Paul's phoenix red restoration Thread, GT clone Options

[SirAndy]

What are you guys using as rims without doing a 5 lug conversion?

Centerline used to have 4-lug rims that were wider than stock and the perfect offset for flared cars!

Here's my car when i bought it with 7x15 running 225 tires.

[Eric_Shea]

Look at you go! Dig in! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[914itis]

This weekend I was able to get the drivers side ready for a send coat of primer, hopefuly that will be the last. I also started on the front and rear hood. Sometines this week I will prime the ehole car inside and out.

[Eric_Shea]

Slow down... what... are ya going for the Dean Mikel Award? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[914itis]

I also noticed the door gap on the pasenger side pillar is different than the driver's, However they are both nicely lined up by the fender area. the doors came from my donnor/ parts car and it seems like they came off 2 different cars, the inside paint didnt match. is it possible that they were from another year and they are slightly different? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[914itis]

Slow down... what... are ya going for the Dean Mikel Award? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

just gotta get moving while I have the time..I may not have too much play time in the coming weeks. just taking advantage of my free time. + I want that award

[jimkelly]

that gap - especially on the pass side - looks suspect.

does it get tigher with you standing in car and trying to open door with you standing inside car?

i can't imagine doors can have a 1/2 inch range of difference?

previous owner may have already fixed rust but may have tweaked the car while welding in new metal?

any way - nice progress.

jim

[914itis]

that gap - especially on the pass side - looks suspect.

does it get tigher with you standing in car and trying to open door with you standing inside car? Will post pics of the inside later.

i can't imagine doors can have a 1/2 inch range of difference?

previous owner may have already fixed rust but may have tweaked the car while welding in new metal?

any way - nice progress.

jim

The gap is actually on the drivers side. And no it does not get smaller as I stand I. The car. The PO did a great job fixing the rust. He doses all floors trays and installed the egmankit the work looks pretty nice and the whole car is strong. But I guest he screwed up on this one. The doors closes fine. I guest I will have go close Mh eyes and live with it.

[914itis]

Question for the Pros. Do I have to use a primer sealer, if not, what are the pros and cons of using one?

[Andyrew]

Are you going to be laying any primer after this before paint? Are you going to be sanding this down to see where your at body wise, then fixing any imperfections and laying another coat of primer after?


If your using bondo at this stage, you should go with a high fill primer, you dont have to use a sealer, however there are many that do both functions (read the label, if they dont say "sealer" they are not a sealing primer). Then later when the car is block sanded and all imperfections fixed, you can spray a primer sealer.
A high fill primer(typically says "high fill 2k") when sprayed at full strength is almost like spraying on a thin layer of bondo. And typically a non sealing primer will be cheaper than a sealing primer.


Sidenote: Your primer sealer, or the primer prior to spraying paint, should be as close (on a greyscale) to the paint color as you can be (aka if you are spraying a bright yellow, it should be a white primer, if you are spraying a black, it should be a black primer)

[914itis]

Are you going to be laying any primer after this before paint? Are you going to be sanding this down to see where your at body wise, then fixing any imperfections and laying another coat of primer after?


If your using bondo at this stage, you should go with a high fill primer, you dont have to use a sealer, however there are many that do both functions (read the label, if they dont say "sealer" they are not a sealing primer). Then later when the car is block sanded and all imperfections fixed, you can spray a primer sealer.
A high fill primer(typically says "high fill 2k") when sprayed at full strength is almost like spraying on a thin layer of bondo. And typically a non sealing primer will be cheaper than a sealing primer.


Sidenote: Your primer sealer, or the primer prior to spraying paint, should be as close (on a greyscale) to the paint color as you can be (aka if you are spraying a bright yellow, it should be a white primer, if you are spraying a black, it should be a black primer)

Andyrew


if i get this right, at this stage i can symply use a primer sealer that will help taken away the inperfections.

I was using the glass filler to do so, most of them are out. I have very litle dots left here and there. I was about to use the same primer then go over the body again. a primer sealer will do the rest, if used, all i will heve to do is wet sand before painting. is that correct?

[Andyrew]

If you can use the primer sealer and dont break through to the previous primer you used, then yes you can paint right over that. HOWEVER if you are wet sanding, the issue is that you could wet sand right through to the regular primer you used before, which is BAD because that primer absorbs water and will do bad things after some time when you have painted over it (unknowingly). This is why I dont wetsand, I only sand dry with primer unless I have already done all the bodywork and laid a sealer down in multiple coats. On my last paintjob I didnt wetsand my car at all, Only a colorsand and a buff on the paint.

Unless you buy a gallon of primer that doubles as a sealer and sand till you find low spots then spray more primer at full strength in that area to act as filler (and one coat in the general area that you'll be sanding to build the primer back up), then its probably best to continue using your regular high build primer and drysanding only.

[914itis]

If you can use the primer sealer and dont break through to the previous primer you used, then yes you can paint right over that. HOWEVER if you are wet sanding, the issue is that you could wet sand right through to the regular primer you used before, which is BAD because that primer absorbs water and will do bad things after some time when you have painted over it (unknowingly). This is why I dont wetsand, I only sand dry with primer unless I have already done all the bodywork and laid a sealer down in multiple coats. On my last paintjob I didnt wetsand my car at all, Only a colorsand and a buff on the paint.

Unless you buy a gallon of primer that doubles as a sealer and sand till you find low spots then spray more primer at full strength in that area to act as filler (and one coat in the general area that you'll be sanding to build the primer back up), then its probably best to continue using your regular high build primer and drysanding only.

Thanks. Very informative. I will keep using the same primer, drysand and paint without sealer as you suggested. . What grit do you recommend to do the final drysand?

[Andyrew]

Just to clarify, I DO recommend sealing, but as the final layer just prior to shooting paint.

If you shoot the primer sealer wet on wet (check the primer to ensure that it can be sprayed wet on wet), which is shooting the primer sealer on the car with your primer gun then waiting the flash time (check the primer tech) then spraying your color right over the primer however your going to spray. I Suggest testing this on the engine lid first to ensure you dont have any chemical reaction between the primer and paint, unless you get it all from one paint store and the guy behind the counter says its ok. ALso be sure to reduce the primer sealer ~ 10-15%

If you do the above then you can sand down to say 220 grit (Thats what I did on my car). If not, 300-400 would be fine.

This is assuming a solid colors. Metalics or pearls or anything like that would be 600 grit.

[914itis]

Just to clarify, I DO recommend sealing, but as the final layer just prior to shooting paint.

If you shoot the primer sealer wet on wet (check the primer to ensure that it can be sprayed wet on wet), which is shooting the primer sealer on the car with your primer gun then waiting the flash time (check the primer tech) then spraying your color right over the primer however your going to spray. I Suggest testing this on the engine lid first to ensure you dont have any chemical reaction between the primer and paint, unless you get it all from one paint store and the guy behind the counter says its ok. ALso be sure to reduce the primer sealer ~ 10-15%

If you do the above then you can sand down to say 220 grit (Thats what I did on my car). If not, 300-400 would be fine.

This is assuming a solid colors. Metalics or pearls or anything like that would be 600 grit.

Call me dumb, but I want to make sure i do this right.

1st lets start with wet on wet,does that mean that you are sprayng the sealer over the primer without waiting for it to get dry?

from what I understand, this is what I will do step by step and correct me if i am wrong. keep in ,ind that I have no intention to apply the sealer the same day as primer. it will be at least a 24 Hr waiting period.


1- I will apply one more coat of the same primer over the whole car to cover the patching areas.
2- I will wait and make sure to check with the supplier that he sells me a sealer that is compatible with the primer to prevent chemical reactions.
3 I will spray the sealer after 24 hr at least
4 I will dry sand the sealer with the appropriate sand paper grit.
5- ready to paint with at least 2 coats of paint
6 - wet sand paint in 24 hours
7 aply clear coat after wet sand and I am done.

[jonferns]

When I painted my orange car, I used a Dupont 2K urethane primer, and did my bodywork on that, then re-primed, sanded, etc until it was all smooth and perfect. When I was ready to paint, I sprayed my sealer (Dupont Velvaseal) then, as Andyrew said, waited the flash time and sprayed my color coat on top, wet on wet after the flash time, as per the directions of the products. From my understanding, based on the extensive reading ive done on this subject, the sealer coat is to be done within a few hours of your color coat.

[914itis]

When I painted my orange car, I used a Dupont 2K urethane primer, and did my bodywork on that, then re-primed, sanded, etc until it was all smooth and perfect. When I was ready to paint, I sprayed my sealer (Dupont Velvaseal) then, as Andyrew said, waited the flash time and sprayed my color coat on top, wet on wet after the flash time, as per the directions of the products. From my understanding, based on the extensive reading ive done on this subject, the sealer coat is to be done within a few hours of your color coat.

thanks Jon, now my only question is whats wet on wet?

[Andyrew]

Wet on wet is

Spray primer sealer, Wait 15 mins (or so), while waiting mix your color coat and have it in your color gun. They start spraying your color gun while the primer is still wet. AKA wet paint on top of wet paint.


Your timeframe is wrong. Here is my suggestion.

1. Spray your same primer, wait at least 24 hours (probably longer, I like to wait like 3 days for primer).
2. Sand down primer to at least 220.
3. Spray your primer sealer Wait flash time, aka 15 mins or so.
4. Spray your color waiting flash time between coats with different gun.
5. Wait flash time and spray clear coat with different gun. (Yes this is a long day filled with a lot of ~15 minute waiting times)

You need to read the labels clearly as all paints have different flash times.

[914itis]

Wet on wet is

Spray primer sealer, Wait 15 mins (or so), while waiting mix your color coat and have it in your color gun. They start spraying your color gun while the primer is still wet. AKA wet paint on top of wet paint.


Your timeframe is wrong. Here is my suggestion.

1. Spray your same primer, wait at least 24 hours (probably longer, I like to wait like 3 days for primer).
2. Sand down primer to at least 220.
3. Spray your primer sealer Wait flash time, aka 15 mins or so.
4. Spray your color waiting flash time between coats with different gun.
5. Wait flash time and spray clear coat with different gun. (Yes this is a long day filled with a lot of ~15 minute waiting times)

You need to read the labels clearly as all paints have different flash times.

Thank you sooo much....I owe you a couple beers.

[Andyrew]

Sounds good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Make friends with your paint shop and run everything by them. Most have their own techniques that work well with their house paint or specific materials they know work well.

Good luck! I'll be watchin! Your moving pretty damn quick!