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> To what # do you torque your spark plugs?, 25 lbs seems like a lot
nebreitling
post Jul 9 2004, 07:43 PM
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talking T-4's here

i've always just "felt it", afraid to go to tight for fear of stripping. happened to glance at Haynes tonight, it says 25 lbs. that feels way too tight... can someone clear it up for me?

nathan
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TimT
post Jul 9 2004, 08:27 PM
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Im sure I wll be flamed....

but I dont think I have EVER torqued a spark plug..

turn it in hand tight, till snug, then turn by wrench about .75 turns

30 yrs and still working on all sorts of engines


And 25 ft/lbs really isnt that much
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Gint
post Jul 9 2004, 08:41 PM
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I'll take the heat with ya Tim.

Niether have I. Never. Never stripped a plug hole. Exhaust and intake studs are another matter.
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skline
post Jul 9 2004, 08:51 PM
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I use a 3/8 ratchet and torque them to one grunt
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campbellcj
post Jul 9 2004, 09:33 PM
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Same here. I think the usual wisdom is to hand-tighten and then "barely" snug them down with the wrench; certainly 1/2-3/4 turn should do the trick.

I use a tiny bit of antiseize on the threads as well, although I think that may be another controversial item.
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J P Stein
post Jul 9 2004, 09:43 PM
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It's 18 ft/lbs for 9eleben plugs....I've even tried it a couple times (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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scruz914
post Jul 9 2004, 09:51 PM
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I'm looking at this thread and wondering, torque wrench on a spark plug?

I am with the others. Screw in by hand (no cross threading) and pick your wrench; 1/2 or 3/8, grunt to set the copper washer.

-Jeff
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gskinner
post Jul 9 2004, 09:53 PM
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I put plugs in last night. Being a novice at all of this, I was looking for any opportunity to use my new torque wrench....all-in-all 25ft-lbs. did seem to be overly tight.
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nebreitling
post Jul 9 2004, 10:20 PM
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QUOTE(TimT @ Jul 9 2004, 06:27 PM)

And 25 ft/lbs really isnt that much

yeah, i realize that, but it's a fair amount more than i've ever done, which is just past "hand tight".

just curious (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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Gint
post Jul 9 2004, 10:40 PM
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QUOTE
I put plugs in last night. Being a novice at all of this, I was looking for any opportunity to use my new torque wrench....all-in-all 25ft-lbs. did seem to be overly tight.


The longer lever arm of the torque wrench will make it seem easier because your actually performing less work.
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Carl
post Jul 10 2004, 12:19 AM
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QUOTE
The longer lever arm of the torque wrench will make it seem easier because your actually performing less work.


Say what? Do you know how much work it was to get that wrench in there? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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maf914
post Jul 10 2004, 07:29 AM
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QUOTE(Gint @ Jul 9 2004, 08:40 PM)
The longer lever arm of the torque wrench will make it seem easier because your actually performing less work.

Okay, time to nit-pik! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Actually, with a longer lever the force is less, but the work is the same. You apply less force over a greater distance. Work = Force x Distance.

I have never torqued a spark plug either. I get 'em snug then give a careful part turn. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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newdeal2
post Jul 10 2004, 07:48 AM
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I use a T wrench with the spring due to the awkward angle and hand tighten. You dont want too much torque on spark plugs. You can also keep it in the trunk just in case.

Peter
74 2 Liter
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Mark Henry
post Jul 10 2004, 08:23 AM
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I've built 100's of engines and I always torque them on the stand, but rarely (as in never, LOL) in the car, then again my "guess" may be better than others.

I use to torque them to 25lbs, but one stripped thread on a new engine stopped that PDQ. I now torque them to 15lbs.
You must apply enough torque to crush the washer on new plugs, or you can have a leak. I've been using the copper anti-seize with no issues.
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bondo
post Jul 10 2004, 02:10 PM
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Heh, I wouldn't trust that haynes fella any farther than I could throw him (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) My brother actually burned his haynes manual for his truck after it told him to remove everything under his dash to change the heater core, after which he discovered a removable panel at the bottom of the heater box. Nothing actually had to come off except a cover, and two hose clamps. It turned a 45 minute job into an all day job. "every book based on a complete tear-down" is great.... if that's what you're going for. Chances are that 25 ft-lbs is just standard haynes manual boilerplate that didn't get changed because of aluminum heads. Has anyone checked the Porsche manual and made the Nm to ft-lbs conversion?

/rant
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Joe Ricard
post Jul 11 2004, 07:47 AM
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When I put in plugs, I choke up on the ratchet and turn till the tendon in my wrist sticks out. Plug don't turn no more and I have never had one come out by it's self. Good to keep the threads clean and maybe some oil on the plug threads.

"I always lube my nuts & bolts prior to installation".
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