Inner long Chassis Stiff Kit install, the complete photo documentary Options

[Engman]

Wow - great pics on the install and testing! The one I am working on is gonna take awhile.

On the welding of the edges - it depends upon the quality of the metal you are welding to. If the floorpans and top and front areas are solid I recommend a 1/2" weld every 3-4". Watch the ones on the top to make sure your door gasket will still fit correctly.

Trekkor - great job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

M

[Qarl]

I don't know if full beads around the edges would do anything but add time...and weight!

I was concerned more in the event that water got in your car, that water would run in between the panels causing rust... unless it were all sealed shut with welds!

[Trekkor]

You could use silicone.

I'm going to do that, thanks.

KT

[IronHillRestorations]

Are these pieces made of coated steel?

My personal/professional preference is 3M Weld through primer on the car steel and "galvanealed" steel. I don't know if galvaneal is the trade name or what, but it's a non-rusting coating that can be welded through with minimal fumes. This would help prevent any future corrosion, even if it got wet. I also use the SEM two part catalyzed seam sealer, which is expensive but very good. When you think about it, what's another $28 for seam sealer, after you've spent hours doing this sort of work?

The other thing to consider is the fact that most of these cars will not see the exposure that they did, say with the 2nd or 3rd owner, ie as a daily driver or whatever.

What about an L at the bottom to tie it to the pan a little easier? Just my .02. I made some very similar pieces about a year and a half ago to put on a car that needed some structural help, but I made them so it turned inboard 90 at the bottom, to weld to the pan. This looks like a great kit. (howbout a thumbs up smilie?)

PK (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)

[Engman]

These have a zinc phosphate coating and then are primered with a weldable primer. I am trying to stay away from galvanized steel. Welding galvanized is just plain nasty. I always have to drink a glass of milk after I do much of it. (helps get rid o the taste).The fumes generated by welding galvanized are just horrible for you, steel is bad enough.

The 'L' at the bottom has been talked about. Most people do not relize that the front area goes has a slight incline follwed by a flat area followed by a \ to another flat area. It may be better to make a piece just for this.


M

[seanery]

Hey Mark, what about the ecoating, does it need to be removed before welding?

[Engman]

No ecoat on these puppies. I do run it through the cleaning system and zinc phospate them. Then a weldable primer coat. You can weld the ecoat - it will weld after you get a ground to it, it is just not for this product.

M

[seanery]

I was referring to the other stuff-rear sway bar mounts in particular.

[Engman]

Rear sways - ground to the car (make sure battery and ECU are disconnected) and just wire wheel or gring the edges were you want to weld. You really only need one to start, the others will burn thru after you start to weld. Be sure to touch up with some paint after you are done welding and it has cooled.

M

[Brad Roberts]

Great job Trekkor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif) Sorry I didnt have time for a writeup. I highly recommend this setup for V8 cars and 6 conversion cars or anyone who runs a track car. Tying these pieces together is more important that slapping on the exterior kits. The chassis flexes most directly below the windshield hoop. The other kits out there weld onto a COVER for the frame rail. This kit actually attaches TO the frame rail.

Thanks Mark for another quality product. Hopefully the 914 community will reward you with some sales.


B

[soloracer]

If one is going to install a roll cage would this kit be necessary? Or is it redundant at that point?

[Brad Roberts]

redundant at that point...

This is for people who *might* install a hoop with a petty bar.

The whole idea is to hide it beneath carpet.


B

[Engman]

A big thank you to Brad and Trekkor! This is a 914 club Exclusiveitem and will be so for some time. I could not have made this without Brads input. These are generation 4 parts - this means there were 3 different protos run that did not pass muster. Now if we could only get that ecomm thing going......... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Seriously Brad had a LOT of input on these. This fall we hopefully will meet again to discuss some 'other' things that we can do.

Brad - if you need these - you have my number.


M

[Brad Roberts]

Sooner or later I will build myself a AutoX/track car and come calling. The ecomm is really up in the air right now while I decide what I'm going to do with life.



B

[Randal]

Great Work Mr. T.

Now we know why your car was going so fast on Saturday!

Hope to see you on Sunday.

[maf914]

KT, Thanks for the great photos and description. That looks like it worked out really well.

Mark, Very nice product! Looks like another "gotta have" item.

[J P Stein]

Sooner or later I will build myself a AutoX/track car and come calling.

You gonna come calling on Portland?
I'll try to be ready:D

[matrixops]

Great presentation, very well done.

Now, it appears that this modification is more for a track/autox car, but would this also be suitable for a daily driver/mild autox with weak longs? I am asking in the even that I get ahold of a 914 with questionable longs.

Once again, great work.

M O

[Eric_Shea]

Fuch... something else I need to buy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Great job Trekkor (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

This kit is for anyone wanting some more strength in a 30 year old tub. You will notice a difference the first time you pull out of your driveway. The factory didnt do a real good job of tying the frame rails together at the firewall... this helps BIG time.


B