Inner Long Reinforcement Kits, Want a stiffer 914? Options

[Greenbuggy]

QUOTE (Engman @ Jun 22 2004, 07:38 AM)

You definately want the pressure off the longs - use the jackstands. (yes there is still stress in the longs on the jackstands- its just much reduced due to the distances of support) M

Forgive a guy if these sound like dumb questions - I'll be posting pics/details up soon, but in short - I've got a guy who is paying me to restore his green '72 914 and he also has a parts car. As with all 914's it seems (but especially in the midwest) his car has rust and some sag, and of course that needs to be fixed.

Your products all look good, and I'll probably be making an order for your long reinforcement kit, pedal board and hell hole kit, god knows the car will need all of them. I'm determined to do this car right, and have previously resto'ed a '59 VW Type I chassied buggy that sat outside for 15 years, so I'm intimately familiar with what rust can do on a monocoque chassis and how to fix it.

That said - I have a few technical questions.

#1, I have jacks and jackstands and a smooth concrete floor to work on. Where would you suggest putting jackstands for the long repair, to keep the body straight while doing this repair? I'm guessing at the fronts and backs of the longs, but would like confirmation.

#2, the car needs floor pans repaired as well as the longs repaired. Obviously the longs will get repaired before the reinforcement plate goes on, but would it be easiest to replace the floors before or after the long reinforcement kit goes on?

#3, have any of you who have done this kit use some sort of brace where the targa top would go to keep the body straight up top while welding everything in place?

#4, lastly, I'm concerned about keeping rust away long-term for the owner of the car. I was thinking, after long repair, wire brush to bare metal, coat long in weld-thru primer, lay on reinforcement, weld in place, clean welds, POR-15 over the entire reinforced long assy, seam seal at edges, and final coat with some sort of epoxy based paint. Does this sound good to keep rust away long-term? Keep in mind that the entire underbody is also getting POR-15'ed, and that this is a midwestern car and will likely see rain and quite possibly even a little salt in the coming years.

[Greenbuggy]

One more I forgot - would you recommend doing this kit with the engine in or out of the car? The engine is coming out anyway for the hell hole repair and to get cleaned up.

[type11969]

This is what I have done, but I have a serious hell hole and lower pass long repair (the lower left corner of the left long is rotted through along with the std hell hole rot, I think the PO let the pass. floorboard fill with water, rot away, and then they replaced the rotted floor with a new one without fixing the long). I have a brace with a turnbuckle going from the upper pass. seat belt mount to the upper pass door mount, and another brace with a turnbuckle going from the lower driver door mount to (essentially) the upper pass seat belt mount. Without both my targa bar was not aligned with my windshield.

PS- Mark, I received my set a few weeks ago, great product! It will be a while before it gets installed though . . .

[Engman]

QUOTE

PS- Mark, I received my set a few weeks ago, great product! It will be a while before it gets installed though . . .

Thanks - Made enough paper and metal check pieces to make sur that they fit!

QUOTE

#1, I have jacks and jackstands and a smooth concrete floor to work on. Where would you suggest putting jackstands for the long repair, to keep the body straight while doing this repair? I'm guessing at the fronts and backs of the longs, but would like confirmation. #2, the car needs floor pans repaired as well as the longs repaired. Obviously the longs will get repaired before the reinforcement plate goes on, but would it be easiest to replace the floors before or after the long reinforcement kit goes on? #3, have any of you who have done this kit use some sort of brace where the targa top would go to keep the body straight up top while welding everything in place? #4, lastly, I'm concerned about keeping rust away long-term for the owner of the car. I was thinking, after long repair, wire brush to bare metal, coat long in weld-thru primer, lay on reinforcement, weld in place, clean welds, POR-15 over the entire reinforced long assy, seam seal at edges, and final coat with some sort of epoxy based paint. Does this sound good to keep rust away long-term? Keep in mind that the entire underbody is also getting POR-15'ed, and that this is a midwestern car and will likely see rain and quite possibly even a little salt in the coming years.

1. Front and back of the long - use a jack in the center as well to adjust the door gap, Check it after you tack the long on that side in a few places and do so throughout the welding process.

2. Either way will work. Depenfding on the state of the floor - if it is really bad do the long first so the pan will set right.

3. See Type 11969's post.

4. Yep. Good method.

QUOTE

One more I forgot - would you recommend doing this kit with the engine in or out of the car? The engine is coming out anyway for the hell hole repair and to get cleaned up.

It*can* be done either way but my preferance on yours would be with engine out.

HTH

Thanks

Mark

[iamchappy]

Mark are these still available.

Chap

[Engman]

Yes - I have a couple in stock.

M

[iamchappy]

Email sent

[iamchappy]

Pay Pal sent ,
thanks Mark.


Chap

[Trekkor]

Yep, good kit.


KT

[iamchappy]

Got mine today, are they coated with weld through primer?

Thanks, Mark


Chap

[iamchappy]

I plan on welding these on, but I was wondering about panel adhesives. They have become so good, the factory and body shops use it all the time.

[Engman]

Yes - weld thru -

No one has done the panel adhesive - yet. I do not recommend it unless you feel you can get both surfaces extemely clean and have done this before.

Thanks

M

[dlee6204]

Email Sent

[Brando]

Mark,
Are you still producing these, or only selling a specific amount?

~B

[Engman]

I just got a new batch in - so yes I have them.

M

[neo914-6]

Mark,

My sponsor Marty (Maltese Falcon) listed them on the detail sheet of my car's SEMA description. He picked few things from my psuedo "dealer" sticker, LOL.

Vehicle Modifications: This is a 21st century remake of a classic Porsche 9146-- the neo9146. Entirely rebuilt (re-made) by hand, featuring classic mid engine roadster engineering, with dynamic styling all done in steel and carbon fibre. Powered by a 250 bhp Audi V6 biturbo 5 valve DOHC engine coupled to a B&M short throw 5 speed gearbox . Big ventillated brakes front and rear, with MSDS spot-disc parking brakes, SMART adjustable sway bars, Engman reinforced chassis kit, full in-car- entertainment (ICE)system, climate control, power windows, power door locks and GT3 Recaro seats. The neo9146 rides on 225/40 ZR 18" front , and 295/35 ZR 18" rear , on 18" Sport Techno wheels. The car still features a front and rear trunk...just as it did 32 years ago !

[Engman]

How coool is that!


But now you have to get there....

Thanks for the plug!

Mark

[ferlutt]

Do you still have this kits for sale?? if so how much and my zip is 92173... how much for shipping?


Thanks!

[Engman]

PM sent...

I have a few in stock. I also have all of my 'other' stuff in stock as well.

Thanks

M

[ferlutt]

Do you still have this kits for sale?? if so how much and my zip is 92173... how much for shipping?


Thanks!

HEy i deleted by mistake the email u sent me, could u tell me one more time how much is it??

Im ready to buy them.

Thx