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> How the hell do you get the top seals..., ...on the damn top??? OUCH!
Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 12:55 PM
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"I've got blisters on my fingers"

OK, so there's got to be an easier way to geth these damn top seals on (side seals). One is on and it was a bitch. I soaked the other one in soapy water and lathered up the track as well. Seemed to have the opposite effect... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

WTF over?

Anybody BTDT. Any advice for Mr. Neanderfu@*?
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Trekkor
post Jul 20 2004, 01:12 PM
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Just did that.

I tried the soap too, not enough.

I just put one side of the rubber in the track, then CAREFULLY use a slotted screwdriver or even a popsicle stick to push the other lip into the track.

Be patient, it will only take a few minutes per side.
After it's in, force it as far forward as you can using a cloth to grip the seal.

By moving it forward, the top will seat well on the rear surface. You want both diagonal edges to compress together.

KT
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andys
post Jul 20 2004, 02:14 PM
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Though I'm yet to do this particular replacement, for rubber parts I have always used KY jelly with great results........on rubber parts, that is. Ok, got ahead and jump on this one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)

Andy
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SirAndy
post Jul 20 2004, 02:22 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Jul 20 2004, 01:14 PM)
Ok, go ahead and jump on this one!


here's what you need:
QUOTE
- KY jelly
- rubber parts
- a popsicle stick
- a lip
- my fingers
- a bitch
- lather


then:
QUOTE
CAREFULLY, use, push, grip, into, the rear, moving it forward
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aircooledboy
post Jul 20 2004, 02:28 PM
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Spray silicone and a nylon stick or paddle if you can get one. You can get the nylon sticks from an auto glass shop, and they are pretty handy for lots of jobs like this. They are safer than a screw driver because they are much less likely to tear the seal or slip and scratch your paint, and work better than a wooden stick because you can sharpen them to a thinner edge without losing strength. Spray silicone is dramatically better at lubing up rubber than soapy water.

Use the "one side at a time" method Trekkor describes. Spray the silicone onto the edge you will be pushing into the track with the nylon/plastic stick, and try to keep it only on the edge you will be pushing into the grove or the little bastards get very slippery. A light spray on the metal channel helps too(makes a mess on your paint, but comes off with soapy water). Start the second edge at one end or the other, and then just work down the line from that point to the other end. A little patience and it goes pretty easy. Once you get the feel for it, I can often get the stick at the right angle to slide it from one end to the other, "zipping" one in literally in less than a minute.

Trying to slide it in from one end like I think you did the first one is really a bear, and damn near impossible. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 02:38 PM
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While waiting for all you fine Gentleman and perverted Fuchs to reply I found my way through the same method that Mr. Trekkor describes. Much easier than pulling them in. I put the outside lip on first and used a screwdriver to pop the inside. It went in about 1/4" at a time (Andy... 1/4" at a time would give you about 16 good thrusts...) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Sick bastards... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) ya.

Thanks all,
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andys
post Jul 20 2004, 02:50 PM
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Chris,

If it is truely silicone, I would advise against using it. Slick, for sure, but it will contaminate any surface it comes in contact with, and will attract dirt as you can never really get it all off. If you ever want to repaint, forget it! The advantage with using the KY, is that it's water soluble........besides, imagine reaching for a spray can at the moment........aw forget it!

Andy
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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 02:57 PM
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Forgot to mention:

Sammy Seal is on. Rocks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Too much (IMG:style_emoticons/default/type.gif) and not enough (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

Back to the garage...
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aircooledboy
post Jul 20 2004, 03:56 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Jul 20 2004, 02:50 PM)
Chris,

If it is truely silicone, I would advise against using it. Slick, for sure, but it will contaminate any surface it comes in contact with, and will attract dirt as you can never really get it all off.

Used it as the only method hundreds of times as a mobile auto glass installer in body shops for 3 years. Never an issue or a problem. Soap and water gets it off almost any surface completely, and enamel reducer will get it off a stuborn surface, including one about to be painted, without fail.
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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 04:01 PM
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"any" surface? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)
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watsonrx13
post Jul 20 2004, 04:43 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

Must have PICTURES... of the installed seal not the use of KY jelly, etal....
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SirAndy
post Jul 20 2004, 05:30 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Jul 20 2004, 03:01 PM)
"any" surface? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

and who's the "sick bastard" now, huh?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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Jeffs9146
post Jul 20 2004, 05:32 PM
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I rub a small amount of liquid soap in the track and on the rubber and moisten my hands with water.

Then I align the rubber into the track at the top and push it down to get it started.

Then I take a pair of vice grips and clamp onto the bottom and push down on the vice grips.

Sides in smoother than snot!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

Jeff
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Trekkor
post Jul 20 2004, 05:49 PM
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here.
Make sure the trailing edge is as far foward to allow proper seating of the top.

KT Wills


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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 06:07 PM
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QUOTE
and who's the "sick bastard" now, huh?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Miles? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 06:12 PM
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Oh... almost forgot!

Jeff,

You're a Liar, Fabricator, Falsifier, Perjurer, Prevaricator, Storyteller and a Fibber (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Slides in smoother than snot... MY ASS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Don't bogart that joint... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif)
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Gint
post Jul 20 2004, 06:56 PM
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QUOTE
Prevaricator


I gotta look that up...


prevaricator

\Pre*var"i*ca`tor\, n. [L. praevaricator: cf. F. pr['e]varicateur.] 1. One who prevaricates.

2. (Roman Law) A sham dealer; one who colludes with a defendant in a sham prosecution.

3. One who betrays or abuses a trust. --Prynne.




prevaricator

n : a person who has lied or who lies repeatedly [syn: liar] [ant: square shooter]



pre·var·i·cate
intr.v. pre·var·i·cat·ed, pre·var·i·cat·ing, pre·var·i·cates

To stray from or evade the truth; equivocate. See Synonyms at lie2.


You learn something new every day around here.
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Eric_Shea
post Jul 20 2004, 08:13 PM
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Glad I could help. Just call me Mr. Pedagogue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jul 20 2004, 08:21 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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go to walgreens, riteaid, longs,.. and get a bottle of this. works great for widow squeegees too.

kevin


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Allan
post Jul 20 2004, 10:00 PM
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I used that stuff about 25 years ago to stop my 1973 Datsun pick-up radiator from leaking. It works for seals too? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)
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