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> rebuild after Willow Springs bump, engine rebuild too...
siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 02:26 PM
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> Trever AKA "TWISE" will know as soon as he sees it (European Auto Body)

Yup, it's there now and where I got my quote. Their advice is pretty much the same - they can definitely straighten it, but they can also build a new chassis/flares and the cost will be about the same...

So we know it can be straightened, and also think they do great work, but what's the right decision. I am leaning towards fixing this chassis, but I'm not in a huge rush to make a decision either.

-Steve
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 02:28 PM
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> Question: Your dime or insurance? I ask because, will you end-up with a "salvage" title?

My dime, and no, there would not be a salvage title.
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Lou W
post Sep 3 2011, 02:37 PM
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"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass......
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Wow Steve (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) what a bummer, I've always been impressed with your car. It's funny, initially, I felt B, but since you mentioned that you probably won't do the racing as often once you rebuilt it, I'd probably go with A. There is a sentimental attachment to the car for you.....just like I have with mine. Now if you were going to continue racing it, then that attachment kinda goes away, then I would have said B.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 3 2011, 03:54 PM
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I have helped several guys find a clean donor chassis. it is getting harder to find low rust donors
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 03:59 PM
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> initially, I felt B, but since you mentioned that you probably won't do the racing as often once you rebuilt it, I'd probably go with A

Why do you think that?

Honestly, I think I'd want a car that I'm going to track to be even stiffer and safer than a street car. I've never quite understood that... ?

And... I'm still not convinced that the repaired chassis with reinforcement still wouldn't be very, very stiff.

I'm been toying with the idea of building some sort of "half cage" this time around (door height and lower, and as easy as possible to get into (with a cage)). I'm still not likely to track the car again, but want the car to be stiff and correct.

-Steve
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 04:09 PM
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> it is getting harder to find low rust donors

No kidding, I have been looking around just to see what's available (even if just for a front clip), and so far... not much!
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 04:11 PM
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old photos...
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Valy
post Sep 3 2011, 04:26 PM
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Maybe this point of view will help:

Let's assume you want to buy a 914. You found 2 identical cars that are just what you were looking for and priced the same. The only difference is their history:

- One car was completely rebuilt using some beautiful parts from a concurs car that was damaged in an accident.

- The other car was severely crashed, cut in two and a front clip from some other damaged car was welded in. The combined chassis was measured and aligned using the best available tools.

I would pick the first one without blinking and I'm sure all those who commented on this thread will do the same.

Why would anybody prefer something that was damaged when a perfectly good alternative costs the same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?

And from my past experience, trust me, that old car of yours will never be the same.
Sorry about the old car but I believe it's for your own benefit.
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Lou W
post Sep 3 2011, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(Valy @ Sep 3 2011, 03:26 PM) *

Maybe this point of view will help:

Let's assume you want to buy a 914. You found 2 identical cars that are just what you were looking for and priced the same. The only difference is their history:

- One car was completely rebuilt using some beautiful parts from a concurs car that was damaged in an accident.

- The other car was severely crashed, cut in two and a front clip from some other damaged car was welded in. The combined chassis was measured and aligned using the best available tools.

I would pick the first one without blinking and I'm sure all those who commented on this thread will do the same.

Why would anybody prefer something that was damaged when a perfectly good alternative costs the same (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ?

And from my past experience, trust me, that old car of yours will never be the same.
Sorry about the old car but I believe it's for your own benefit.



Good Point, maybe that's the way to go, can I revote? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 09:43 PM
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> cut in two and a front clip from some other damaged car was welded in.

I'm not sure if that's exactly the plan, but I'll find out more details next week. I think the idea is to graft in a corner, but regardless it still could be ugly.
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Brett W
post Sep 3 2011, 09:58 PM
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How do you deal with the glass?
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siverson
post Sep 3 2011, 10:16 PM
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> How do you deal with the glass?

Have new glass made? I really have no idea, but I'm sure it could be done...

I'm just brainstorming, but it is interesting.
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rick 918-S
post Sep 3 2011, 11:56 PM
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Seriously, Repair the chassis you have. You know the car, You just had it painted so color match shouldn't be an issue.

The car looks worse than it is. Really, I would leave all the welded body panels on the car, drop the engine and front and rear suspension, gas tank, dash, ect.

Get it up on the Celette and pull the car. You will need to remove the tubing stiffeners. It will pull easier with them cut out. One the chassis is stress relieved and the front sheet metal is as pre-dimensioned. THEN remove the left fender, both headlight buckets and front nose panel. The rest is simple.

If your not putting the car back on the track forget all the extra tubing. You won't need it. Besides, it's dangerous in a street car. Just check over the chassis spot welds for signs of stress. If the spot welds were stressed you will see it. Seam weld the area or drill and plug weld the area and you'll be fine.

That was a beautiful and it can be just as nice again.

Here's a thread I have started on Sandys Ravenna car. The one was headed for a sawsall party. I saved the fenders. They werte totally kinked.
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cwpeden
post Sep 4 2011, 01:50 AM
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What does your little girl think?

.....Remembering 914 day, July 26th

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Good choice, whatever you decide. The only bad desicion I've ever made was to not drive my 914 when I could have.

Conrad
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nsr-jamie
post Sep 4 2011, 06:12 AM
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Whoa, I am so sorry to see that and shocked...you car was seriously beautiful and kind of like how I wanted to build my car if I had the money...I am very sorry but I hope you decide to rebuild it and not swap parts to another chasis...good luck to you.
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rick 918-S
post Sep 4 2011, 07:18 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Here's a walk down memory lane.


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veltror
post Sep 4 2011, 10:49 AM
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QUOTE(siverson @ Sep 3 2011, 11:09 PM) *

> it is getting harder to find low rust donors





I assume my car is out of the question then...
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 4 2011, 12:43 PM
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I would fix it. while a celette bench would obviously be best I do not think it is a mandatory tool to get it straight.

those diagram/pics show alot of extra steel being added that dont do you any favors street or track.
a street car should be allowed to crush to manage deceleration of impact. this absorbs energy that will not be transfered to the ocupant
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siverson
post Sep 4 2011, 04:59 PM
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> veltror
> I assume my car is out of the question then...

You are exactly who I was thinking of when I've been considering a chassis swap. I mean, how could I give up my this chassis when I look at what you are working with?!?! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


> Sean
> those diagram/pics show alot of extra steel being added that dont do you any favors street or track

Several of those pictures/reinforcement designs are from pretty well respected builders. Do you really think they are worthless additions or ? What about the Engman kit?

-Steve
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 4 2011, 11:01 PM
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each example must be discused in context of the car its in. whats good for a car with a cage is different than what is needed in a non caged car. we should optimize based on how we will use our car.
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