Oil viscosity and engine heating Options

[messix]

do you have stock heat exchangers? are the heat ducting hooked up still? lower cooling air guide tins still in place?

[Bartlett 914]

do you have stock heat exchangers? are the heat ducting hooked up still? lower cooling air guide tins still in place?

I have fully functional SSI heat exchangers. All cooling tins are in place.

[Cap'n Krusty]

how is your timing? might be off after a long run and may contribute to your hot running conditions.
Consider also, remove the plastic tray under the engine lid...might give you back a few degrees.

I drove with my decklid open one hot summer day coming back from PA through NYC traffic....that did the trick....just a bit more air was all it needed.

RIch

I took out the rain tray. This made a big enough difference to get me here.

I will re check my timing.

I got some 10 w 30 Royal Purple. I will change it out tomorrow.

I thought the altitude would make me rich also. Speaking with my customer who is a big bike fan, he said the altitude here also made him lean and had to richen up. He also said when he would go to Oregon he needed to lean out. His thoughts were the humidity was the difference.

All in all, I still have time. I will be here another week. I want to try one thing at a time. In the morning I will disconnect the air temperature sensor. In the evening I will change the oil. Still need a vacuum gauge.

10w30 is WAY too thin. WAY. 20w50's the proper viscosity for your engine and the ambient temps.

The Cap'n

The Cap'n

[Jake Raby]

Cap'n I am glad to see you post that.. Perhaps the Parrots will now go roost...

[r_towle]

I agree, I run 20w50 in the summer and 10w 30 in the winter...but I dont really drive the car in the winter anymore...so I leave it alone now.

10w30 does get to thin in the summer for these cars.

Rich

[Bartlett 914]

how is your timing? might be off after a long run and may contribute to your hot running conditions.
Consider also, remove the plastic tray under the engine lid...might give you back a few degrees.

I drove with my decklid open one hot summer day coming back from PA through NYC traffic....that did the trick....just a bit more air was all it needed.

RIch

I took out the rain tray. This made a big enough difference to get me here.

I will re check my timing.

I got some 10 w 30 Royal Purple. I will change it out tomorrow.

I thought the altitude would make me rich also. Speaking with my customer who is a big bike fan, he said the altitude here also made him lean and had to richen up. He also said when he would go to Oregon he needed to lean out. His thoughts were the humidity was the difference.

All in all, I still have time. I will be here another week. I want to try one thing at a time. In the morning I will disconnect the air temperature sensor. In the evening I will change the oil. Still need a vacuum gauge.

10w30 is WAY too thin. WAY. 20w50's the proper viscosity for your engine and the ambient temps.

The Cap'n

The Cap'n

Damn! Now I am not so sure what to do. For sure, my car runs hotter than it used to. I put a lot of miles on this car this year, 5K before May and I never ran so hot. Today I did some errands and the gauge went somewhat high pretty early. The "P" in temp was covered. This is not too hot! but it got there a little too fast for a 15 minute run in somewhat cool air temperatures. I have made component changes since May. I installed the correct distributor and the correct injectors. The rest is the same. Both changes made the car run nicer. This is why I was thinking the problem is the oil. That is the biggest and newest change. I never ran the brad penn 50W oil before. Maybe I will take the 30W oil back for 40W.

[r_towle]

get 20w50 oil...
The temp gauge you are reading is the oil temp guage, not the engine temp gauge (there is not one) nor the head temp gauge.

Its an oil temp gauge so it will read high if you run the wrong oil and it will get there faster if you use the 30 weight oil.

20w50 is at most parts stores.

[Bartlett 914]

get 20w50 oil...
The temp gauge you are reading is the oil temp guage, not the engine temp gauge (there is not one) nor the head temp gauge.

Its an oil temp gauge so it will read high if you run the wrong oil and it will get there faster if you use the 30 weight oil.

20w50 is at most parts stores.

I know that I am measuring the oil temperature. I don't have a cylinder head temperature gauge.

I am running 20w 50 oil It is Brad Penn

[r_towle]

oh, I thought you said you had 10w30 in there now.
I get it....

Well, go get more 20w50..

And take a look at your timing...you could have adjusted that to much advanced and that will heat it up fast...even a few degrees advanced will do it.

Rich

[Bleyseng]

Sounds like changing the dizzy is your problem. Re time the engine to 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpms with hoses off and plugged. Advance timing will heat up the engine.

[0396]

Good luck with your temp concerns.. and congrats on your short trip (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Bartlett 914]

Thanks for all the replies. The input was helpful. Removing TS2 did more than I expected. I was Reno 2 weeks. I had a great time. I also spent the weekend in Tahoe with my wife as she flew out to meet me. I did not change the oil but I am still suspecting this added to the heat. I ran back to Chicago over the weekend. I left Friday night and made it home midnight Sunday. That is 1920 miles in 2 days. Wyoming and Nebraska were hot. My temperature was about 1/4 to 1/2" from the red and stable. AFR around 13.5. I still have some work to figure out what is wrong. I don't like the FP so high. Something is wrong. No time to play. I am off to Cincinnati.

[Jake Raby]

Get a real gauge with incremental values. No one knows what "red" is.
AND the gauges are slower than christmas to respond to changes in temp.