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> front sway bar install, post pics to help me do it
phantom914
post Jun 11 2004, 09:21 AM
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QUOTE(Demick @ Jun 11 2004, 06:33 AM)
31mm is EXTREMELY large. I forget my physics, but that's probably about 20X the stiffness of stock.

The ratio of the stiffness is the ratio of the diameter raised to the fourth(!) power.

so (31/15)^4 = 18.

18 Times as stiff. Wow! Would that even be noticeable? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Andrew
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JWest
post Jun 11 2004, 09:35 AM
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I believe the SRP bar is hollow, so it is not as stiff as you guys are thinking.
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 11 2004, 10:38 AM
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That's good, but even if it only has walls 3mm thick...

( 31^4 - 25^4 ) / 15^4 == 10.xx So it would still be ten times as stiff as stock, even with tubing walls that were only 3mm in diameter.

--DD
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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 10:47 AM
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Ouch! Math (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I'm just a caveman...

What I do know is that it is stiffer than: nothing, stock bar, wood, plastic, rolled cardboard, rope, etc.

Watch the car dancin' at Marina on Sunday.

I hope the fuel tank fits back in without too much:smash:

True, the Smarty bar is hollow BTW.
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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 10:56 AM
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I want to change to front fuel hoses while I can. How long should the hoses be to allow moving the tank around withou kinking the lines?

Here's the bar in it's new home.


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phantom914
post Jun 11 2004, 11:19 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jun 11 2004, 08:38 AM)

( 31^4 - 25^4 ) / 15^4 == 10.xx So it would still be ten times as stiff as stock, even with tubing walls that were only 3mm in diameter.

--DD

So it would be equivalent to about a 27mm solid bar if the walls are 3mm.

Of course, the car doesn't even have a bar now. How is the handling now? I imagine it will understeer alot more. Hopefully it oversteers now and you'll end up closer to neutral.


That setup looks super cool by the way. I'd like to know how it works once you get the setup finalized.


Andrew
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airsix
post Jun 11 2004, 11:55 AM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Jun 11 2004, 08:56 AM)
I want to change to front fuel hoses while I can. How long should the hoses be to allow moving the tank around withou kinking the lines?

If the hoses are long enough that you are not cursing and throwing things then they are too long and will kink. If they are so short that you have to move the tank three times, cut up your hands on the tin, hit your forehead on the torsion-bar adjuster, break a flashlight, and work yourself into a frenzied tantrum they are just the right length.

-Ben M.

ps - I put a brass 90 degree elbow in the middle of mine to stop them from kinking. Worked great and allows slightly longer hoses that are easier to work with. I'm a slow learner but I eventually catch on.
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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 06:06 PM
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I'm going out there to finish the install right now.

I've got 18" fuel lines ready to go.

I'll be on " My Vineyard Lap " in no time. ( 2 hours ).

Report to follow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 11 2004, 06:22 PM
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Stock torsion bars. This bar will work fine. I never intended to keep him on the 150's. Most people running 27mm bars have 21 or 22 torsions and seem to do just fine. This 31 combined with stock bars will work perfect.


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Mueller
post Jun 11 2004, 07:09 PM
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2 schools of thought come to mind for a streetable setup:

soft springs/torsion bars and stiff swaybars
or
stiff springs/torsion bars and soft swaybars


the 1st one seems easier to make changes to as long as the swaybars are adjustable and is what it looks like Trekkor is doing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Demick
post Jun 11 2004, 08:25 PM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Jun 11 2004, 08:47 AM)
Watch the car dancin' at Marina on Sunday.

My prediction is that the car will do a lot more plowing than dancing on Sunday. You'll need to add a lot of roll stiffness in the rear to balance it out.

Demick
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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 09:25 PM
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I'm at a loss for words (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'm in fantasy land. Is that a little tear drop?
Nope a little drool drop. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol2.gif)

This set-up is FANTASTIC. PERFECT.

I promise you all, this is not the same car I bought just a few short months ago.

I would of posted sooner, but I kept getting lost out there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)

Heres a few more shots for you DIY'ers


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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 09:27 PM
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set-up


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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 09:29 PM
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fuel lines


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Trekkor
post Jun 11 2004, 09:30 PM
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whooo-wat?


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Aaron Cox
post Jun 11 2004, 09:30 PM
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hope you put hose clamps on too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Brad Roberts
post Jun 12 2004, 09:58 AM
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I love the math.. but it is for engineers. The determining factor that NO engineer can give me details on is the TIRES. I come from the soft spring big bar school. I want adjustability in the bar. It is very difficult to swap out torsion bars at the track..very easy to adjust a bar. In the case of a full blown coil over F+R car.. I would run a smaller bar and adjust with spring rates. Factory Porsche GT3RSR's and GT3cup cars come with little tiny sway bars... we adjust with spring rates and fine tune with sway bars/shocks. Trekkor now has a ton of adjustability with Koni's and big bar.

This setup isnt for everyone and I dont recommend trying it. :finger2:


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seanery
post Jun 12 2004, 10:13 AM
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why the Smart bar vs. Tarret or Racer's Groups?

Tarret is cheapest the TRG then Smart... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Trekkor
post Jun 13 2004, 11:52 PM
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Action shot.

Massive improvments. Yes, stiffer rear springs and rear bar are in order. Compared to before, this bar is AWESOME!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)


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Trekkor
post Jun 13 2004, 11:59 PM
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Here's the before shot from 4-25-04.
I will install 200# rear springs to help balance the car.

Demick, was that you drivin' on 280 sat early eve?
I was towing to Marina heading south. ( I waved ) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)


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