Floor pan rust inside! Found some in my LE, Pull your seat out & check yours Options

[ewdysar]

Hey I just looked under my driver seat... is this a problem? (it looked a lot better with the factory tar in place)

[SirAndy]

Hey I just looked under my driver seat... is this a problem? (it looked a lot better with the factory tar in place)

That looks pretty bad ...

Also check the edge where the floor meets the longs and rear firewall. See if you can poke through.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[ewdysar]

Hey I just looked under my driver seat... is this a problem? (it looked a lot better with the factory tar in place)

That looks pretty bad ...

Also check the edge where the floor meets the longs and rear firewall. See if you can poke through.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The car is actually in Sean Molloy's shop for a rust-oration and some other work. This was the worst spot and I expect that we'll have to section in that part of the floor pan. The rear trunk should be the only other spot that needs new metal. All of this happened in the last three years while the car was outside under a cover. I believe that the carpet was what made this so bad, if the floor had been bare they would have dried much faster. So my advice is that if you have a leak and you can't fix it quickly during the rainy season, pull your carpets. You'll be ahead of the game later.

I've got a big pile of seals (thanks Mikey914) that will be installed when the car comes home.

[dlestep]

There are natural harmonics of the 914
and then there is structural borne sound propagating through sections of the
body. The floor pan sheet steel is a natural speaker over a frame that
happens to be upside-down.
To disrupt structure borne sound, a simple pad of non-conducting material
is all that is required.
I used seam sealer around where the longs meet the floor and made my
own seal between the master cylinder and the forward wall allowing only the
shaft to protude, to eliminate as much water intrusion as I can.
On the floor, I am using 1/4 inch Solid Rubber sheeting so I can keep the
floor clean and eliminate scratching of the surfaces. It also eliminates the
transmission of sound from the floor pan surface. It is one piece and is cut
to the shape of the floor, from long to center hump, and from cross bar to
forward wall.
The rubber sheeting is dense and has weight and doesn't require adhesives.
It also doesn't lift or move in use, but can easily be removed when cleaning.
I live in Florida, I hate sand and leaves, and I am constantly cleaning the floors.

[914werke]

EDIT I am using 1/4 inch Solid Rubber sheeting It is one piece and is cut
to the shape of the floor, from long to center hump, and from cross bar to
forward wall.

Interesting idea. Where did you get the material?

[dlestep]

EDIT I am using 1/4 inch Solid Rubber sheeting It is one piece and is cut
to the shape of the floor, from long to center hump, and from cross bar to
forward wall.

Interesting idea. Where did you get the material?

Any rubber distributor...in my area that would be Reller Rubber
in your area, try www.intlbeltandrubber.com
or Seattle Rubber Sheet

[JRust]

Okay I am almost there cleaning up the floor. I also tested the bedliner on a spare rocker that had issues. I will not be using the bedliner (yes I know Andy you are right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) ) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I was hoping for something a little smoother. I really don't like the texture of it. I think I am just going to get it all cleaned up. Then Prime & paint it. I'm leaning more towards a sound deadener that will come out easy like the floor mats. I kind of like the idea of rubber sheeting cut to fit.

[JRust]

Spent a little more time last night. Got the passenger side all cleaned up. Did a quick coat of primer just to protect the metal. I also picked up another type of bedliner I am testing out. Looks much smoother than the last one. I'll see how it looks tonight. If it is smooth & the paint bonds well to it. I will use it some. I'm not holding my breath after the last product though.

The primer wasn't dry obviously. Also it is far from done. The front passenger pan is about ready to shoot. I've got a just a little more glue to get off by the foot pad. I've got to tape everything off so I don't get overspray on my car. I also noticed the rear window really didn't seal that great. I am going to pull it & order some butyl tape to reinstall.

[sixaddict]

The only way to varify good metal is strip is off tar. I use heat gun ....then paint with Bejamin Moore Iron clad then tar from AA then body color. A pain but comes close to original. Why B Moore ..because John Paterek porsche specialst would not comment on por15 and the only way to coat it with color is while still tacky or it won't bond. He also suggested Rustoleum damp proof primer ..You will not find it at ACE Hwd

One difficuly...Installing new tar ( which paterek does not recommend) I tried heat gun to mold it to depressions in floor pan...Had to work it in but not fun ..Anybody have idea for this...Have done two and ready to do another car right now. Car would probably go faster without weight and as someone said car is hardly quiet
Thanks
Terry