Hello world..., Intro/question Options

[Dark Hobo]

Hello, my name is Ian. I am a 23 year old marine and am currently on a forced extended vacation to the beautiful ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ) Yuma Arizona. I Just bought my first 914 back in march in my home state after years of loving them and a year of searching. I drove it down from Oregon, where I am from and where I bought it, to Yuma Arizona where I am stationed. I got a hold of a '74 2.0L originally white but repainted saturn yellow I think. She is pretty faded and has been a one family car since they bought her. The guy's family had saved every receipt on maintenance they ever had done on the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . Outside of some quirks and general wear and tear she seems to be in amazing condition. Just glad to say I finally own a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) .

Anyways I have been talking with my dad a lot about various things since he has a boatload of knowledge about VWs and pretty much any other classic car in existence. But he is less confident about some things and suggested I pose some of my questions here, this and some parts I want to buy have brought me out of lurking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

First I guess was when I bought it the brakes didn't squeal at all. But within the past few weeks they started squealing. They go up and down on how bad it is. I bought some brake pads and went to replace them but they still have a lot of pad left. This kinda threw me for a loop since if it was improper installation of the brake pads the noise would have manifested much earlier it seems. The rotors look pretty bad and my dad says about an 1/8in ridge is the threshold it seems like it is getting there or is there.

Second gonna check in the daytime later today but the windows leak near the top. And I think I just discovered why on the classic thread forum. I may have an early top and from what I read on there '74 has late windows and won't seal on early tops. Anyone know of an easy way to tell early from late windows?

Third, The car was having some terrible bucking problems at around a 1/4 tank of gas left. I figured it was some crap in the tank and ran some cleaner through it a few times alternating with injector cleaner. after a couple weeks I ran it down to empty almost to see if it fixed it and it seemed to. You guys think I should pull the tank out anyways to check it?

Fourth, recommendations for oil for the Yuma summer. It gets up to 130 routinely here and I was researching oil to put in it. Some said 10w50 for high temps, some said 10w40 is fine, a few even said 30 is fine. I did some research and far from being and expert settled on 40 for now until I do an oil change. But I am looking at what to put in it for my upcoming oil change in the next few weeks probably. I was looking at synthetic but it has an oil leak, it doesn't seem TOO bad though. I read that synthetics will either make and existing leak worse due to the smaller molecules or find more possible leaks if you had none. How much does the problem amplify, is it something to be worried about or could I just bite the bullet with my wallet and say screw it for the good of the car in the long run.

Sorry for the length of the post and I don't expect anyone to read it all or answer it all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif). Just kind of tired and need to go to sleep now. This website was a great help to me when I was looking to buy a 914 and has already helped me learn a lot of things about my car in the short time I have owned it. Will definitely be sticking around here as much as possible. Welp 'nuff rambling I guess, sleep time before my next post. Night guys and tanks to anyone that answers anything, says welcome, hello, or even just reads the first sentence.

[ArtechnikA]

first - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I must tell you it is a PLEASURE to read a post from a young person who knows the basics of spelling and punctuation. EXCELLENT first impression!

Can't help you on the window seal (i've just had early cars...) but I do know it's a BIG undertaking to swap windows so if you have a late car, you have late windows.

There was always 'some' leakage even when the cars were new. 40 year old rubber isn't helping you, and the Yuma heat and (lack of) humidity make it worse. There are some repro rubber seals available, check the vendor classifieds.

There is a fuel filter, either up front by the steering rack or in the back, near the pump. Make sure you get the right one for your car and DO NOT think for a moment about using a Bug inline filter - you need injection-pressure-rated stuff. But it actually sounds like you had some water, and you may have got it out. Still, for a car of unknown provenance, replacing all the filters is just standard procedure.

20-50 Brad Penn. 'nuff said. You'll probably have to have it shipped in.

New rotors and pads would be an excellent idea, but be aware the 914/4 rotors also carry the bearings (there is no separate hub) so you'll need a few more parts. Get a Haynes manual and study up. Lots of guys put on 'racing' pads thinking they're the hot setup, but they have no place on a street car. Proper pads properly bedded will not squeal.

Again - WELCOME !

[hot_shoe914]

first - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I must tell you it is a PLEASURE to read a post from a young person who knows the basics of spelling and punctuation. EXCELLENT first impression!

Can't help you on the window seal (i've just had early cars...) but I do know it's a BIG undertaking to swap windows so if you have a late car, you have late windows.

There was always 'some' leakage even when the cars were new. 40 year old rubber isn't helping you, and the Yuma heat and (lack of) humidity make it worse. There are some repro rubber seals available, check the vendor classifieds.

There is a fuel filter, either up front by the steering rack or in the back, near the pump. Make sure you get the right one for your car and DO NOT think for a moment about using a Bug inline filter - you need injection-pressure-rated stuff. But it actually sounds like you had some water, and you may have got it out. Still, for a car of unknown provenance, replacing all the filters is just standard procedure.

20-50 Brad Penn. 'nuff said. You'll probably have to have it shipped in.

New rotors and pads would be an excellent idea, but be aware the 914/4 rotors also carry the bearings (there is no separate hub) so you'll need a few more parts. Get a Haynes manual and study up. Lots of guys put on 'racing' pads thinking they're the hot setup, but they have no place on a street car. Proper pads properly bedded will not squeal.

Again - WELCOME !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Shoe

[arkitect]

Ian,
I am glad you found a good 914 in good running condition and all the receipts to boot. Its nice to have them for a good idea of how the car was treated in the past.

Post some picts of your car.

Dave
Semper Fidelis

[carr914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Semper Fi

It sounds like good advice so far

T.C.

[rick 918-S]

Here's a Brad Penn locator. http://locator.bradpennracing.com/

Your calipers could be starting to stick and may require a rebiuld. Check with Eric Shea.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=112014

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/assimilate.gif)

[Cairo94507]

By all means, Welcome, great introduction and it sounds like a terrific car too. You have a great start on a car worth some money with all of the records and now being the second owner. Take the time to organize all that stuff and keep it.

You may wish to consider having the gas tank boiled out, sealed and replacing the filter sock. At the same time, check to see if the car still has the original (plastic) fuel lines in the tunnel and if so upgrade to SS lines and new filters for peace of mind.

You probably already know about PBM Performance in Sandy, UT and Eric Shea. That is all you really need to know about brakes right there. I consider brakes the only really essential safety equipment on our cars and take them very seriously. At my skill level, (not much) I wasn't going to screw around with my brakes. I wanted to know they were correct and as an added benefit, beautiful.

By the way, any chance you have begun to think about returning it to the original color?

Be very safe and enjoy your car.

[flipb]

I can't believe I'm the first person to say this, but (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

Sounds like you got a great car.

A '74 2.0 that was originally White could've been a Creamsicle... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Post the VIN or check against the "known LE VIN range" on Bowlsby's site.

Not that there's anything wrong with a '74 2.0 in Saturn Yellow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mr.242]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

ONLY THING YOU NEED TO START:

1)Jackstands (style that have pins and not the ratchet style)

Then go to town and enjoy the 914 (for 5 years as you work on it).

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Bad news: There is no cure for what you have just been infected with and there is only a support group to 'help' get you through this point in your life. However, being only 23 and infected so early in life will make it easier to tolerate. Come to 914world often for treatment. Hi. I'm Mark and I too am infected (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Is there a MRS. Dark Hobo in your life? If so, I'm sure some others can FWD you to their significant others to seek retail therapy. IF NOT, don't worry......There's this guy named Dr. Evil, he's smelly and repulsive to say the least. Also, he hangs out with Tranny's......he still was able to attrack a pretty cool gal. She's normal. So there is hope for us all! Chicks are attracked to train wrecks; aka Porsche 914! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

WELCOME from the PNW and post some pictures!

[KELTY360]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

The beauty of the 914 is that once you get to know one, and have it sorted out, it won't disappoint. The qualities that attracted you in the first place will put a smile on your face every time you drive it; whether on a trip to the grocery store or a dash through some winding canyon. Enjoy.....and, thanks for your service.

[nsr-jamie]

Welcome aboard. My brakes squeel too recently....post some pictures of your car as we all love pictures here on this site. Cheers!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

You may be able to address the squeaking by sanding the brake pads. No, I'm not joking. Just a little on the face of the pad, and then diagonally to chamfer the edges of the pad. It doesn't always work, but it's very cheap and relatively easy.

It also gives you a chance to take a closer look at the pads and calipers and such.

--DD

[zymurgist]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/flag.gif)

[Cap'n Krusty]

German cars don't use squeal producing wear indicators on their brake systems, so brake squeal isn't indicative of pad wear. Too much light breaking, ineven rotor wear (like those big ridges at the edges) and pad hardening or contamination can cause squeal. I'd suggest living with it until the pads are nearly gone, then doing pads, rotors, and rubber brake hoses. High quality stock components, properly installed, will give way more brakes than you'll ever need.Early windows have little rollers in the channel, late windows have felt tracks. Brad Penn 20w50, ONLY. When you change the fuel filter, give some thought to replacing the adapter hose from the fuel inlet tube to the filter. If the old one looks old, replace it. There's been (for years) a quality issue with the plastic filters. We use a filter from a BMW 2002 Tii. Longer, round, and the right size connections. If you're changing any other fuel hoses, I recommend the OE replacement 7 or 7.5mm German FI rated fuel hose, along with proper FI hose clamps. Available from GPR and other sources, as close as your mailbox or the big brown truck.

Welcome aboard! Nice to have you with us!

The Cap'n

[Dark Hobo]

Well, can't get pics to work on my phone so I geuss I am going to have to wait until I get home (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . But ithe VIN is 4742916690. Unfortunately no, there is no wife, although that probably helps the car out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Yeah it doesn't have SS fuel lines, I was already looking at the kits, and I am sure the brake lines are original. Also from perusing the receipts, they go back to 1984 by the way, the rotors have never been replaced. I did find out it passed california emissions. Which, however irrelevant, definitely suprised me. As far as the color goes I probably won'tt reurn it to the original if it is creamsicle. I am looking at painting it one of the darker shades of yellow that are less buttery/pastel. I just love those yellows on 914s (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

Another thing I forgot. Every once in awhile when I come to a stop and try and shift into first it will stop just short of going in and feel kind of springy. If I push it a bit and then try and go it will pop out of gear. When I put it back in with the clutch still pressed in and revs above 1000 it will grind but go in. If I wait it might grind a tiny bit but usually doesn't. After it pops out of gear though and I let the revs settle it will go in no problem. I can sometimes get it to go in by jiggling it back and forth and pressing back gently or shifting into other random gears while still stopped and then trying for first. Hasn't become a major issue just annoying when I can't get it in and the light turns green, that's what she said, and I am stuck at the light for a few seconds looking like a jackass.

Oh yeah, I despise how the younger ilk of my generation and even the ones closer to my age treat the english language like a dime store whore. I always try to keep my spelling and puncuation up to at least a personal minimum (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif). Now back to perusing the classifieds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[ArtechnikA]

...Every once in awhile when I come to a stop and try and shift into first it will stop just short of going in and feel kind of springy.

Check the owners manual and/or Haynes for clutch adjustment. It's a little non-obvious, involving measuring the distance you _pull back_ on the pedal with your hand. Make sure the little pulley by the heat exchanger is rotating smoothly - the heat affects the nylon and the lubricants.

Make sure you have the proper amount of a good trans/diff gear oil. I like Swepco but any of the good 85W-90's (or 85w-140) will be fine. These transmissions predate anything synthetic.

That said - work on developing this habit - instead of trying for 1st directly out of neutral, pop it up into 2nd first, then down into 1st. This helps stop the shafts and may make the 1st gear synchro's job a little easier.

You're probably due for a full set of shift linkage bushings. With everything new, the shifting is 'vague.' When they are worn, it borders on mysterious. It sounds like the shift linkage is on the cusp of needing to be adjusted, but probably it's bushings so do that first. I am not qualified to describe adjustment procedure for a side-shift transmission - tailshift I can do, but that doesn't help you...

[Drums66]

.....Welcome to the World (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[poorsche914]

snip... the VIN is 4742916690. ....snip

This VIN is at the tail end of the LE run.
Need to check for other tell-tale signs such as no targa vinyl, black targa trim, and brackets for front LE spoiler.
If it appears to be an LE, then a COA will verify that for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/creamsicle914.jpg)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Madswede]

Could be that infamous Yuma dust getting in between those hot rotors and the pads, causing the contamination that was mentioned before. (Of course, Oregon can be dusty on the Eastern half, so perhaps that's not it ... a wild guess based on relocation effects)

As for the shifting, I strongly suggest reading what I'd just read. Dr. Evil's "31 pages of notes". Find any post by him, a link to the notes is in his signature - search username Dr Evil or try this link: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...vil&st=1060

I learned a lot about what causes (and what it means to fix) things like gears grinding (really the dog teeth on the gear itself not completely engaging with the slider that selects the gears) and popping in and outta gear. Could be a loose clutch cable, but I'll let you read and decide.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Cheers!

[Gint]

first - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I must tell you it is a PLEASURE to read a post from a young person who knows the basics of spelling and punctuation. EXCELLENT first impression!

Can't help you on the window seal (i've just had early cars...) but I do know it's a BIG undertaking to swap windows so if you have a late car, you have late windows.

There was always 'some' leakage even when the cars were new. 40 year old rubber isn't helping you, and the Yuma heat and (lack of) humidity make it worse. There are some repro rubber seals available, check the vendor classifieds.

There is a fuel filter, either up front by the steering rack or in the back, near the pump. Make sure you get the right one for your car and DO NOT think for a moment about using a Bug inline filter - you need injection-pressure-rated stuff. But it actually sounds like you had some water, and you may have got it out. Still, for a car of unknown provenance, replacing all the filters is just standard procedure.

20-50 Brad Penn. 'nuff said. You'll probably have to have it shipped in.

New rotors and pads would be an excellent idea, but be aware the 914/4 rotors also carry the bearings (there is no separate hub) so you'll need a few more parts. Get a Haynes manual and study up. Lots of guys put on 'racing' pads thinking they're the hot setup, but they have no place on a street car. Proper pads properly bedded will not squeal.

Again - WELCOME !

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Shoe

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I could write a book but I don't have time. And you're getting pretty good answers already. Every 914 I've ever owned passed emission in CO. Even carb's ones. No reason why they shouldn't.

I've never followed the factory clutch adjustment or the method described in Haynes or any other manual. I just wing it and make it feel right. If you've ever adjusted a mechanical clutch you won't have any trouble. Replacing all of the shift bushings isn't terribly expensive and will make a huge improvement in shifting.

Spend the money and go through the brakes. That will pay off huge also. Porterfield 4s pads are killer.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif) Had to do it.