Removing panels via spot welds, Question about re-use Options

[Gint]

I got one of these:


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/MVC-706F.JPG)


And I did some of this:


(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/MVC-703F.JPG)
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/MVC-704F.JPG)


I know I went too deep on some of those holes. Getting used to using a new tool, you know how it goes. But, this is a 3/8, and I'll probably get a 1/4. These holes are awfully large. How do you got about filling that large void on relatively thin sheet metal when you re-use this part?

[majkos]

Looks pretty slick to me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)
Where did you find the "Hole-saw"? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Those holes are a bit large but, in general, you would "rosette" weld those pieces on to your destination tub. If done at the proper voltage and speed the rosette weld can emulate the original spot welds.

[Gint]

Thanks Eric. Emulating the spot welds isn't as much a concern as warping sheet metal trying to fill such a large hole. I'll have to see if Tool Zone (that's for you Kev) is open tomorrow and pick up a smaller unit. It did work amazingly well. Pretty quick and easy. I just need to learn not to go so far with it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

One more fun fact... the piece being "removed" would generally be the one getting the holes and the piece you would want to keep would be on the bottom.

Sometimes that's not possible (depending on the location of the weld path) and the rosette weld thing is the only way to go.

Let's say you had a large quarter panel cut off anotehr car. You would use your spot weld cutter/drill from the "backside" and pick the front portion off. The tool is designed to cut around the weld leaving the weld in tact. Then to prep the panel you would grind the remaining welds down and either spot weld as the factory did (not too many people use this option because the tub was put together in a certain sequence with numerous lenth spot arms) or MIG weld (most common).

Again, when using a MIG and you want to replicate/duplicate spot welds you would use a rosette pattern.

[Gint]

Gotcha. Thanks.

[McMark]

I use a 1/4" drill bit. Take a little getting used to being able to find the actual spot weld and making sure to not go too deep, but makes for really nice small holes to fill. I've tried all the "spot weld" drill bits and wasn't very impressed. I can get pieces off without making too much damage in the bottom layer.

[Gint]

Thanks Mark. This bit actually works really well. If I can get the 1/4 inch unit they refer to on the back of the package, I'll give it a try.

[Slowpoke]

Those spot weld cutters have a stop you can adjust. Should be a screw in the shaft of it. Just turn it to adjust the stop, this will prevent going too deep and messing up what you are trying to keep. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[TimT]

Those holes are a bit large but, in general, you would "rosette" weld those pieces on to your destination tub.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) werd

[brant]

gint,

I was ordering mine from eastwood...

where is tool king?
how much?

tia
brant

[TimT]

Brant go to your local autobody supply house, they should have the spotweld remover

[Allan]

You Can Do It (IMG:style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif) I myself am afraid to clean my windows. But I always hope that things turn out right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[Gint]

where is tool king?  how much?

Not Tool King, but Tool Zone. 104th and Melody in the Albertsons' s shopping center. It was 9 or 10 bucks.

[yellowFV]

Eastwood Industries 800-345-1178 sells a version of the spotweld drill it's 3/16" I believe which is the standard (american at least) auto industry spotwelds... Eastwood caters to the restoration enthusiast.

They also sell a neat little attachment you clip to an arc welder out-put that makes welds that are basically 3/16" spot welds..

it's like a gun type tool with aluminum spacer that you rest against the panel right over the place to be spot welded. by squeezing the trigger progressively you are bringing the copper electrode down to the work. At the proper height above the work the electrode strikes an arc and makes a little circular spot of weld... by releasing the trigger back you pull the copper electrode away from the panel breaking the arc.

Eastwood says they work pretty well and they come with an assortment of spacers so you can get the electrode braced steadily above flat panels, on inside corners, etc.

I picked one up last week but have not tried it yet... if anyone is interested I can pull it out tomorrow and try a few welds on some scrap panel and post photos.

rob wellner