Anatomy of a paint job Options

[scotty b]

Over the yhears there has been alot of threads about how much to expect for pint jobs. I have always chimed in that it all depends on what you want in to end. Since starting my own shop, this 930 was the first over restored- " rust free " job I have done. The other nicer jobs all had a fair amount of rust repair, custom work, or are still not finished. I thought this would be a good opportunuiy to show what your money gets. While I say this car was rust free, you weill se some pics where I had some small patch work to do. These pics also illustrate a rust area on 911's that most of the time can't be seen without removing the fenders.

This car came to me as a 3 owner car, that has spent most of its life garaged. The current owner stripped 95% of the paint himself, pulled all of the glass out, and removed the bumpers, the rest was up to me.

[scotty b]

The first job was to remove the remaning panels, diagnose any rust or damged areas and d/a/ the whole car to good clean metal. Int he first pic you can see where I have sanded vs. the strip job the owner had done. the rusty spots are where the fenders meet up to the cowel. This is a problem area due to the rain water being channeld directly to that spot, and after a few years the factory seam seler cracks open on the top side. On the insides of the fenders, there is a VERY heavy layer of undercoating that typically does NOT break loose. Thus preventing the trapped water from escaping

[URY914]

What year?

[scotty b]

Once the whole car has been sanded down, and rust spots sand blasted clean it gets a coat of etch primer and a coat of sealer. I do this BEFORE fixing the two rusty spots for a couple of reasons. I want the metal coated before it has time to flash rust, and these spots are small enough that the repairs won;t affect the rest of the car

[swood]

I'm going to like this thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[scotty b]

Everthing gets guide coated and blocked. Imperfections get bumped and mudded, areas that get broken through to bare metal get re-etched and sealed. then the whole car gets a couple coats of high build primer, followed by another guide coat for the next blocking operation

[scotty b]

Now that the car has a couple good coats of primer I went back and repaired the rust spots at the fnders, and fixed the cracks in the bottoms of the fenders

[scotty b]

After giving things a couple weeks to get nice and setup, I then went back and hard blocked the car for the second time, this time with a finer grit. It is at this point that hte " OVER-restoring " begins. There are spots on all cars that from the factory are less than perfect. On 911's the top edge of the hood has a significant dip that I smoothed out, the back of the rear 1/4 windows has a dip, and all four corners of the roof where it is joined are ripply. In addition, the radius from the flares to the fender bodies are not quite perfect so they get a little work too. FYI On the early 930's like this one, the flares are welded on, not stamped as part of the fender.

[Dr Evil]

Thats not a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Maybe you should do a thread on a 914? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[scotty b]

Next comes ANOTHER coat of primer and guide coat. All these subsequent coats of primer are more to fill in scratches from the sanding and to isolate the filler spots. IOn nicer jobs like this I let the car sit for a minimun of 4 weeks after each coat of primer to let it fully cure. The actual build thickness is not that great in the end because the majority of the primer ends up getting sanded off up to this point

[scotty b]

Thats not a 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Maybe you should do a thread on a 914? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

b-low me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[scotty b]

Prior to starting the wetsanding, I flip over the doors, hood and engine lidprep and tape them off, and shoot the color and clear. They will then sit for several weeks while both the primer on the outside, and the color on the inside setup. In the mantime, I sanded the insides and reblacked them. My camera was f-ed so I dodn;t get pics of the blacking.

[scotty b]

whuile all that stuff sits, the lower trim panels all get prepped and coated with factory looking rock guard, then immediately get primed and painted out.

[scotty b]

then after a whole lot of wet sanding we get to this point (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[MDG]

Excellent!

[Dr Evil]

You need to show this to Plasket's wife (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) She would force him to get his car done, then.

[scotty b]

After thjis I blacked out ALL of the trim and door handles, and window frames. those pics are trapped on my camera that finally took a dump last week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I'm going to see if I can get them off onelast time. My card is literally glued into the camera from when some laquer thinner splashed on it. IT will onyl power up for a minnute or two now, so I may have enough time to get them off.

In the meantime I borrowed my parents camera to get the last of the pics this week.

And finally after a little wet sand and buffing job

[watsonrx13]

Scotty thanks for showing us the complete process. How long did it take from the time you received the stipped car until the last photo?

--- Rob

[scotty b]

So long story short, time and materials, this is what 12,000.00 will get you. I don;t have my time log right here, but the materials were around 2000.00. the rest is actual labor to get to this point.

Keep in mind this is near top of the line paint job. It could have been done even further, but at this point it is more than the owner wanted. I have done some work on a 356 speedster he has, and he told me he didn't want the 930 as nice as the 356 which IMO is about a 100% perfect. I'd say his 930 is about 90% there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[MDG]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Money shot. Freakin' amazing!

Show off.