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> not so typical build
veltror
post Sep 4 2011, 10:42 AM
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Stunning, this really is the dogs bollocks
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rohar
post Sep 4 2011, 11:59 AM
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So after sleeping over my visceral excitement, I've got a few questions. Where'd you source the fuel tank? Looks like you ran cooling lines down the center tunnel, what are you doing for insulation around them? What did you do for a clutch pedal solution?
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yellowporky
post Sep 4 2011, 02:36 PM
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I forgot to mention that we retained the power brakes and power steering of the 993. the pedal assembly is stock 993 so the hydraulic clutch was straight forward.
The fuel tank is 964/993 and bolts in to the stock 993 pan as does the pedals, brake fluid reservoir.
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jimkelly
post Sep 4 2011, 02:50 PM
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why are all the most insane fabricators in CA?

that is looking sweet : )

jim
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rohar
post Sep 4 2011, 02:54 PM
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I love the build so far. Guess I'm REALLY gonna have to step up my game this winter with all the amazing builds happening lately.
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Mike Bellis
post Sep 4 2011, 03:45 PM
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QUOTE(jimkelly @ Sep 4 2011, 01:50 PM) *

why are all the most insane fabricators in CA?


Great weather and cheap drugs!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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okieflyr
post Sep 4 2011, 06:20 PM
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That is really cool! Is this going to be a street car? or track only? I am interested to see how you did the pwr brake setup. I couldn't see any bead flair on your coolant tubes. I ran mine through the console as well and it definitely cleans up the bottom of the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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yellowporky
post Sep 4 2011, 07:04 PM
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This is going to be a street car and maybe occasional autocross. We will run it on the track to test it out but not to compete.
All of the coolant lines were beaded in place using an earls ez-beader.
The power steering was straight forward (if there is such a thing) using the pump that came on the engine and the rack that was included with the front suspension. We used a 993 reservoir that you can see mounted in the engine compartment behind driver.
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rohar
post Sep 4 2011, 07:14 PM
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QUOTE(okieflyr @ Sep 4 2011, 05:20 PM) *

That is really cool! Is this going to be a street car? or track only? I am interested to see how you did the pwr brake setup. I couldn't see any bead flair on your coolant tubes. I ran mine through the console as well and it definitely cleans up the bottom of the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


That's the next decision on mine. How's the heat coming from the console? I've got some terrible ideas for insulation if you notice it at all.
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okieflyr
post Sep 4 2011, 07:47 PM
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Chris, where did you mount and link the vac booster for the brake system? Did you eliminate the ABS? I used the Earls bead tool as well when I had the steel lines. I've since gone to silicone coolant lines that are insulated inside the console.

Rohar, I do get a little bit of heat wafting. I don't think it is so much from the lines directly, as much as the air and vaccum dynamics pulling around the less than perfect body sealing. Engine heat is playing a role as well. The slight amount I do get is welcome on cool mornings and evenings with the top off. It's not much fun in the sun when it is 85* plus. Overall the heater core works well to clear the fog on the windshield on rainy days, and comfort in the winter.
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yellowporky
post Sep 4 2011, 07:54 PM
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The booster is included with the 993 front suspension.
Yes we eliminated the abs.
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rohar
post Sep 4 2011, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(okieflyr @ Sep 4 2011, 06:47 PM) *

Chris, where did you mount and link the vac booster for the brake system? Did you eliminate the ABS? I used the Earls bead tool as well when I had the steel lines. I've since gone to silicone coolant lines that are insulated inside the console.

Rohar, I do get a little bit of heat wafting. I don't think it is so much from the lines directly, as much as the air and vaccum dynamics pulling around the less than perfect body sealing. Engine heat is playing a role as well. The slight amount I do get is welcome on cool mornings and evenings with the top off. It's not much fun in the sun when it is 85* plus. Overall the heater core works well to clear the fog on the windshield on rainy days, and comfort in the winter.


Not to threadjack, but it seems we're all in the same boat. I'm pretty much convinced my cooling is going down the tunnel. I'll take the top off it and push some steel tubes right through the middle.

I'm a little concerned about the heat in the cabin, so I intend to cover it with insulated pieces made of pearlite and silicone. Pearlite is an awesome refractory an light as hell. I'll add just enough silicone to keep it together. All the heat should exit under the car.
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Mike Bellis
post Sep 4 2011, 08:13 PM
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You could do a simple ghetto insulation. Get some rolls of heavy paper and Aluminum foil. then wrap several alternating layers; Aluminum, paper, Aluminum, paper... Wrap it tight and put 6-7 layers on it. Works very well. I would also recommend Aluminum electrical conduit for coolant tubes (available at electrical wholesale house) It will conduct less heat into the cabin than steel or copper.
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rohar
post Sep 4 2011, 08:24 PM
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Meh, too hard and expensive. 1 bag of pearlite, $3 at the local garden shop. A tube of silicone, $8 at ACE. They're overly helpfull, when I walk in the door an "associate" asks me if he can help, I say yeah go get me a tube of pure silicon caulk an they do. I just realized they carry pearlite too. Guess I don't have to pull anything off the shelves. Mix until sticky and form. $11 for a lightweight thermal barrier seems like a good choice.
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yellowporky
post Sep 5 2011, 04:28 PM
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Here is a photo of the gauges that north hollywood speedo did 10 years ago and then were set on the shelf until 6 months ago when they had to redo the speedo again for the electronic speedo and then the tac to add the boost gauge. The temp had to be changed to water from oil and also the oil tank level was changed to a voltage gauge.
This should be the final configuration.
The interior was done in tan leather and wool carpet about 10 years ago. Maybe will finally be installed this year.
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roadster fan
post Sep 5 2011, 04:44 PM
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Wow! Cant wait to see it in person. That is gonna be a fun ride!

Jim
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rohar
post Sep 5 2011, 05:30 PM
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Great, now it's going to be pretty too. There's no point in competing against this one. Good on ya!
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rohar
post Sep 5 2011, 05:32 PM
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Oh, and the redline on your tach seems a bit low and your speedo doesn't go high enough (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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yellowporky
post Sep 5 2011, 05:39 PM
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We realized the deficiencies in the gauges also but we are planning to have an on board computer to help track the actual speeds when being tested on the track. These gauges are for street driving.
We are planning a matte titanium paint job to keep things subtle.
I am hoping that the 930 flares will go on soon.
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yellowporky
post Sep 5 2011, 06:09 PM
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I found the original wheelbase dimension on Pelican Parts
Wheelbase= 96 1/2"
New Wheelbase= 97 3/4"


One interesting thing that we notice when hooking up the steering column was that it was off center and pointing towards the center of the car. So with the 993 steering rack having the input on the driver side we were able to move the steerng column to the center of the driver seet and have it pointing strait forward.
So many things to remember to post.
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