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> rebuild after Willow Springs bump, engine rebuild too...
siverson
post Sep 2 2011, 09:41 PM
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I've been slowly sorting through the mess I made for myself about a month ago at Willow Springs, and have 1 quote to fix the dent.

I'm trying to decide between (A) repairing my chassis, and (B) getting a new chassis and moving all my parts over.

I feel ridiculous even considering scrapping my chassis when I see some of the crazy "rustoration" threads here, but the fact is it's probably going to be about the same cost to straighten this chassis versus buying a donor chassis/car and building it back up.

I'm going to take this "opportunity" to fix/improve some other things on the car while I have it all apart, but I need to figure out my chassis plan first. Here are my options:

A: If I repair my current chassis ($10k - $12k):

- Find front clip
- Remove Brad Meyeur kit (to be replaced with Engman kit)
- Remove/cut existing reinforcing tubes
- Celette bench, weld new clip
- Fix front right fender/flare (it was also damaged, that strut broke)
- Add Engman kit
- Add back reinforcement

B: Build up a donor car/chassis and move over all my parts ($10k - $15k):

- Find a donor car/chassis
- Remove all rust/prep chassis. Rust repairs.
- Add 4 steel GT flares
- Maybe also put this one on a Celette bench first too to make sure it's straight.
- Add Engman kit
- Add chassis reinforcement
- Lots of small modifications I had already made: lower drivers floor/seat, close up a bunch of unused holes/make it cleaner, lots of seam welding, dash modifications, etc, etc

... plus full R&R on the front suspension/etc, but I need to do that regardless of my chassis plan.

With A it "my" original car, but with B I actually think I might end up with a nicer end result because I'm going through almost everything again, but it's probably a little more money and A LOT more work for me (versus 95% of A is just me writing a check). Am I off on my prices?

So, what do you think? A or B?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

-Steve

p.s. And... the other strange factor is that this car/chassis was my first car and I've had it for almost 20 years. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) But, given how much I've already modified the car, most of those "original" parts aren't there anyways. I think if I got a new chassis and moved over all my parts, it would still feel pretty much like "my" car... I'm not super attached to that specific VIN... Or am I? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)








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siverson
post Sep 2 2011, 09:44 PM
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siverson
post Sep 2 2011, 09:46 PM
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A couple hours earlier...

That front bumper had been built and chromed about 4 months ago...


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Loser_Cruiser
post Sep 2 2011, 09:47 PM
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I have been facing the same dilemma, unfortunately my original chassies wasn't as nice as yours. I decided to just start with a new chassies.

Is that a 915 and what shifting mechanism is that?, sorry for the ot question.
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siverson
post Sep 2 2011, 09:51 PM
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> Is that a 915 and what shifting mechanism is that

Yes, 84 915 w/ factory LSD and Vellios "916" kit. It was the best option at the time (1997), but I think their are better options now (Wevo, etc).

-Steve
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shuie
post Sep 2 2011, 09:51 PM
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A.

You know for sure what you are dealing with, you know your $$$ estimate is solid, and you know that the rest of the car is already done. And, it wil make for a better story (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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1970 Neun vierzehn
post Sep 2 2011, 10:05 PM
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If you have 100% confidence in a proper, correct repair under scenario "A", then I would go that route. That car has history, will now be resurrected and put right, and will then continue to provide pleasure (and frustration to a degree) and just add to the cars' "provenance". Yeah, that's a sentimentalist point-of-view, but you must admit that you are somewhat attached to the car after all those years.

Paul
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Valy
post Sep 2 2011, 10:52 PM
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Sorry to see your car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Been through something similar.
Your biggest problem are the reinforcements that passed the stress to the rest of the car so everything is off.
It's _very_ difficult to fix and it will never have the same stiffness again. Best you can expect from the fixed car is a crippled DD.

I see that you like to race/AX/enjoy the car so, if you have the patience and time, buy a new chassis.

Also consider that you'll have to strip the care to the bone anyway. I bet that fixing your chassis will be more expensive then painting a new one.
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ellisor3
post Sep 3 2011, 03:14 AM
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I like A too. It's the devil you know vs. the one you don't. Beautiful set up.
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rick 918-S
post Sep 3 2011, 08:10 AM
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That's a tough call and toss of the coin. If you decide to strip your chassis and transfer the parts to another car. I will buy your bent shell. I have a trailer and can come and get it.
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 08:56 AM
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> It's _very_ difficult to fix and it will never have the same stiffness again.

The shop that would do the work (European Auto Body in Escondido) knows 914s and I think would do great work.

I had that same concern. What do others think on this? Does a straightened chassis lose a lot of its strength? I was thinking that by adding reinforcement (and maybe more than before for a semi-tube frame build) that the car could get be even stiffer than before. But would those same reinforcement on a new chassis be even better...

Hmmmmm...

-Steve

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mepstein
post Sep 3 2011, 09:18 AM
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Remember, once this is all fixed up, there is nothing preventing it from happening the very next time you get on the track. At least accidents on the road are usually covered by insurance. You might want to decide how much you can afford to write off on a racecar when you plan the next build/rebuild.

Either way, best of luck. mark
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tscrihfield
post Sep 3 2011, 09:34 AM
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Steve,
1st of all. Sorry about the car!

Just my $.02... This car can be repaired... You are going to need a frame puller and a lot of jig building. Judging by how far that the roof is tweaked makes me think that the damage is further into the car than the nose. Inspect the longs and see if there are kinks in them or creases. If there are post photos of them. If they are ~ shaped than that means you have some shrink, that means somewhere else you have stretch... Not the end of the world because folks have been fixing that sort of thing since the beginning of auto repair... But it may mean replacing some pieces that you didnt anticipate. I do agree with your statement of strength though. After an impact it is very hard to get the car back to the rigid piece it once was, not that these 914's are super rigid to start....

I would say rebuild if you can! That car is very nice!

Thomas
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Brett W
post Sep 3 2011, 10:04 AM
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W are talking steel here. If the chassis is properly pulled by someone who understands these chassis there is no reason it can't be pulled back to where it should without overworking the metal. Once the chassis is in line on the Cellete and it has been checked to make sure the chassis is straight, then putting it back on the Cellete and welding in the reinforcements will pose no problems and you can make the chassis stronger than it was before. The cost difference is pretty much irrelevant. The chassis swap would be easier, because your not having to go backwards, but there would be more work involved in getting the chassis back to where the current one is.

To me it seems like a toss up. If I were doing the work I would find starting with another chassis easier, but either way can be done.
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 10:38 AM
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> You are going to need a frame puller and a lot of jig building.

Yes, we know we have to put on on a Celette bench with the 914 fixtures.

> Remember, once this is all fixed up, there is nothing preventing it from happening the very next time you get on the track.

Yup, as much as I love driving this car on the track, I think this accident has ruined it for me. I don't do track days often, but if I go again I'm going to get a $15k boxster (or something) that can be my simple "track car". Not that I want to throw $15k away crashing a boxster either, but in retrospect I'd feel A LOT better about wrecking a $15k boxster than causing $15k of damaged to this car. This car was too nice for the track (nice paint, leather, etc) and I drive it 99% of the time on the street anyways.

-Steve
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BajaXJ92
post Sep 3 2011, 12:16 PM
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Steve,

Sorry to see this. As stated before you've got one of my favorite 914s around.

I guess your tough situation comes down to the question of how sentimental you are about this chassis? If you're confident in your shop's work that they can straighten this one back out, go for it. As you stated before, you'd be putting the rolling chassis on a cellette anyways. Keeping it seems like a whole lot less work.

One thing I didn't see you mention in your approx. cost is paint. I can't imagine it'll be easy paint matching panels, but I guess that depends on how old your paint is. Would you repaint the whole chassis? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If you do get a wild hair, Racer Chris has a Ravenna Green chassis located in CT: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1533132

I'm not sure how fond you are of Ravenna Green, but I think it'd look awesome if you swapped everything over.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Good luck!
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computers4kids
post Sep 3 2011, 12:17 PM
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Steve,
I'm so sorry to hear about your car--I've always admired your sense of detail and perfection for afar.

Question: Your dime or insurance? I ask because, will you end-up with a "salvage" title? To me that is a deal breaker for fixing the car. I know it really doesn't mean a thing for those who understand, but it just becomes a dark cloud that follows the car.

I know your car will be awesome once again even if you fix it.
Mark
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 3 2011, 01:31 PM
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man, this sucks big rotten goose eggs! Professional consult is required here to make a sound descision. call Trever! let him look it over with his experienced eyes. he loves 914s like us but he will give a fair dose of reality about this chassis...good or bad.
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 3 2011, 01:34 PM
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the bend may be at the A pillar and forward only. this woujld affect B pillar door gap and could be isolated damage forward of the B pillar...
Trever AKA "TWISE" will know as soon as he sees it (European Auto Body)
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Als914
post Sep 3 2011, 02:17 PM
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Sorry to see such a nice specimen in any accident. IMHO, do all you can (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) to save it since you've owned that vin number for twenty years...not many can say that about their 914's. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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