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> Updated trunk rollers, How the hell do you get them on?
eric9144
post May 15 2011, 09:34 PM
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One of my trunk rollers exploded and I have the replacements in hand, thought the process would be pretty easy--push down the tortion rod and bingo, WRONG...those suckers are a b!tch!

What's the secret, I know someone's done these? How do I get the new rollers in place?
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Dave_Darling
post May 16 2011, 01:21 AM
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You can use a ~1/4" deep well socket and an extension to get leverage on the end of the torsion rod. Then you can slide the wheel into the right location.

They do pack a punch!

Don't use a box-end wrench as a lever. They can slip, and that can be very bad news for anything in the way of the torsion rod.

--DD
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ellisor3
post May 16 2011, 04:44 AM
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QUOTE(eric9144 @ May 15 2011, 11:34 PM) *

One of my trunk rollers exploded and I have the replacements in hand, thought the process would be pretty easy--push down the tortion rod and bingo, WRONG...those suckers are a b!tch!

What's the secret, I know someone's done these? How do I get the new rollers in place?


The easiest method I have seen and used it to take a piece of 2x4 roughly 8" long. Open the trunk fully. Stand the piece on end so that the vertical end is the 4". Wedge that between the tension arm and under the area where the rain tray would be. The wood will spread out the tension and not bend that area. Once it is wedged in place simply close the trunk lid and the tension arm will be held by the piece of wood. From there, simply slide the new roller on. I did this in about 2 minutes.
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TheCabinetmaker
post May 16 2011, 07:00 AM
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I agree with DD (hi Dave). 1/4" drive, 10mm deep socket and a 10" extension. Slip it over the end of the rod, push down, place new roller, release tension, done!
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steveherman
post May 16 2011, 07:23 AM
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QUOTE(vsg914 @ May 16 2011, 09:00 AM) *

I agree with DD (hi Dave). 1/4" drive, 10mm deep socket and a 10" extension. Slip it over the end of the rod, push down, place new roller, release tension, done!



I COULD NOT GET THIS WAY TO WORK FOR ME AND FEEL SAFE
So... here is what i did and what i used.
it took longer to cut the slot in the breaker bar than to replace the rollers.
i just slid the spring in the slot pushed the breaker bar forward and viola!!!

HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!!
I can not express enough how easy this was and how safe i felt doing it this way.



(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i806.photobucket.com-10799-1305552196.1.jpg)
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jaxdream
post May 16 2011, 07:47 AM
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Some folks use the ring end of an adjustable wrench ( notch cut into the ring like a C to slide out ) to do this procedure , I have used the deep 10mm socket / extention with success , there are a few different ways to do it . Different ways work for different folks , as long as the mission is accomplished .

Jack / Jaxdream
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eric9144
post May 16 2011, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for the input guys, I'll take another crack at it this week...
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underthetire
post May 16 2011, 08:30 AM
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QUOTE(vsg914 @ May 16 2011, 06:00 AM) *

I agree with DD (hi Dave). 1/4" drive, 10mm deep socket and a 10" extension. Slip it over the end of the rod, push down, place new roller, release tension, done!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Took 3 minutes.
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lsintampa
post Apr 15 2013, 02:17 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 16 2011, 03:21 AM) *

You can use a ~1/4" deep well socket and an extension to get leverage on the end of the torsion rod. Then you can slide the wheel into the right location.

They do pack a punch!

Don't use a box-end wrench as a lever. They can slip, and that can be very bad news for anything in the way of the torsion rod.

--DD



OK, I'm gonna have to bite on this one. I'm trying to replace one exploded roller. I understand fitting a deep socket on the end, but by push down, I assume you mean towards the front or forward. The issue is that the extension ends up hitting the deck lid above where the roller needs to go. I can see that the grill end piece can be removed, but there still is a welded brace that goes across and blocks your forward motion.

SO, I'm either not understanding something or there must be some other way.

I totally don't understand the 2X4 method. The ring end of an adjustable wrench makes sense, but seems to me it would slip off before you got it far enough forward to place the roller on.

Very confusing. Anyone have pictures or a link that shows how you're doing this?

Thanks,

Len
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saigon71
post Apr 15 2013, 02:29 PM
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QUOTE(lsintampa @ Apr 15 2013, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 16 2011, 03:21 AM) *

You can use a ~1/4" deep well socket and an extension to get leverage on the end of the torsion rod. Then you can slide the wheel into the right location.

They do pack a punch!

Don't use a box-end wrench as a lever. They can slip, and that can be very bad news for anything in the way of the torsion rod.

--DD



OK, I'm gonna have to bite on this one. I'm trying to replace one exploded roller. I understand fitting a deep socket on the end, but by push down, I assume you mean towards the front or forward. The issue is that the extension ends up hitting the deck lid above where the roller needs to go. I can see that the grill end piece can be removed, but there still is a welded brace that goes across and blocks your forward motion.

SO, I'm either not understanding something or there must be some other way.

I totally don't understand the 2X4 method. The ring end of an adjustable wrench makes sense, but seems to me it would slip off before you got it far enough forward to place the roller on.

Very confusing. Anyone have pictures or a link that shows how you're doing this?

Thanks,

Len


Len, I just used the 1/4" socket, 6" extension method. I wore gloves. Push down on the extension toward the floor to relieve the pressure on the roller (or lack thereof) and slide the new one on with a dab of grease.

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lsintampa
post Apr 15 2013, 03:00 PM
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QUOTE(saigon71 @ Apr 15 2013, 04:29 PM) *

QUOTE(lsintampa @ Apr 15 2013, 04:17 PM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 16 2011, 03:21 AM) *

You can use a ~1/4" deep well socket and an extension to get leverage on the end of the torsion rod. Then you can slide the wheel into the right location.

They do pack a punch!

Don't use a box-end wrench as a lever. They can slip, and that can be very bad news for anything in the way of the torsion rod.

--DD



OK, I'm gonna have to bite on this one. I'm trying to replace one exploded roller. I understand fitting a deep socket on the end, but by push down, I assume you mean towards the front or forward. The issue is that the extension ends up hitting the deck lid above where the roller needs to go. I can see that the grill end piece can be removed, but there still is a welded brace that goes across and blocks your forward motion.

SO, I'm either not understanding something or there must be some other way.

I totally don't understand the 2X4 method. The ring end of an adjustable wrench makes sense, but seems to me it would slip off before you got it far enough forward to place the roller on.

Very confusing. Anyone have pictures or a link that shows how you're doing this?

Thanks,

Len


Len, I just used the 1/4" socket, 6" extension method. I wore gloves. Push down on the extension toward the floor to relieve the pressure on the roller (or lack thereof) and slide the new one on with a dab of grease.

Attached Image



OK, I see how you got it into position. What I'm curious about is how you managed to get it past the welded brace that holds the side grill? The end of my bar is behind that brace.
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saigon71
post Apr 15 2013, 03:27 PM
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Sounds like the torsion bar slipped off completely and wedged itself under that piece. Never went through that. Can you post a pic?
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dirk9141973
post Apr 15 2013, 07:44 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) this works great 3/8 socket bar grind open hole create slot


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JmuRiz
post Apr 15 2013, 08:33 PM
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QUOTE(saigon71 @ Apr 15 2013, 01:27 PM) *

Sounds like the torsion bar slipped off completely and wedged itself under that piece. Never went through that. Can you post a pic?

That's what mine is like too...my car is out getting worked on. Bar end is flat on the back-side of the trunk indent.
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lsintampa
post Apr 16 2013, 12:18 PM
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QUOTE(saigon71 @ Apr 15 2013, 05:27 PM) *

Sounds like the torsion bar slipped off completely and wedged itself under that piece. Never went through that. Can you post a pic?



Sure enuf....

I think I need to lift the bend off the wheel well, then get some sort of tool around the bent part to push forward.

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JmuRiz
post Apr 16 2013, 12:27 PM
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Yep, that's just what mine looks like too...I'll let you know if I figure something out...I have yet to find something that works though.
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lsintampa
post Apr 19 2013, 08:25 AM
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QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Apr 16 2013, 02:27 PM) *

Yep, that's just what mine looks like too...I'll let you know if I figure something out...I have yet to find something that works though.


I think it is a two step process...

1) use long socket and extension to lift the bar off of the wheel cover

2) slip second tool onto the bar that "was" resting on the wheel cover to push the thing forward

I think step two is using something that can slip over the bar from the side so you can slip it off once you have the roller on

CAREFUL though, if it slips off early, I imagine it can be an issue and cause some damage - either to you or the car - looks like fun.
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rhodyguy
post Apr 19 2013, 02:46 PM
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don't forget to open the open the lid and take the pressure off the small torsion springs first. you don't need to bury the socket on the springs, just enough to ensure purchase. with the trunk still open grab the socket with a set of vice grips and you should be able to tap/drive the socket off. don't forget to lube the pin the wheel goes on and the pivot for the trunk arm.

k
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