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> How hot does your longitutinal get, considering running oil lines inside long for a six
Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 07:34 PM
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Hot warm or nothing?
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Racing916
post Nov 15 2011, 07:37 PM
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Not to bad, I have never noticed it, The hard part is getting the heater air ducting torn out.
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 15 2011, 07:51 PM
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I'm running water lines for my heater in the longs. I do not notice any temp increase on the longs. I pulled them inside the paper heater tube.
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SirAndy
post Nov 15 2011, 07:51 PM
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If i had to do it again, i'd run them outside and cut through the front portion of the long (make a nice box) and run them through the channel under the gas tank.

That way, you can keep the heater mufflers if you ever need them plus the oil gets more cooling running on the outside.

Whatever you do, don't run them on the inside. Because if you do, your GF will kill you after your first roadtrip.
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 15 2011, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 15 2011, 06:51 PM) *

Whatever you do, don't run them on the inside. Because if you do, your GF will kill you after your first roadtrip.
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I ran my oil cooler lines under my outer rocker panel. I have a hole in the lower left side firewall, in the front they go through the existing opening in the front fender well.
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Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 08:06 PM
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Is it on your side or passenger? You took the ducting out? I was figuring on running it all the way through from the engine compartment through the long, then straight up at the end of the long (I would make an aluminum tube up into the front trunk where the flex tube was) I would then send them down between the frame and the gas tank. Then forward through part of the bulk head.
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 15 2011, 08:11 PM
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I left the tube in place in the long. I removed the flex tube up front and run the lines up into the tank area. Mine is on the drivers side. Either side would work the same. I used an electrician's fish tape to "fish" into the tube and pull the lines forward.
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Mike Bellis
post Nov 15 2011, 08:13 PM
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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Nov 15 2011, 07:11 PM) *

I left the tube in place in the long. I removed the flex tube up front and run the lines up into the tank area. Mine is on the drivers side. Either side would work the same. I used an electrician's fish tape to "fish" into the tube and pull the lines forward.

Let me add that you should cap off the area around the hoses at the rear tube entry. This will stop engine smells getting into the cabin.
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GeorgeRud
post Nov 15 2011, 08:13 PM
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I ran mine along the passenger side outside longitudinal using -12 braided line, and it was quite easy. That way you can still keep the heater tubes intact if you plan to run heat exchangers at some time.

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Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 08:47 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 15 2011, 05:51 PM) *

If i had to do it again, Because if you do, your GF will kill you after your first roadtrip.
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You might have to do them again! Are you still happy with that Parker hose system?
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SirAndy
post Nov 15 2011, 09:03 PM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 15 2011, 06:47 PM) *
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) You might have to do them again! Are you still happy with that Parker hose system?

The hoses work great!

It's just a lot of radiant heat coming off those lines. My passengers are getting slowly cooked on longer trips ...
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Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 09:06 PM
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Andy, I'm not sure of your future routing you described. Would they go into the front fender? Is that where you'd build a box?
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SirAndy
post Nov 15 2011, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 15 2011, 07:06 PM) *

Andy, I'm not sure of your future routing you described. Would they go into the front fender? Is that where you'd build a box?

Nope. I'll be running the lines along the outside of the long, under the rocker covers and then go inside the passenger cabin right before the end of the long.
The lines will exit the long on the inside under the outlet for the heater tube, run along the inside of the fender well and into the same channel under the tank i'm using right now.

That way, the lines will only be exposed on the inside for about 12" or so.

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Plus, the lines are not exposed to the wheels in the fender well ...
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Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 11:20 PM
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I see now. I like that idea. Were you going to make a cover for them inside? Do you think that would help keep temps down? What if you ran them inside the fenderwell, then into that arch with an opening through in the fenderwell? Then make a cover plate to protect the exposed hose in the fenderwell.
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Krieger
post Nov 15 2011, 11:31 PM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 15 2011, 09:20 PM) *

What if you ran them inside the fenderwell, then into that arch with an opening through in the fenderwell? Then make a cover plate to protect the exposed hose in the fenderwell.


Scratch that idea. I just went out to my car and looked. You would probably have an issue with the tire rubbing.
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moparrob
post Nov 15 2011, 11:41 PM
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I like that idea. I need to run mine as well and have been agonizing on how to do it.

I think my route will be under the outside rocker covers and up into the fender well (with a sheet metal cover), then under the gas tank through the firewall along the side of the trunk to the cooler.

I bought some cool dual hose mounting brackets for under the rockers from McMaster Carr, which hold the -10 hose along the longitudinals.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images1.mcmaster.com-11663-1321422081.1.png)
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rwilner
post Nov 16 2011, 06:39 AM
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PO ran hoses to my front mounted oil cooler through the pass side long. He came out of the long and into the front trunk in the same way SirAndy described.

Works great but you lose heat on that side of the car. At some point soon I plan to re-run them under the pass side rocker cover (similar to the way the gas vapor recovery lines are run on the driver's side).
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pcar916
post Nov 16 2011, 08:05 AM
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I ran my -12AN lines through the passenger-side heater tube. that gave me two options for heat not related to that tube.

1. T-off a smaller, full-flow oil cooler into a fan box upstream of the main cooler in the front trunk... or do what I did

2. Box off a little of my main cooler and route fan-assisted hoses back into the factory heat pickups and use the stock heat/defrost controls.

I only do this in the fall. When I don't need the defrost/heat any longer, I just remove the entire system and store it until the weather gets cold again. Several special-case things are important here.

This works for me because my 3.6L engine doesn't have the factory oil cooler behind cylinder #6 like earlier engines, and relies completely on external cooling. I have both a main cooler and a smaller cooler in the same liquid circuit as the earlier factory cooler (sandwich adapter). BTU's are ejected at the rear of the car.

I have a separate switch to regulate the marine bilge heater fan that pushes heat into the standard inlets all of you use. It's a switch off of the 914 AC unit, but that's just because I haven't installed the pulse-width speed controller yet. That'll more elegant but other stuff is more important right now.
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larryM
post Nov 16 2011, 12:36 PM
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that's the way the euro racing GT's were done

a crude "cover" was used over the lines where they went thru, under where you probably now have your footrest

and NO - they don't get hot enuf to notice - but if you used copper water pipes (not soft tubing) intsead of rubber you would have the equivalent of a 911 trombone oil cooler

theoretically you could hook em up to a "heater core" instead of the front cooler

the VW bug guys have had a kit to feed copper oil lines into the longitudinal heater duct for many years - it is not a new idea

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QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Nov 15 2011, 05:55 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 15 2011, 06:51 PM) *


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I ran my oil cooler lines under my outer rocker panel. I have a hole in the lower left side firewall, in the front they go through the existing opening in the front fender well.

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yeahmag
post Nov 16 2011, 12:57 PM
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What is the "Parker" hose you are using and what are it's benefits?
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