Just ordered my spray gun, New technology gun Options

[thomasotten]

I just ordered my spray gun. I chose a Divilbiss G670 gun. This is a new technology gun that claims to be perfect for low air consumption. This may be the ideal gun for us do it at home types - I have a 30 gal. sears compressor. It is rated for 9cfm @ 30 psi.

Technically, it is not classified as an HVLP gun, but it offers the same benefits such as > 65% transfer effeciency.

paid $275. Anyone else paint their own?

(IMG:http://www.spraygunworld.com/Database/DEV/GFG670.jpg)

[seanery]

keep us up to date on this. I'm interested as I plan on painting the race car myself.

[newdeal2]

That's a nice gun. Gravity feed is good and low air pressure is even better. You want to get the paint on the car with as little pressure as possible [so my body man says]. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Rusty]

I just ordered my spray gun. I chose a Divilbiss G670 gun. This is a new technology gun that claims to be perfect for low air consumption.

I have a couple of Devilblis clone HVLP guns. One for paint/clear, one for primer. I love them.

I'm interested in the new technology behind this one. What makes it new?

-Rusty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)

[tdgray]

I'm interested in the new technology behind this one.  What makes it new?  

-Rusty

Actually, this is not new technology, just relativley professionaly undesired technology.

I believe this is what they call LVLP, the bastard son of HVLP. Low Volume Low Pressure. Your right it is better for do-it-yourselfers because we are often underpowered in the air category. The drawback with these is that the atomization of the sprayable material is not as good as the HVLP therefore you get a less dense coat with each pass. In a professional shop where the speed = money this would slow you down. This is actually a good thing considering most novice painters tend to hang runs with a HVLP gun but it could also leave you with a "dry" paint job that looks splotchy. It does however still give you the advantage of less overspray therefore using less paint just like HVLP.

[thomasotten]

This is what I copied from the Devilbiss website. Apparently it is the first non-HVLP spray gun to get the OK from the EPA in states. I don't really know what makes a gun qualify as HVLP, but this one meets the government requirements. The people over at Autobody101.com forum say that alot of professional sprayers are going to this gun. It just seemed like the perfect gun for the do it yourselfer in the garage.

High solids clearcoat gun of choice –
Precision-engineered #410 air cap lays out
a smooth, high gloss finish
■ High speed coverage saves time – 20% larger spray
pattern and 15% more fluid flow than many spray guns
due to optimized air cap and new tip design
■ High transfer efficiency – Greater than 65% transfer
efficiency saves material and improves visibility
■ Instant performance and value – Includes three tips
(eliminates guesswork) plus air adjusting valve with
gauge and E-Z Liner™ disposable cup liners.
■ Superior metallic distribution for no mottling or
striping – Optimum color matching capabilities
■ Lightweight and comfortable
■ Simple, economical servicing – Air cap, fluid tips and
needle are fully interchangeable and available separately.
One needle fits all tip sizes. Reduces chance for mismatch
of parts
■ Easy to clean – Plated gun body is gun washer safe and
maintains its ”like new“ appearance. Smooth cup with
wide opening
■ Stainless steel fluid tip and needle
■ Less time spent on refills – True 1-Liter aluminum cup
with disposable push-on lid
■ Quick clean up and upside down spraying (no cup
leaks) – with “E-Z Liner™“ disposable cup liners
■ PLUS gravity gun includes:
1.2 mm, 1.3 mm, and 1.4 mm fluid tips
1-Liter aluminum cup (120175/GFC-502) with push on lid
Air adjusting valve with gauge (180006/HAV-501)
Spray lube, fluid filter, gun hook
(9) E-Z Liner™ disposable cup liners (190966/OMX-70-K48)
Specifications
Air consumption: 9 cfm at 30 psi inlet pressure

[eeyore]

I learned to spray with an old siphon feed high pressure gun. The beauty of that thing is you could adjust the fan down to a point, crank up the air, and really get into all the nooks and crannys of whatever I was spraying -- I've not sprayed a 914, but the hell hole and up inside the front fenders come to mind.

Here's what the skeptic in me sees in the literature:

Low pressure combined with "High speed coverage" seems like another way of saying "this things puts out (poorly atomized) paint very fast, so runs in your paint are even easier than before"

1 liter paint cup. Ever hold a liter of paint at arms length for 10 minutes? That, plus the size of the cup will have you bumping into things -- if you're lucky, they haven't been covered in wet paint yet.

I don't think the HVLP 'revolution' made things easier, just different. Paint guns are paint guns, any will do with appropriate technique. Oh, and resign yourself to the inevitability of color sanding and buffing.

Best of luck!

[thomasotten]

The gun has gotten some very good feedback on the autobody forum. Follow the link below...

AutoBody101 Forum Discussion on this gun

[IronHillRestorations]

Looks nice!

Make sure you have as high a quality moisture filter. Moisture contamination is usually the main problem with getting a good finish. Good moisture filters aren't cheap.

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[morph]

LVLP & HVLP are the result of strict requirements of the epa.i use a binks hvlp for a primer gun it works awsome.atomization is the most important as for it makes the paint lay better due to less surface tension of the material.i have never used a LVLP. but i prefer the hvlp,s i have they work awsome

[Katmanken]

Kenny got a HVLP gun with turbine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

87% paint transfer to the car, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

NO moisture from da turbine, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

HOT air from turbine (for better paint atomization) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif)

And yes, you can make a run but ya really gotta work at it. Just back off on the fluid flow if you don't want runs.

Downside, it's whiney........ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

sounds just like a $600 vacuum cleaner..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Ken (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowtorch.gif)

[F4i]

$600.00 vacume cleaner (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I know a guy that uses a shop vac for his hvlp.

[TBrads914/6]

Been in paint for years and I work for Toyota Motor MFG. KY. as a Group Leader in the paint shop. The HVLP guns hit the market years ago to deal with the EPA not for the finish. Atomizing the paint gives you good coverage and a smoother finish. It's like covering your floor with ping pong balls or basket balls. The ping pong ball size will give a better cover and flow out smoother. We are going to Sata guns at work. They are the gun most of the custom paint guys are using. I've used DeVillbis in the past and was always pleased by how they performed. The real trick that is most often overlooked is viscosity. If you don't have a good mix your finish will suffer. If you really want to see some coverage, check out a pressure fed electrostatic gun. Of course there are techniques that go along with it as well. The spray gun companies are getting really competitive and of course everything is new and improved even if it isn't. I deal with vendors all the time pushing the gotta have it guns. I never used the gun described but would say you'd be satisfied.

[thomasotten]

Ok, here are the results of my first day with the Devilbiss G670 gun. I must say I am very impressed with this gun.

Setup:

Sears Compressor - 33 gal.
Air guage set at about 35psi at the gun.
1.4mm fluid tip installed.
I used a fender from a 92 Accord, sanded it down with 400.
I sprayed Sealer, base coat, and 2 coats of clear.

This is the second time I have ever sprayed anything on a car. My other gun is a Sears conventional gun, and I can already tell this gun blows it away. It lays paint down nice and smooth, and is very efficient. I was able to do several coats on this fender without my compressor kicking on. I remember when I used the Sears gun, there would be overspray everywhere, and a mist of paint in the air, but this gun just lays it down, and it dries fast. Very sweet.

[Brett W]

Looks like you got some orange peel or dry spray in it. Take it out in the bright sun and see if you got any mottling if you used a metallic.

I just can't get into the HVLP,LVLP stuff. I am afraid it doesn't atomize the base and clear well enough. Since I live in a none EPA state I can use any gun I choose. Wish I could afford a SATA but I will probably go with Devilbiss.

Good luck with your painting. One of the most important things to keep in mind is GO SLOW.

[thomasotten]

Looks like you got some orange peel

Yes, I did get some orange peel, but it is very minor. In fact, I have seen a lot of factory finishes lately that have orange peel. I don't know what that's about. I think the main reason I got orance peel is because I moved the gun to fast.

[Brett W]

Yes lots of american cars have really bad orange peel. I think their paint process leaves a bit to be desired. When my car was running I parked it next to a 2002 Camaro SS at the local autocross. I couldn't beleive the amount of orange peel in the side of his car. I would never have paid for a 30K$ car with that crappy of a paint job.


Most orange peel is caused by:
Surface Drying too fast, Wrong air pressure adjustment
Improper thinning solvent
Under reduction
Lack of proper material flow.

What brand materials are you using?

[Mark Henry]

I have both a high end Devilbiss HVLP (can't remember the number off hand) and a high pressure Devilbiss JGA. I like them both but the HVLP takes about 25% longer to paint a car. It took me a while to slow down and get a good finish. I use the JGA for primers and save the HVLP for finishing only.

[thomasotten]

Ok guys, for those of you who wanted to keep updated on my do-it-yourself paint experience. I had the opportunity to paint my brother's honda. He bought a wrecked honda that needed the front fenders, hood, and bumper replaced, and I told him I would shoot it for practice. This was the first time using the Devilbiss 670 "plus". The gun is awesome. I only got two runs, and that was in the primer/sealer. I just got impatient and laid it on too thick. I also ran into some imperfections laying on the metallic basecoat, basically faint streaks. I think I can get better at that with practice. Also, I had a fair amount of orange peel in the clear coat, but I was able to buff all that out. See the photo. It looks pretty darn good. The gun is very forgiving, and you can go slow and not get runs, which is great for us newbies.

The white spots is just compound splattered on the hood. Has a nice glassy shine!

[Brett W]

Looks good.

Yeah Metallics can be tricky. I ran into the same problems. Did you run a drop coat over the last coat of basecoat? If you turn your gun down to something like 10-20psi and step back and lightly dust the last light coat on it should do away with the mottling.

When you buffed it out did you use a foam or wool pad? Make sure you keep plenty of water on it when you are buffing it keeps from getting the paint to hot.