 Wheel house repair? |
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| mzalanka |
 Sep 11 2011, 11:06 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 116 Joined: 11-July 11 From: Portland, OR Member No.: 13,300 Region Association: None  |
Wondering which wheel house parts I should purchase to do my repair. AAs catalog looks like it has both panels that make up the inner wheel house (quoted, "pieces overlap for extra strength"). Restoration Design's website makes it sound like their part welds to to existing engine bay panel. Anyone have any experience with replacing these parts?
Also, should the suspension console be removed to do the repair, or can it stay on? Thanks.   |
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| jimkelly |
Sep 12 2011, 05:08 AM
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#2
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Delaware USA Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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| draganc |
Sep 12 2011, 05:55 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 2-November 09 From: central new jersey Member No.: 11,000 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(jimkelly @ Sep 12 2011, 03:08 AM)  (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) and welcome to the madness :-) check out: http://www.restoration-design.com/installation_ss346.htm# I think you will need at least # 330, 331, 301R and 346R. how is the engine bay tray and the battery tray? use the search function for "hell hole" - that's what you have. dragan ps: since you have a rather large hole just by the suspension console and the rest looks very bad, I would guess that you will have to make a jig for it and remove the console while fixing the rest. |
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| mzalanka |
Sep 12 2011, 10:03 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 116 Joined: 11-July 11 From: Portland, OR Member No.: 13,300 Region Association: None |
The hell hole is in surprisingly decent shape, compared with the lower wheel house. After I do some wire-brushing, I'll know where I'm at. I'll definitely need to do some patching, but nothing as major as what's below. I'm planning to open the pass side long (with that hole, it's open already), but it's nowhere near as bad as the wheel house.
  Thanks for the tips on parts. I was planning on a long stiffener, either from RD or Brad Mayeur. I'll probably add one to the driver's side as well, although that side looks pretty rust-free. I'm not planning, at this point, to open the longs on that side. Michelko's thread is amazing. If I can do half as good a job as him, I'll be happy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So, start with the inner longs, and work from there? |
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| Jeffs9146 |
Sep 12 2011, 11:12 AM
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#5
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
I have a #330 new that I ended up not using on my restoration if you wan't to save a little bit of money!
$45 plus shipping from 94505! Attached thumbnail(s) 
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| r_towle |
Sep 12 2011, 11:21 AM
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#6
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States 
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QUOTE(mzalanka @ Sep 12 2011, 12:03 PM) The hell hole is in surprisingly decent shape, compared with the lower wheel house. After I do some wire-brushing, I'll know where I'm at. I'll definitely need to do some patching, but nothing as major as what's below. I'm planning to open the pass side long (with that hole, it's open already), but it's nowhere near as bad as the wheel house. Thanks for the tips on parts. I was planning on a long stiffener, either from RD or Brad Mayeur. I'll probably add one to the driver's side as well, although that side looks pretty rust-free. I'm not planning, at this point, to open the longs on that side. Michelko's thread is amazing. If I can do half as good a job as him, I'll be happy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) So, start with the inner longs, and work from there? That top picture shows that the upper long is wrong and covered up in tar or undercoating. For one thing, there is a drain hole that is missing... I keep seeing it fixed like that.... People, give the water a place to go....geez Rich |
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| carr914 |
Sep 12 2011, 11:30 AM
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#7
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Racer from Birth Group: Members Posts: 118,648 Joined: 2-February 04 From: Tampa,FL Member No.: 1,623 Region Association: South East States  |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
When I did mine, I think AA you had to buy both sides. RD just Sold me what I needed. I also added the Clamshell & Engman kit |
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| draganc |
Sep 12 2011, 06:51 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 2-November 09 From: central new jersey Member No.: 11,000 Region Association: North East States |
QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Sep 12 2011, 09:12 AM) I have a #330 new that I ended up not using on my restoration if you wan't to save a little bit of money! $45 plus shipping from 94505! That's a good deal! Before you cut any metal make shure you get some new parts before! btw, i hope you have a MIG and know how to weld. that's what you gonna be doing for some time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) have fun! |
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| draganc |
Sep 12 2011, 07:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 725 Joined: 2-November 09 From: central new jersey Member No.: 11,000 Region Association: North East States |
PS: Here a pic of my hell hole, which i consider not too bad.
Attached thumbnail(s) 
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