Changing out stuff at each wheel, Rotors, Bearings and Seals..........and calipers/pads |
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Changing out stuff at each wheel, Rotors, Bearings and Seals..........and calipers/pads |
avidfanjpl |
May 3 2011, 02:24 PM
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#1
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914 Hemophiliac Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Bear, Delaware Member No.: 11,566 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Help!
I know I am in over my head, but I need to do all 4 rotors (Zimmermann, which I have) plus all bearings and seals. My right front bearing is making noise. My tech bud says since the rotors are thin, do the right thing. I am, but I need help! The real deal is, HOW DO I DO ALL THIS WORK? Questions - I am leaving space between the lines for answers. ANY and ALL answers welcome. I never did this crap before. 1. Are the rear bearings removable without removing the trailing arm? 2. Is there a special rear bearing tool? 3. Is there a rear wheel bearing seal? 4. Do I have to disassemble the rear hubs? If so, is it a good time to install new CV joints? Should I strip and paint the chipped axles? Are there better axle shaft to buy and install? 5. Who makes the best CV joints? Who sells them? 6. Is the front set of bearings pretty straightforward? 7. I have the front rotors, bearings and seals. What else should I buy/replace when I am going this far. The shocks, turbo tie rods, drop arms, and ball joints are all new. 8. Are there any bearing, rotor, caliper, trailing arm threads on here? I am TERRIBLE at search results. THANKS ALWAYS! John Lewis |
rohar |
May 3 2011, 03:10 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 924 Joined: 25-October 08 From: spokane Member No.: 9,685 Region Association: None |
The big how to for the rears is over at the bird board: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...conversion2.htm
I do a couple of things differently because I have an air hammer. I use it to drive out the stubs from the bearing and to drive the race out of the trailer. Without one, make sure you have an array of hammers handy ranging from a couple ounce ball peen to a 20lb sledge. Use the smallest that'll get the job done. If you go really big (20lbs sledge) you'll most likely strip the threads on the stub axles and have to buy new ones. The fronts are MUCH easier and the instructions in a Chilton's will get you through. You will want to inspect your axles and cvs while you've got them out, but there are so many options for conversion/upgrades it's hard for me to know where to start. If you're staying with a stockish engine, I'd generally invest money elsewhere. Help! I know I am in over my head, but I need to do all 4 rotors (Zimmermann, which I have) plus all bearings and seals. My right front bearing is making noise. My tech bud says since the rotors are thin, do the right thing. I am, but I need help! The real deal is, HOW DO I DO ALL THIS WORK? Questions - I am leaving space between the lines for answers. ANY and ALL answers welcome. I never did this crap before. 1. Are the rear bearings removable without removing the trailing arm? 2. Is there a special rear bearing tool? 3. Is there a rear wheel bearing seal? 4. Do I have to disassemble the rear hubs? If so, is it a good time to install new CV joints? Should I strip and paint the chipped axles? Are there better axle shaft to buy and install? 5. Who makes the best CV joints? Who sells them? 6. Is the front set of bearings pretty straightforward? 7. I have the front rotors, bearings and seals. What else should I buy/replace when I am going this far. The shocks, turbo tie rods, drop arms, and ball joints are all new. 8. Are there any bearing, rotor, caliper, trailing arm threads on here? I am TERRIBLE at search results. THANKS ALWAYS! John Lewis |
avidfanjpl |
May 3 2011, 06:02 PM
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#3
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914 Hemophiliac Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Bear, Delaware Member No.: 11,566 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Thank you!
The engine is totally stock, so I will get 4 new CV's, clean up and paint the shafts and look at Pelican. There are no threads on front changes that I could find. Anyone have a favorite CV brand? I have one Autotechnik that I put on. What may be better? Thanks! J |
MLedesma |
May 3 2011, 06:52 PM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 52 Joined: 13-October 06 From: Elizabeth, CO Member No.: 7,036 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
If the rear bearings aren't bad (making a lot of noise and howling),why replace them? You don't have to replace the rear bearings to swap out the rotors. Replacing the front rotors you do need to put new bearings in. If you are uncomfortable with that you can have a shop press in the bearing races.
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Spoke |
May 3 2011, 07:13 PM
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#5
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,979 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
Buy a repair manual. There's lots of good info in it and you will use it over and over again.
Do the fronts first, they're the easiest to change. Why do you think you need new CVs for the rear? |
76-914 |
May 3 2011, 07:18 PM
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#6
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,503 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
1 - yes
2- no, but it sure as hell helps to have some tool, even if you made it. 3- no 4- no; not unless you actually need them; why?; I don't know 5- no comment 6- yes 7- new brake hoses 8- check the Classics thread Get your boots on if you change out those rear bearings. ps You might want to order 3 rear bearings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
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