Joes 2056 build thread, Its Driving again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Options

[jsayre914]

Great progress Yesterday, NO pics

Picked up the engine, got it into the garage. Started to dress the engine with the D-jet. Got all the vacume hosees on, fuel lines (ran out of high pressure hose (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) got the alternator hooked up, runners, intake, dual pressure sender.

Had a question on the sender. It is a metal hose that sticks up and the end of the hose has a small coupler then the sender threads to that. The question is, why is there almost 1/4 inch gap when the sender is threaded all the way till it is tight. Is that normal? I used a tiny amount od red gasket maker on the thread. is that good?

next question

I am missing the decel valve, and I remember that it is not necessary. What is the correct way to bypass this, connect the two larger vacume hoses togeather and plug the smaller hose that come off the intake?

next question

I can find the firing order but i forget if the distributor spins clockwise or counterclockwise (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) I dont want to get the plug wires wrong

Next question

What gauge wires to run for the oil pressure sender to the gauge and same thing from the fuel pressure sender to the gauge up front?

last question

Do I use a sealent when putting the sensor on the bung from the tail pipe, if so what type. This is for the oxygen sensor

More questions to come. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I am very very close


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

No decel? Just plug all the ports on the plenum that you don't use.

clockwise. 1-4-3-2

Edited: cause I'm a dumbass sometimes

[Valy]

Had a question on the sender. It is a metal hose that sticks up and the end of the hose has a small coupler then the sender threads to that. The question is, why is there almost 1/4 inch gap when the sender is threaded all the way till it is tight. Is that normal? I used a tiny amount od red gasket maker on the thread. is that good?

Is that the oil pressure sender? Is it original or are you trying to fit a non metric thread into a metric thread?

[jsayre914]

Had a question on the sender. It is a metal hose that sticks up and the end of the hose has a small coupler then the sender threads to that. The question is, why is there almost 1/4 inch gap when the sender is threaded all the way till it is tight. Is that normal? I used a tiny amount od red gasket maker on the thread. is that good?

Is that the oil pressure sender? Is it original or are you trying to fit a non metric thread into a metric thread?

Its the dual sender, not original. I bought the kit wich relocates the sender away from the distributor so i can use the idiot light and the gauge

[rwilner]

Great progress Yesterday, NO pics

Picked up the engine, got it into the garage. Started to dress the engine with the D-jet. Got all the vacume hosees on, fuel lines (ran out of high pressure hose (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ) got the alternator hooked up, runners, intake, dual pressure sender.

Had a question on the sender. It is a metal hose that sticks up and the end of the hose has a small coupler then the sender threads to that. The question is, why is there almost 1/4 inch gap when the sender is threaded all the way till it is tight. Is that normal? I used a tiny amount od red gasket maker on the thread. is that good?

This is what mine looks like, I think the gasket sealer is OK but wasn't needed as these are NPT tapered threads that should be self-sealing.

What gauge wires to run for the oil pressure sender to the gauge and same thing from the fuel pressure sender to the gauge up front?

I used 18 gauge hook up wire. There's no current going through these wires so you could probably use 22 gauge with no problems.

last question

Do I use a sealent when putting the sensor on the bung from the tail pipe, if so what type. This is for the oxygen sensor

No sealant necessary -- there should be a crush washer on the O2 sensor (just like your spark plugs) -- but I would put a dab of antiseize on the O2 sensor threads (again, just like your spark plugs).

[jsayre914]

got it!

Thanks for the replys.


Next question:

Initial startup is confusing to me. I put the break in oil in. Pull the plugs and disconnect the coil. Crank the engine till i get pressure. Then put the plugs back hook up the coil and start the car up from the cockpit for 2500 rpm for 20min.

No problem

Except

How do i check for oil leaks when i am sitting in the car holding the gas. AND How do I setup the initial timing while doing all of this.

Should the timing be set right away??

Seems like a lot to do for 1 guy, almost impossible

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[bohalrantipol]

Get a 2nd guy? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

got it!

Thanks for the replys.


Next question:

Initial startup is confusing to me. I put the break in oil in. Pull the plugs and disconnect the coil. Crank the engine till i get pressure. Then put the plugs back hook up the coil and start the car up from the cockpit for 2500 rpm for 20min.

No problem

Except

How do i check for oil leaks when i am sitting in the car holding the gas. AND How do I setup the initial timing while doing all of this.

Should the timing be set right away??

Seems like a lot to do for 1 guy, almost impossible

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[jsayre914]

Get a 2nd guy? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

So it cannot be done with 1 guy?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Start the car with the deck lid open. Get out and walk to the engine bay.
Hold open the throttle while looking at the tach through the rear window to ~2500 rmp. clamp it just strong enough to keep it from slipping with some vise-grips or a C-clamp.

Zach

[Black22]

I'm doing this in the next week or so too. What about the timing issue? I was wondering that too Joseph.

[VaccaRabite]

for timing, hold timing at 3500 rpm from the engine bay (you will get to know when the rpm is right by the sound of the engine) and shoot your timing light down the hole. Adjust timing, and do it again. Faster with 2 people, but most of the time I have done it its just been me.

Zach

[jsayre914]

for timing, hold timing at 3500 rpm from the engine bay (you will get to know when the rpm is right by the sound of the engine) and shoot your timing light down the hole. Adjust timing, and do it again. Faster with 2 people, but most of the time I have done it its just been me.

Zach

I was told to keep the rpm at 2500 but the timing on my engine is 3500, is it O.K. to hold the engine at 3500 for a few min? And I was thinking, the clamp idea is a cool idea, but, when I adjust the position of the distributor as I remember it affects idle pretty good.


I am gonna try it, but Id love to hear some more of these tricks.

Oh yeah, after you start the car, you would have to let go of the throttle to jump out and grab the cable in the engine bay. Is it O.K. to idle for that min also, right after initial startup?

I know i am begining to get a little anal (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)



Thank you

[VaccaRabite]

Once you have done the 20 minute cam break in, you should be fine. Just make sure break the cam in first.

Zach

[ChrisFoley]

Take a minute to set the timing approximately. You don't need it to be right on - only close.
That will also give you an opportunity to check for big leaks.
Then move right on to the cam break-in phase.

[jsayre914]

Few Pics for Ya.

The engine is ready to go back in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
I have been busy doing other projects on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) the house. so no start yet. Tommorow is a new day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Bleyseng]

Looks nice! Start it up!

[jsayre914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

First Drive !!!!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
WWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE


I have adjusted the timing valves etc. Car runs very smooth at idle. There is some bucking at high speeds, I forget what causes that. TPS? its a brand new board. And I noticed that I cant keep idle after engine is hot, keeps stalling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I was gonna adjust the bypass screw, but why does it idle perfect when cold? I did try the ecu knob fully in both direction with no change.



I love this engine, it has power in every gear, thats insane (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

[FourBlades]

Congratulations on the first drive! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

That is a great looking engine, I am sure folks here will help you get your idle under control.

I have been following this build since you started.

John

[rwilner]

Car runs very smooth at idle.

[...]

And I noticed that I cant keep idle after engine is hot, keeps stalling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

I was gonna adjust the bypass screw, but why does it idle perfect when cold? I did try the ecu knob fully in both direction with no change.

What's the idle rpm when cold?

This could be a few things.

It could be your idle adjustment screw. Your idle could be good when cold because the AAR is open...when it closes, the screw could be so tight that there's not enough air getting in.

Another cause could be your CHT. You have a 73 2.0L which has several one-year-only DJet parts. Do you have the correct -017 CHT with the spacer and resistor? The correct ECU? The correct -037 MPS?

If it runs good cold and not right warm, look at the temperature-dependent parts.

I'm sure others with more experience will chime in...might want to start a separate tweaking / tuning thread.

[saigon71]

Joe:

Congrats on your build...just in time for Hershey!

I look forward to hearing this beast run.

Catch you Saturday,

Bob