Paul's phoenix red restoration Thread, GT clone Options

[914itis]

Oh and the bugs, you probably wont get all the bug out of the paint but you can get most of it. Thats just a downside of a DIY paint job. I have probably 3 bugs/legs/dots in my paint that are obvious to me, but to everyone else it just looks like a piece of dirt thats on the paint.

Thanks i will do the spot respay s peryour instructions. How did you do with your paint? I didn't see an update.

[914itis]

The paint is completely dry, I did a test spray on one of the oversprayed areas and the results was not a success. I sanded the overspay area with 400 grit, after the sand, there was a lot of pin holes in that area. I sprayed the paint and the pin holes are still showing,

I figured that would be the case for all of them, i decided to sand down these areas to 120 grit, all the way down to the primer, In the morning I will do a wet on wet primer, than paint on these areas, I think that this is the best eoute to go.

[Andyrew]

Do you still have the pinholes? Did you sand the pannel to 400 after sanding to 120 (I wouldnt have gone down to 120... Thats pretty rough)?

If you have the primer sealer underneath I dont think I would go with a primer base, Especially if you are only doing a spot repaint. Spot repaints are pretty difficult, however doable. Are you going to tape up the area's for a spot repaint? What area's are you doing? I wouldnt spot repaint an area smaller than 2 ft x 2ft. At that point you are looking at pretty much 1/2 of a fender, the door, ext... You have to put the tape on a bodyline (914 doesnt have these...) or roll the tape so you have a soft edge, then you have to remove the tape after an hour or so (when the paint is still tacky, but not wet.

My paint went well, Wet sand and polished turned out good. Just finished.

[914itis]

I had a litle accident and spilled my hardner. and I have some overspray to do.

It was purchase online,I am wondering, do I go to my local paint shop and ask for the same type and temp, or do I have to order from ther same manufacturer. What I mean is that, is there a difference by manufacture or is it the type that makes the difference.

[Andyrew]

Your in a pinch. Typically you wouldnt want you woudnt want to mix hardners, go to your store and ask them if they have something similar that might be compatable. You dont want anything low VOC as it will be harder to spray right( the issues im having).


Do a test pannel and let it harden before you spray it on the car.

[914itis]

Your in a pinch. Typically you wouldnt want you woudnt want to mix hardners, go to your store and ask them if they have something similar that might be compatable. You dont want anything low VOC as it will be harder to spray right( the issues im having).


Do a test pannel and let it harden before you spray it on the car.

What Am I looking for on the test, and How long should I wait for results?

[Andyrew]

Chemical reaction, solvent pop, and particularly fisheyes.

Your issues will show up fairly quickly, but I'd wait a day.

[914itis]

I did the test panel with the hardner that I picked up from the local paint supply store and the results was fine. I proceeded on respraying the whole car with two coats. the results are good so far after 5 hours. there are no drips. ( I am getting good at this) .

My next step was going to be wet sand 2000grit, then wash the whole car, folowed by compond, then wax.

MY next questions are:

Is wet sand necessary?

how long do I leave the compound before buffing it out?
Do i let it dry first, or buff it right out?

[Andyrew]

The compound is like sanding. You need to buff with it to get the scratches out, then wipe it off as you go along.

[914itis]

The compound is like sanding. You need to buff with it to get the scratches out, then wipe it off as you go along.

I think I need your help again with that part. You mean I don't need wet sanding? Just the compound . Spread the compound and buff it. Then I can move on to wax ?

[Andyrew]

Wetsanding to 2k grit helps remove orange peal and dust and scratches (not going to have scratches in fresh paint..).

So if you have orange peal and dust and scratches that you want to remove, then wetsand. If not, then you really dont have to even buff it if you dont want.

If your fine with the way it looks then leave it!

[914itis]

Without wet sand orcompound I noticed the paint is grainy . But with wet sand it is smooth . Is that a preference? What is orange peal?

[914itis]

THank you

[AndyB]

Hey Paul start sanding (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Andyrew]

Orange peal is like the surface of an orange, it is slightly bumpy over the entire surface. Most paint jobs have some orange peal, Some painters are skilled enough to prevent this, but not many can do it with single stage. Clearcoat is thinner so it flattens out a little better.


A wetsand will get rid of the bumps (sand through them) and then you polish the finish back.

[914itis]

As you mentioned earlier, wet sand is like compound, so I only need one or the other, Am I correct? if so, wich one is a better method to use?

[Andyrew]

No.

This is what you NEED to do. Min.


Wetsand to 1500 grit. (Remove orange peal, and create 1500 grit scratches in paint)

Buff with rubbing compound (Yellow bottle of 3M "Rubbing Compound", Sold in most paint stores). Read the bottle it says "Removes 1200 grit scratches", Well when you wetsand VS drysand you make deeper scratches so this works perfectly. Rubbing compound brings back the shine of the paint.

Finish it off with your choice of Polish/Wax to protect the paint.

[914itis]

Update!

I spent the last couples days working under the car, I sprayed ruberized under the whole car.

I am currently working on my 5 lugs conversion and playing with Mickey914 rubbers. It's coming along pretty nice. I will post some pics soon.. just wanted to give an update and keep this thread alive.

[Andyrew]

Awesome! Its going to look great!

[914itis]

Awesome! Its going to look great!

Thanks .