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> Muellers VR6 swap project, running thread of a non-running motor :)
Mueller
post Nov 22 2004, 10:43 PM
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drivers side:


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Mueller
post Nov 22 2004, 10:44 PM
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ugly cut...luckly I can weld and paint once I figure out a more elegant solution for mounting the engine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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Mueller
post Nov 22 2004, 10:45 PM
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last picture for the night....this shows how much room in front of the crank balancer and the chassis


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Chris914n6
post Nov 22 2004, 10:49 PM
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Deja-vu (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I hit the firewall in about 3/4" for the timing belt cover clearance. Not a problem, but I also knew I wasn't going to use the rear pad.

I have the RH tranny blocks. Actually 4, stacked 2 high @ 1.5". Hole spacing is 1.25" FORWARD. Had to use 2 to get the intake under the targa top. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Wish I had made a new manifold back then... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif)

You'll only need 1/2" of clearance for engine movement if you use sport mounts.

My oil pan hangs ~1" below floorpan. Could be considered an issue if I didn't have a 2" o.d. tough rubber rad hose that crossed in front of it. Again, wouldn't be a problem (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) if I had made a new intake (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


Keep up the progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Chris
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Mueller
post Nov 22 2004, 10:54 PM
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thanks Chris, you just put a big smile on my face knowing that you too had to get "creative", hahahaha

any issues with the axles running the transmission forward?
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Chris914n6
post Nov 22 2004, 11:06 PM
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Axles run up, axles run down, why would a 'forward' angle be different?

I did have an issue with the pass outer CV bolts coming loose and out... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
Them bolts pop LOUD.

Oh Yah! I got creative. Like my motor mount ties into where the Maxima CV shaft support bracket bolted to the engine. Felt I need 3 point for mount stability in relationship to the chassis mounts.
The N6 gets it's 2.5 year physical over holiday break. We'll see if I have any Garage Floor Engineering side effects.

Chris
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Mueller
post Nov 22 2004, 11:49 PM
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QUOTE(KurtG @ Nov 22 2004, 10:38 PM)
QUOTE(Mueller @ Nov 22 2004, 08:44 PM)
ugly cut...luckly I can weld and paint once I figure out a more elegant solution for mounting the engine  :D

That actually doesn't look too bad but it's hard to get the full perspective with those close up shots.

i'm using my cell phone to take the pictures (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) not the best, but it works for now.....
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rick 918-S
post Nov 23 2004, 12:56 AM
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Hey nice rack! -Celette
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Mike, I have solid mounts front and rear. My motor doesn't move! The 928 motor is so smooth I don't need the vibration dampening that rubber mount provide. When I stab the gas the front lifts and the rear squats. The car goes straight and flat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (My old 427 Chevelle used to pick up the left front wheel in kind of a tip over thing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) ) Don't worry about the strength of the transaxle case. Just build strong mounts.

The axles will be fine. My motor is moved 1.5" back.

In my list of build objectives I absolutely insisted on taga storage as intended. I would lower the motor and tranaxle to clear the lid and targa if I were you. Put the targa in the trunk and fit the motor while it's in there.

BTW: looks like lots of room for the cables now. How about shift rod clearance? I used a tail shift linkage with a side shift end grafted on. This allowed the rod to move a couple more inches to the left. Even after cutting the oil pan I needed the added clearance.
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