Paul's phoenix red restoration Thread, GT clone Options

[Andyrew]

Epoxy primer will go over anything you'll buy in the store as primer filler (which is most likely urithane).

Your fine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

as you suggested, " One thing to note, 1 gal of the primer will make 1.5 gallons sprayable. You can use this instead of the primer that you have been using. "

I was going to use that as a primer to finish the body work without the reducer. is that still ok? because I can get that at my local paint shop while waiting for the paint.

Ya thats perfectly fine.

If your going to spray that for doing bodywork then your perfectly fine. The only thing I have concern about is the color is a bit dark and you'll have an issue with coverage. If you can get the paint store to make it lighter then you will be GOLDEN. You could just sand it to 220-300 and spray the paint (without having to do any wet on wet stuff..)

[914itis]

Oh and I would thin the epoxy with medium or fast reducer (I used fast reducer and it was ~ 70 deg, then I used medium reducer on the paint) 10-15%.

does it make a difference since i will not paint right away? , i still have to prime seal again right before paint. 30 minutes before right?

[Andyrew]

No, Once you have primer sealer on there then its on there. But if your going to do bodywork and get it all perfect, your probably going to go past your epoxy primer in sanding so then its best to lay a final layer of epoxy primer down then sand it (As a final check to make sure that its as good as you want it) to 300 or so after waiting for it to dry fully (read labels).

OR if your confident that your body is as good as you want it, then YES you can paint it wet on wet.

[Andyrew]

I see you quoted the thinning. Its a good idea to thin your primer sealer because it'll have less imperfections and it'll come out the gun much nicer, This is unnecessary if your sanding it, but still a good idea.
But if your spraying wet on wet, then I would reduce it. You can use the reducer that you get from the paint, or ask the paint shop what he recommends for reducer, and probably just give you a small pint of it for $10.

Technically you could use acetone for reducer on the primer, but I would stick to some good reducer to avoid possible chemical reactions

[914itis]

I am lost again .

To simplify. I will use the primer sealer with reducer to do the body work. Will Sand it down, if perfect give it a full coat to cover the body patches . Let it dry for about three days then sand with about 300 . Then when I am ready to paint, mixed the primer sealer again with reducer and. Spray the whole car about 30 minute before paint.

[Andyrew]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Use the primer sealer at full strength (if your primer gun can handle full strength, if its a 1.4mm tip gun, most likely not, 1.8mm+ tip will be able to handle it) to to bodywork

Sand it down, if perfect give it a full coat to seal the bodywork.

Wait 3 days (or read label), sand down to 300~ grit.

IF your primer is color matched to your paint, then you ready to spray paint right over this dry primer!

However

If your primer you have been using is not color matched, get it color matched @ paint shop. A light grey would be perfect.

Then when your ready to spray, spray 1 or 2 coats of this color matched primer(If it hides the previous color in one coat 100% then one coat is fine), then wait 20-30 minutes and spray your paint.

If you need to color match the primer, (When I say color match I mean on a grey scale) then you should take your paint and your leftover primer down to the paint shop and tell them you want them make a quart of this primer that you plan on spraying wet on wet with this paint. They will get a quart can, fill it ~ 1/2 way and fill the rest with white or whatever they feel will be close. Ask them how much it will be before they do it, I wouldnt think it would be more than 20 bucks. Color matching isnt rocket science, Its just the closer it is the faster you will get full coverage of your paint.

[914itis]

I have done quite a bit of work in the last few days, but not that much, the body work is almost complete, I am working on patching the pin holes.

I also discovered that using a bright spot light at dark helps me detect the imperfections. I am hoping to complete that tonight, and hopefully seal the primer soon.

I got my rims and the front suspension from a 912E, I will try to post some pics soon.

[Andyrew]

Pin holes suck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

After sanding filler I like going over it with an air compressor to expose any pin holes then I typically use a glazing puddy. I also like to go with a 50/50 mix of glazing puddy and filler on my last layer of filler so that I can avoid as many pin holes as possible.

Lighting is really important in bodywork, I have an 10' florescent bulb across my garage that really lights up the area well!

Congrats on the progress!

[914itis]

Pin holes suck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

After sanding filler I like going over it with an air compressor to expose any pin holes then I typically use a glazing puddy. I also like to go with a 50/50 mix of glazing puddy and filler on my last layer of filler so that I can avoid as many pin holes as possible.

Lighting is really important in bodywork, I have an 10' florescent bulb across my garage that really lights up the area well!

Congrats on the progress!

Thanks , I would be lost without you, at lwast I have a better idea of what I"am doing now.

[914itis]

Andrew, what sequence would you suggest as far as painting the trunks, interior and jambs? would you paint them first, then the exterior?

[Andyrew]

Yes. Trunks and interior and jambs first. If your going to stage that, then interior and trunks, then jambs.


Exterior should be last so any overspray goes on your trunks or jambs, which is no big deal. As apposed to your prized exterior.


Also this would be a good time to spray the engine bay, the undersides of the trunks and engine lid, as well as under the targa bar the inside of the targa sails.

Personally I went and did it in many go arounds to get a hang of spraying and to see if I had runs, so that I could go back and adjust my speed and try again on these non crucial area's.

[914itis]

Yes. Trunks and interior and jambs first. If your going to stage that, then interior and trunks, then jambs.


Exterior should be last so any overspray goes on your trunks or jambs, which is no big deal. As apposed to your prized exterior.


Also this would be a good time to spray the engine bay, the undersides of the trunks and engine lid, as well as under the targa bar the inside of the targa sails.

Personally I went and did it in many go arounds to get a hang of spraying and to see if I had runs, so that I could go back and adjust my speed and try again on these non crucial area's.

Thanks

[914itis]

I am getting ready to prime seal, the primer says 4-1 and the reduicer says 10%.

Do I reduice first with 10% , then do the 4-1

or do I mix 4-1 first then reduice the mix with 10%?

[914itis]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

where are the paint experts.. waiting for an answer.............to prime.

[Andyrew]

I know you got my pm, but just for sake of doccumentation. If it's 4 to 1 to 10%, then you go 4 parts paint, then 1 part hardener then 10% reducer. Most mixing cups have this already spelled out in detail on the cup.

[914itis]

I spent about 6 hours today, sanding and fixing small imperfections. I was doing good, until I mixed my primer and priming part of the quarter panel, my brand new HF pneumatic air compressor decided to stop working. I spent a few hours trying to figure the issue to no result. I ran to sears at 8:30 pm and they didn't have any decent one in stock, I guest I have to wait for tomorrow.

The quarter panel looks pretty nice and straight. I was happy
I also ran to another issue, i noticed that the the hood is bubbling up at different spots. the hood was previously primed by the PO, all I had to do was patching small holes. also the primer cracks all over the jambs ,( the primer that was sprayed by the PO. It looks like after he had the car media blasted, he primed it. I am not sure if it is happening because the car was sitting for too long with the epoxy primer without sealing.
The good news is that, I changed the doors trunks and i had to redo the putty work on the fenders to properly mount the flairs. i know that I may have some of that primer somewhere on the fenders , covered with putty. hopefully they will be fine.


I will remove the front hood and use airplane paint remover to remove the old primer and re-prime.

I was reading on one of the treads that when priming the bare metal, there is a step to follow before priming. I think i had ti use 40 grit to help the primer catch the metal. I will be looking for that thread.

I will post some pics tomorrow.

[914itis]

ok, I returned that compressor today and got me a 30 gallons craftsman. I was able to prime thw whole car, after primed I noticed a lot of imperfections.


A friend of mined showed me a litle trick and ity works perfect.

He had me buy a special blackl spray and spray it over the primer, than sand block, this helps me correcty the imperfectios justy by tryng to take the black ray off with the sander. it works like a charm..


I put in a total of 4 Hours. I used the techique on the drivers side quater panel, i will attempt to finosh that side in the morming,

[Cairo94507]

Wow we just used plain old black paint (or any color really) as a guide coat to block the cars when I was painting. So long as you are using a block and long board to do this you should be fine. Never use just your hands with a folded piece of paper when trying to get the car read for color.

Good luck, can't wait to see some pictures with color on that car.
Michael

[Andyrew]

Guide coat.

After spraying primer just MIST over the area's you primed. When you sand down the low spots show with the black spots. You keep sanding evenly over that larger area till either the black spot is gone or you hit metal. If you hit metal either fill spot with glazing putty after ruffing up with grit as mentioned on glazing putty or you give it another shoot of primer filler over that spot and repeat.

http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-block-98167.html
This is a great tool for getting the body flat. Its rigid but it conforms to the body just enough to work well on the curved hoods, doors, and fenders. Use sticky sandpaper on it.

[914itis]

Guide coat.

After spraying primer just MIST over the area's you primed. When you sand down the low spots show with the black spots. You keep sanding evenly over that larger area till either the black spot is gone or you hit metal. If you hit metal either fill spot with glazing putty after ruffing up with grit as mentioned on glazing putty or you give it another shoot of primer filler over that spot and repeat.

http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-block-98167.html
This is a great tool for getting the body flat. Its rigid but it conforms to the body just enough to work well on the curved hoods, doors, and fenders. Use sticky sandpaper on it.

Thanks, look like we are moving at the same speed. I ordered my paint today. If received by the weekend and everything else goes well, I will be painting sunday.