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> Inner Long Reinforcement Kits, Want a stiffer 914?
Engman
post Jun 22 2004, 09:38 AM
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You definately want the pressure off the longs - use the jackstands. (yes there is still stress in the longs on the jackstands- its just much reduced due to the distances of support)



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seanery
post Jun 22 2004, 10:00 AM
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quick question about carpet fit.
Does a stock carpet set fit after these are installed?
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Engman
post Jun 22 2004, 10:14 AM
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Yes - these vitually mold to the longs.


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goobu
post Jun 27 2004, 07:40 PM
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How much do they weigh?
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McMark
post Jun 28 2004, 12:17 AM
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When trekkor installed his he mentioned they were 18 pounds, but I don't know for sure how he came up with the figure.
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Trekkor
post Jun 28 2004, 08:21 AM
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I stepped on the bathroom scale, took note of my largeness, then reached for the kit and wallaw!

The difference is 18#.
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RAR
post Jun 28 2004, 07:23 PM
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Do these require the removal of any interior sheet metal (spot weld cutting) before installation? Thanks.
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Engman
post Jun 28 2004, 08:30 PM
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No removal of any metal inside is required. You do have to remove the seam sealer and sound deading material and clean up any residual glue on the longs where these attach in order to achieve good welds.


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Gint
post Jun 30 2004, 08:08 AM
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Mark,

I need to prder one of your kits and have it shipped to MarkD. I'll send PM and email.
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corpselaurel
post Jul 12 2004, 06:51 AM
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Mark I sent you an email and PM.
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Engman
post Jul 12 2004, 02:12 PM
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PM sent - I currently have some in stock.

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Trekkor
post Jul 19 2004, 12:56 AM
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see the complete install photo documentary:here!

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retro74
post Aug 12 2004, 06:24 PM
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Looks good. Working on my 71 and these might be a nice thing to add. A couple of points to note about your install:

1. I stripped the tar on my two 914's (one will get trashed due to rust) and by far the easiest and fastest tar scraping was with a heat gun to soften the tar AND the use of a 1" wood chisel. The charp edge of the chisel is nicer that a putty knife. Heat 10" area for about a minute or less.

2. The seam sealer strips out nicely with high heat. A torch works great. Again, the 1: chisel is a cool tool for this.

3. Welding - I have yet to start my welding skill again, but I've been reading and reading. Metal should be shiny when you weld. Your users should use a pencil to trace-out the holes and then use a wire bruch to clean the area before welding. Also, any gap is too much. Tight fits are the way to go. Use sheet metal screws to pull it all in if you need to. Back them out when you get to that area and then just fill the hole. Cool MIG Tip - Use a pair of wire cutters and cut off the wire end after you stop every time. The end is oxidized, so this gives you a clean start.

4. I noticed that you did not weld along the floor pan. Makes sense to me since these floors are so thin anyway. But you should use POR15 or RustBullet to preserve the metal. I have been using POR15's rust converter first and it simply works -- leaves behind a cold zinc coating and the rust is neutralized.

5. Jacking it up. I worked on one of my Longs and used a 4x4 under the side that I was working on running just under the edge of the long. Nice, straight and spreads the load.

Nice looking product and useful welding pictures.

Good Luck

Joe C.
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jgiroux67
post Aug 12 2004, 07:32 PM
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Do you make them only in 16 gauge? Would 18 be too week?
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jgiroux67
post Aug 12 2004, 07:37 PM
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Also, do you need to strip the paint on the longs before putting the kit on?
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Engman
post Aug 12 2004, 07:44 PM
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16G is the way to go. 18G could be used but the flex modulus is a lot worse - (ME term meaning more flex). 16G is also easier toweld in my opinon. You ideally should wire wheel and have 'clean' metal to weld to, but if you clean off any old glue you can weld these and the welder will burn thru the paint. Depends upon how gud a welder you are.

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Trekkor
post Aug 13 2004, 08:48 PM
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QUOTE(retro74 @ Aug 12 2004, 05:24 PM)
Looks good. by far the easiest and fastest tar scraping was with a heat gun to soften the tar AND the use of a 1" wood chisel.



Thanks,

I haven't tried a torch or heat. But, believe me, the air chisel is BOLD.
Use short bursts and a 15-25 degree angle and it just breaks away...tonight!

No stink, no smoke, no accidental fires (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Try this first, please.

KT
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Engman
post Sep 28 2004, 08:07 PM
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I just got another batch of these run for those that have asked about them.


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ewdysar
post Jan 4 2005, 06:14 PM
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Received my inner long kit, good looking product. The package got here quick, even right before xmas. Can't wait to schedule the interior removal and the install of this kit.

Great job Engman. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

Eric

PS. I'm trying to print the install thread by Trekkor to guide my friend with a welder. I think I'm going to cut and paste into a document to make a more usable format. I'll let people know how that works out
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MecGen
post Feb 13 2005, 10:51 AM
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Hi
I just sent a PM regarding that inner kit... maybe more
Thanx
Joe

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