup surrounds (instead of black plastic) & chrome window winder base, different air cleaner box top (embossing simplified over time), etc.

* Is a car that still has its original fuel injection better than one that has been converted to carbs?
IMHO stock EFI is best for a 914 you're keeping as original &/or for Concours, but if you're looking for a mildly hopped up H4 (e.g.: a Raby 2056 or 2270, etc.), then you'll get more HP with dual carbs, but then you're back to synchronizing carbs that the EFI intended to get around in the first place. A 2056 with stock EFI gets about 115 hp, while carbed can be built to 125 ro 140 hp & more wile more displacement up to 250+ hp in some race motors.

Here are some websites with great info on 914s, in addition to the 914 Info section at the top here, and the Originality & History Forum's various topics:

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/
(the above also has a PPI check list in its many pages that Jeff has compiled)
http://www.bowlsby.net/914/CanAm/
p914.com

Info on early 73 MY -
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=61696&hl=
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=67816&st=0

"914S" Info -
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=107851&st=

There is an early 73 2.0 with the A-pillar vinyl sorta near you FS now in Columbus GA, that the 26 year owner needs to sell due to moving. It's not perfect & needs some work to get back to original, and needs a good PPI to be sure it's solid, but is priced reasonably from what I can tell (not related nor have I seen/driven it).
It's listed here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...20&t=117270

Others have also given you a variety of FS links, depending upon your druthers!

PS - in some states some MYs are exempt from smog &/or other certifications, such as CA is exempt for 75 & earlier - so that also may make a difference, in addition to the 75-76 2.0 dropping to 86 hp due to smog eqpt. & they have the big black "rubber" 5 mph impact bumpers (some prefer those).

Good Luck & post lotsa pix of what you get!

Buy the best 1973 2.0L you can find.

I did, and I skipped a lot of heartache, but not all of it.

It took a full 2 years to get it to this.

John

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Bill that C4S is Awesome!! You shoulda kept it!

Get a 914, you'll fall in love!

Jake Raby has a super nice '74 2.0 with a Raby 2056 already in it with only 3000 iles on the motor reported to be putting out 140 HP. Rest of it looks all stock. Nice car with a good price.

Why is the '73 2.0 typically put before a fully optioned '74 2.0? Aren't they essentially the same? Actually, isn't the '74 D-Jet a little better as some of the parts were also used in the 75-'76 cars and are more readily available?

Having said that, I say buy the most rust-free, accident-free one you can find. Anything else that needs to be done to the car you can probably do yourself.

All that and you don't have to turn your right foot at a 90deg angle to use the pedals Plus Porsche never used a leather belt to hold any suspension parts in place

Great info and I appreciate the links!

I have always had a soft spot for small displacement cars. My first car was a 1969 Datsun 2000 and I've owned big Healey's, Triumphs, Alfa's and even a Fiat X1/9.

On the the other forums I frequent (mostly Rennlist, Pelican, Alfabb, and vintage T-birds I know that people love pictures (I know I do) so here are my other toys. A 914 would make a great addition!

The Alfa when I bought it! 48K original miles (documented with two owners) and not a speck of rust. Bought it with a blown head gasket for $1,000 and slowly doing a cosmetic restoration:



And my 1966 Thunderbird. Bought it for nostalgia since my parents had a new one just like it and it's the first car I remember:

Ahh, now your just bragging Bill!

BTW - John's Orange 73 914-2.0 is the one early VIN just before the one in the ad which I posted (...1102 & ....1103 IIRC respectively) - but in much better & pretty much all original condition & more than 2x what the gal is asking. If you want a project, & if the GA 2.0 has "good bones" & solid mechanically (engine was apparently rebuilt in CA 5,000 mi ago along with some other work) - which I don't know - then it could be a good one to buy & either drive as a fun/DD or to work on over time. I actually suggested that the owner keep it & get it out to CA after having owned it for 26 years.

Also - Jake Raby's 74 2056 noted above was marked as sold soon after the post went up yesterday.

Cheers!

Chris - it's merely a numbers game, since most 73 2Ls were loaded with the Appearance & Performance Group options, while a minority of the 74s came so equipped, and the market doesn't differentiate much on whether a 73-74 2L has AG/PG or other option sets today - as well as there being almost 13000 73 2Ls vs about 10.6k in 74.

So you're generally getting more bang for your buck with a 73 2L.

However, it all comes down to each 914 & it's condition!

BTW - I agree with you in part on the 73 2L parts for certain items, but many of the EFI parts were common 73 2L to the 70-73 1.7s & even some other makes' Bosch EFIs of that period. Unfortunately, even the 74 & 75-76 2Ls will eventually suffer this fate until Bosch or someone steps in to mfgr. vintage parts!

Bill - here's an estimate on production by model/engine/year & a specs summary FYI (PCA did the estimate from factory records, since neither VW, Porsche nor the VW-Porsche JV weren't particularly good about exacting records then).

Click to view attachment

Hope this helps your quest for the Holy Grail Sir Knicket!

Not bragging...lol

Just letting everyone know that I am not a flipper and am a car guy!

Pelican Parts (see the link in my sig below) has a "How to Buy A 914" article that talks about things to look for.

If you liked your X1/9, you'll like the 914. According to a friend of mine with experience in both, the 914 is similar to the X1/9. But the 914 does have better brakes, more power, more weight, and a better shift linkage. (Mind you, the brakes and shift linkage are known as not being the 914s best assets...)

--DD

I had a blown head gasket on mine. Make sure you install the kit to avoid this in the future. They make brass inserts that you slip into the coolant holes in the head and block. Cheap and easy insurance.

The tits in the face gauges and handling sold me. Leather limit straps are hokey but functional.

If you've sworn off quartz watches you need a 914. Tell me what kind of Mech. watches you have and Ill take a stab at what 914 will suite you best. No doubt this will be the least valuable advice you get on this post but what the hell.

Neither am I ....... I still own my #3, 4 & 5 cars ever & I'm close to 59!

Just pushing your leg a bit.

Like cars, I like all mechanical watches from expensive to cheap. I went through a big collecting phase around 10 years and still have some of them. I've owned (or still own):
-Rolex
-Omega
-Panerai
-Omega
-Sinn
-Ulysse-Nardin
-Seiko
-Hamilton
-Tag Heuer
-Hamilton
- and even Timex!
Plus others I can't remember right now!

Based on this and in my expert opintion you are going to need a couple of 914s.

Quick update.....have a deposit on a car....I'm excited!!!!

Nice! Share some details!!!

Nice! Share some details!!!

Buying BarberDave's car!

Anyone know the car?

Yes, I've seen it at ECC's and Hershey several times. Glad to see it's going to a member here and sad to see BD selling. Nice black 73 if I recall. He entered it in the Hershey concours several times.

Only seen pictures so far; however, what I see looks great!

I have a Heuer Autavia that I recieved for my second BS in 1978, Still inperfect condition but it weighs a ton. Not a Tag buyout version either. So, what do I need, other than an original 72 914?
Pat

PS - sorry for the highjack, but it made me curious.

That Tag will do just fine!
Although I love my Rolexes (my daily beater is a Submariner) I REALLY like Omega's. When my oldest son graduated high school I was going to buy him a Submariner but he decided he wanted an Omega Seamaster (automatic...of course) ! I've owned a couple and they are nice. It's a good choice since most people don't know what it is and it draws little attention.

hope it works out. I've had a 73 914 1.7 for about four months now and I just keep loving it more and more.

Mine actually came from Greenville SC... Glad you where not looking last November.

Being a "car guy" my daily driver is a Rolex Daytona but I was lucky enough to find an old Omega Seamaster about a year ago at an antique store for $25. I wish I would have gotten that good of a deal on my 914! I would love to get my hands on matte dial acrylic crystal sub... already got a nato band waiting on it. I'm thinking as long I as I have my 914, a down payment on a Raby rebuild will win over another watch.

This one is coming from Ohio.....BarberDave's car