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> bearing inspection, how do these look?
SirAndy
post Jan 2 2012, 09:03 PM
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This is hurting my eyes! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Find the macro button on your camera, will 'ya?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Cool914
post Jan 2 2012, 09:08 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jan 2 2012, 07:03 PM) *

This is hurting my eyes! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Find the macro button on your camera, will 'ya?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


Sorry. Hmm, maybe I shouldn't be trying to rebuild an engine when I can't figure out a camera.....
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malcolm2
post Jan 2 2012, 09:25 PM
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All those bearings look brand new compared to mine.

Attached Image

And my cam bearings reminded me of an ant farm.

Your in now, you should do as much as your budget allows.
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Cool914
post Jan 2 2012, 09:28 PM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 2 2012, 07:25 PM) *

All those bearings look brand new compared to mine.

Attached Image

And my cam bearings reminded me of an ant farm.

Your in now, you should do as much as your budget allows.


Yikes, that is ugly. Mine did fit nice and tight as you can see by the marks on the center main from my pliers.
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mrholland2
post Jan 2 2012, 10:33 PM
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QUOTE(Cool914 @ Nov 28 2011, 04:02 PM) *

Do I need a new clutch disc?
Seriously though, do I need a new pressure plate, is it normal to have a little surface rust on there after sitting for awhile, will it just come off after some normal use, do I need to sand it off, or do I need to scrap it?
[attachmentid=284
747]


Replace the whole clutch..pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing. How long ago was the rebuild? 90K? 120K? I can't imagine rebuilding the engine and not replacing the clutch.
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messix
post Jan 2 2012, 10:53 PM
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that whole mess is ugly, rebuilt when?

and you are a master at andy's photo method of photography (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Cool914
post Jan 2 2012, 11:14 PM
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I don't have any history on the engine, was told when I bought it that it was rebuilt recently, but looks like it was probably just "pressure washed and painted". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
I will be replacing the clutch disc obviously, I was just asking about the pressure plate since it didnt look bad at first glance.
Yes, I will try an electron microscope photo next time for SirAndy.

Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface?
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76-914
post Jan 3 2012, 09:32 AM
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Andy is just jazzing you about the photo's. A classic case of "the pot calling the kettle black". Andy is known for his blurry pic's.
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Cool914
post Jan 3 2012, 09:49 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jan 3 2012, 07:32 AM) *

Andy is just jazzing you about the photo's. A classic case of "the pot calling the kettle black". Andy is known for his blurry pic's.

Y ah I figured
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underthetire
post Jan 3 2012, 10:20 AM
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This one looks toast for sure..


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Cool914
post Jan 3 2012, 10:29 AM
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QUOTE(underthetire @ Jan 3 2012, 08:20 AM) *

This one looks toast for sure..

That was from my pliers when I pulled them out.
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malcolm2
post Jan 3 2012, 10:54 AM
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QUOTE(Cool914 @ Jan 2 2012, 11:14 PM) *

I don't have any history on the engine, was told when I bought it that it was rebuilt recently, but looks like it was probably just "pressure washed and painted". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)
I will be replacing the clutch disc obviously, I was just asking about the pressure plate since it didnt look bad at first glance.
Yes, I will try an electron microscope photo next time for SirAndy.

Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface?


I went thru the same type questions about my case. "Do I need to Align Bore, should I Deck the case?" And I had no local Type 4 machine shop. A type 1 guy took a look but did not measure anything. He noted this on mine: With the case split, look at the mating surfaces above and below the bearing. The round areas where the thru bolts go. The areas around the middle bearing (#2?) were very smooth, like there had been movement. the other bearing areas still had machine marks from the factory. I finally found a small shop to measure for me. Turns out the case bore was straight. Probably need to find a type 4 or VW shop to measure stuff for you.
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malcolm2
post Jan 3 2012, 11:04 AM
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QUOTE(Cool914 @ Jan 2 2012, 11:14 PM) *


Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface?


Len gave me a shade tree trick. Take the circle bearing without the thrust, #3 i think. Put it into each of the three bearing locations in each case 1/2. If if fits nice and tight, and you see no light under or around it, you are doing pretty good. Also you can put #1 and #4 (or #3) bearing back in leaving the middle out. place the crank in each case half and use a dial gauge placed on the the crank and turn the crank and watch the gauge. Harbor Freight has a dial guage and a stand for pretty cheap. That checks for a bent crank. 3rdly, mock up your crank and bearings with alittle oil on the bearing and torque up the case, stick you hands in and try to turn the crank. you should get 360 degrees of easy spinning. these are just warm and fuzzy ways to see what is up. Try to find a type 4 shop.

BTW from your bearing pictures, I think the PO told you the truth. Those are fairly fresh bearings.

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Valy
post Jan 3 2012, 04:47 PM
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You need new bearings. All of them for sure.
You might need an align-bore but measurement is the only way to say for sure.
Check your crank as well.
After you have the crack and journal measurements, start looking for bearings.
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Jeff Hail
post Jan 3 2012, 08:22 PM
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The more I look the more I see.

May not be anything.


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Cool914
post Jan 3 2012, 09:38 PM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Jan 3 2012, 09:04 AM) *

QUOTE(Cool914 @ Jan 2 2012, 11:14 PM) *


Anyone have any comments on the hammering of the bearing number transfer onto the case bearing surface?


Len gave me a shade tree trick. Take the circle bearing without the thrust, #3 i think. Put it into each of the three bearing locations in each case 1/2. If if fits nice and tight, and you see no light under or around it, you are doing pretty good. Also you can put #1 and #4 (or #3) bearing back in leaving the middle out. place the crank in each case half and use a dial gauge placed on the the crank and turn the crank and watch the gauge. Harbor Freight has a dial guage and a stand for pretty cheap. That checks for a bent crank. 3rdly, mock up your crank and bearings with alittle oil on the bearing and torque up the case, stick you hands in and try to turn the crank. you should get 360 degrees of easy spinning. these are just warm and fuzzy ways to see what is up. Try to find a type 4 shop.

BTW from your bearing pictures, I think the PO told you the truth. Those are fairly fresh bearings.


Thanks, I will try those tips. I checked the machine surface on at the main and on one of the sides the machining is there while on the other it is smooth in some areas, same side where those bearing number imprints were, interesting. I will find a shop around or ship it, just want to check it out on my own first so I have an idea of where I am at.
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Cool914
post Jan 3 2012, 09:40 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Jan 3 2012, 06:22 PM) *

The more I look the more I see.

May not be anything.


Thanks for checking.I looked more closely there and it seems like it is just raised seam areas from the casting.
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